Heart with pepper, soul with garlic. ~ Russian proverb

What would our culinary creations be without the pretty pepper? An essential ingredient in my summer edible landscapes, these beauties can be sweet or hot, small or large, and very, very colorful – flowers, fruit and leaves!

Sweet bells growing among tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce and flowers at Four Daughters Kitchen in Manhattan Beach

Family: Solanaceae
Genus: Capsicum Species:annuum
(REMEMBER: Since this is a plant that belongs to the Solanaceae family, use crop rotation to avoid planting in the same garden area in consecutive seasons. Other Solanaceae family vegetables, fruits and flowers includes: potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, sweet peppers, chili… peppers (but not black pepper), tobacco and petunias.

CLIMATIC REQUIREMENTS

Being a tropical plant, peppers thrive best when temperatures are warm. Having said that, planting should not be done until the danger of frost is past in the spring. Ideal
temperatures are 70 to 80 degrees F during the day, and 60 to 70 degrees F at night.

Extremely high temperatures (90 degrees F or above) during
flowering often results in blossom drop. Fruit that set when temperatures average
above 80 degrees F may be small and poorly shaped due to heat injury to
the blossoms. Temperatures below 60 degrees F at night will also result in
blossom drop.

A shortage of water at bloom time can also result in
blossom drop or failure to set fruit. Usually, the plants set
satisfactory crops when temperatures are between 65 and 80 degrees F
and the soil is well-supplied with moisture. Avoid a soggy, water-logged soil
condition when growing peppers.

For centuries, growers have handed down methods to increase chilis pungency through slightly drought stressing plants after fruit set. Does this work? There has been some research done on this recently from New Mexico State University, College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences. Read more here: http://www.kasa.com/dpps/local_guide/local_guide_02/drought-stress-on-chile-draws-research_4649498. My experience has been that different varieties respond differently. I find fairly predictable responses from drought stress in Jalapenos and Serranos.

For such a small chile, it packs an incredibly fiery punch. Thai chiles range in color from red to green when fully mature. They are often used in Asian curries. Thai peppers should be used sparingly.

SOIL REQUIREMENTS

Pepper plants grow best in warm, well-drained soils of moderate fertility and good tilth. The plants are not particularly sensitive
to soil acidity, but best results are obtained in the 6.0 to 6.8 pH
range. Adjust soil fertility as indicated by soil test results.
Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your local
Cooperative Extension office. Organic fertilizers of a 1-2-2 ratio, such as
5-10-10 or 8-16-16 are often used for growing peppers.

A NOTE ABOUT BUYING NURSERY TRANSPLANTS

If you are buying transplants at a local garden center, select stocky, sturdy plants that have 3-5 sets
of true leaves. Although it’s tempting…avoid plants that already have flowers and fruit.

If you have no choice, be sure to remove the flowers before transplanting. This will signal the plant to shift its energy from it developing fruit to developing new roots. Water plants
thoroughly after transplanting. Avoid planting under conditions that will stunt the plants and lead to poor production, such as cold weather, lack of sufficient soil moisture, or lack of sufficient fertilizer.

Fish Peppers (Capsicum annum) were used to season fish and shellfish in the African-American communities around Baltimore and Philadelphia back in the 1930's and 1940's.

CULTURAL PRACTICES

If using traditional row planting scheme, space plants 18 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart. After the plants are well established, apply a mulch to conserve soil moisture, prevent soil compaction and help suppress weed growth. Once fruits have begun to set, an additional sidedressing of fertilizer will help promote greater plant productivity.
Control weeds – sorry guys – by hand-pulling. The disease can be reduced by proper spacing for air flow and by watering early in the day so leaves
dry well before evening. The best irrigation for veggie gardens is drip or by using soaker hoses.

PEST & DISEASE CONTROL

Check with your local Cooperative Extension for pest & disease control recommendations in your area (link to a National Database of IPM sites is below). Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.peppers.html. Aphids should be controlled as they may carry viral diseases that can affect peppers.

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop…gardeners are, above all else, patient. Unless you refuse to use any pesticides (we strive for this – organic or not), they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia) http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C853/C853.htm

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region: http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

HARVESTING AND STORAGE

Peppers are normally harvested in the immature green stage (but full size) for use in relishes, salads, for stuffing, and for flavor in many cooked dishes. However, if they are allowed to ripen on the plant they will be sweeter and higher in vitamin content. Other peppers are usually harvested at full maturity.
Be careful when breaking the peppers from the plants, as the branches are often
brittle. Hand clippers or pruners can be used to cut peppers from the plant to avoid breaking the stem. The number of peppers perplant varies with the variety. Bell pepper plants may produce 6 to 8 or more fruit per plant. In general, peppers have short storage life of only one to two weeks. Cool, moist conditions (45 to 50 degrees F) and 85 to 90 percent relative humidity are the ideal storage conditions for peppers.

Source: Ohio State Univ. Coop Ext, Cornell Univ Coop Ext

And, to do the pepper justice…a recipe video on the making of the Chili Pineapple Margarita from our friends at thedrinkchef.com

“I do not like broccoli. And I haven’t liked it since I was a little kid and my mother made me eat it. And I’m President of the United States and I’m not going to eat any more broccoli.”
George H. W. Bush

Spotlight Edible of the Day: Broccoli

Besides that presidential dig some years back, broccoli is doing just fine, thank you very much! Consumption of broccoli has shot up in the last couple of decades. A third of American households are eating it at least once every two weeks, up 33 percent since that infamous quote! And since a Georgetown University study in 2011 found that isothiocyanates (ITCs) found in broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables caused cancer cells to die, well, let’s just say broccoli is no longer the awkward kid no one talks to at the party!

Family – Brassica oleracea var. italica. Cole crops are a group of veggies that belong to the mustard family – Brassicaceae (previously known as Cruciferae). The varieties included in this family are Broccoli (italica), Cauliflower (botrytis), Cabbage (capitat, tuba and sabauda), Brussel Sprouts (gemmifera), Kale and Collards (acephala) and Kohlrabi (gongyloides). Depending on the variety, these cool season crops may be herbaceous annuals, biennials or perennials.

Brassica oleracea var. italica, one of the oldest of the cole crops, originated in Europe and Asia and claim wild cabbage as their ancester. Broccoli comes in two types: sprouting (small shoots) and heading (one large head).

CLIMATE, SOIL AND CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS

Climatic Requirements – Cole crops are cool weather vegetables, growing best when daytime temperatures are between 65 and 80 F and planted in a

http://www.Naturalhealthyconcepts.com (click on image to enlarge)

sunny spot. Temperatures dipping below 40 F will cause harm and possibly early bolting. In many locations, broccoli is grown as a spring and fall crop.

Soil Requirements - HGEL recommends doing a soil test before planting in a new bed and at least once every three years after that. Tests are the only way to really know what steps you need to take to make your soil great. Without one, it’s a stab in the dark and you may waste money adding amendments and fertilizers you may not need.

Although broccoli will grow in a wide variety of soils, a sandy loam is best. All of the cole crops grow well in reasonably fertile, well-drained, moist soils with plenty of added organic matter.  The pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A pH in this range will cut down on diseases that plague this crop like clubroot disease and keep nutrients available to plants. A mulch will help with soil temperature and moisture retention.

Cultural Requirements

Planting: Although many of you may have different perspectives on this, it has been my experience that both broccoli and cauliflower do best when set out as transplants rather than planted from seed. A good transplant is 5 to 6 weeks old, sturdy with good color. Older plants or those that have already formed small heads won’t yield as well as younger plants so be selective at the nursery.

Your careful soil prep and correct planting time (not too early) will ensure vigorous growth once plants are planted to prevent the flowering heads of broccoli from “buttoning”. “Buttons” are small, unusable heads on small plants stunted by insufficient or inconsistent watering practices, weeds, or insects. A few days of low temperature (35oF to 50o F) can also cause buttons to develop. Choose your planting time carefully!

If you’re planting from seed, sow seeds 1/4 inch deep space rows 24 to 36 inches apart, setting transplants or thinning seedlings 18 inches apart. In the case of cole crops, proper spacing is important for maximum crop yield.

Fertilizing: Having done a soil test before planting and adding lots of good compost, your soil should be adequately fertile come planting time. One thing to keep in mind is that Broccoli (and cole crops in general) are heavy nitrogen feeders. Nitrogen is the most mobile of the macro nutrients and is taken up quickly by heavy N feeding plants like broccoli. Synthetic N can leach out of soil very fast through irrigation and run off. HGEL ALWAYS recommends avoiding synthetic fertilizers, using only organic materials that will provide the nutrients you need to replace/replenish.

Here’s a great guide from the University of Georgia: “How to Convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic One” – http://www.caes.uga.edu/Publications/displayHTML.cfm?pk_id=7170 .  Scroll down to Table 1. Guide to the Mineral Nutrient Value of Organic Fertilizers which shows you what nutrients the listed fertilizer will replace and how fast.

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity hence making your soil more fertile naturally. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants N needs can be met via cover cropping.

Crop Rotation: Crop rotation is an important cultural practice for cole crops to avoid disease problems. Rotate crops by alternating the location of plantings with a different crop each year. Try to avoid planting plants from the same family in the same place for at least two seasons…three is better. Here is a great resource from Iowa State on crop rotation: http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1998/3-27-1998/rotateg.html

Irrigation: Cole crops do require regular watering which is especially important if your soil texture tends toward the sandy side. Remember though that over-watering can lead to many problems like disease and even attract pests. HGEL always prefers a drip or micro-spray system as this cuts down water splashing and excessive leaf wetting which helps to avoid water transmitted fungal diseases like powdery mildew and blight. It also conserves water.

Photo via http://gourmandeinthekitchen.com/2012/creamy-broccoli-spinach-soup-recipe/

Weed Control and Mulching: Use shallow cultivation for weed control. Deep cultivation close to the plants will damage the root systems and reduce yield and quality. During the growing season, control weeds by mulching and hand-pulling. These strategies are the best means of control in a small planting. During the winter and spring months, periodically check the planting for the development of winter weeds that should be removed. Many organic growers apply natural mulches such as straw, leaves or compost around the plants, after they become established, to control weeds. This practice is well-worth the labor as it conserves soil moisture, attracts earthworms and eventually enriches the growing area with organic matter and nutrients.

Organic Pest/Disease Control -

Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site about some common pests and diseases of cole crops: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.cole-crops.html

Pest Management Pests/Insects: Pest problems will vary depending on where you’re gardening.

Flea beetles and root maggots can cause serious damage to cole crops, chewing away the roots of young seedlings so they wilt and die. Covering beds or rows with floating row covers of spun-bonded polyester for the first month of more of growth will prevent attacks by both these pests.

The larval stages of several different species of moths can also cause serious damage. Row covers left on throughout the growing season, or regular applications of Bt (Bacillus thuriengiensis), an organic bacterial poison that kills only caterpillars, will control cabbage worms of all species. http://www.planetnatural.com/site/safer-dust.html.

Disease Management: To control fungal and soilborne bacterial diseases, rotate your planting site (see above) and irrigate correctly.

Some common diseases…

Downy mildew caused by Peronospora parasitica is the major fungal disease in broccoli. University research has shown that foliage can suffer a substantial amount of mildew lesions without affecting yield or quality. Mildew-tolerant varieties are available.

Black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) occurs occasionally in Imperial County. It is usually introduced to a farm through infected seed or transplants. Field conditions are not usually conducive for development of this disease in the desert. Use disease-free planting material.

Cladosporium sp. are often surface contaminants on broccoli heads especially during rainy periods or when there is heavy morning dew.

Clubroot is a soil-borne disease causing stunted plants which wilt even in moist soil. Raise the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 if this disease is a problem. AGAIN – practice rotation!

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

• Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?
• Is there a nutrient imbalance?
• Is the soil too wet or too dry?
• Has a good crop rotation been followed?
• Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.) http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western. Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region: http://www.ipmcenters.org/

http://ucanr.org/freepubs/docs/7251.pdf

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

Harvest/Storage Harvest:

Broccoli heads are removed by hand by snapping the stem. Broccoli requires rapid cooling to insure preservation of quality. Harvested heads should be taken to the cooler immediately.

“If bunched broccoli is stored at 32°F with a relative humidity of 90-95 percent, it should have a 10-14 day shelf life. At higher temperatures the shelf life will decrease drastically. Storage at 50°F, for example, will reduce the shelf life to 5 days. Excessive storage time will cause yellowing and softening of the tissue and beads. Off-flavor and bad odor may also develop.Broccoli should never be stored with ethylene sources such as ripening melons, avocados, bananas, apples, or pears. Exposure to ethylene will accelerate the yellowing of beads.” Keith S. Mayberry, Farm Advisor, U.C. Cooperative Extension, Imperial County.

Photo via gourmandeinthekitchen.com

Recipe: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/parmesan-roasted-broccoli-recipe/index.html

http://gourmandeinthekitchen.com/2012/creamy-broccoli-spinach-soup-recipe/

Vaniglia Sanguigno citrus - Vanilla Blood Orange

Vaniglia Sanguigno

Translated it’s “Vanilla Blood” and it does have a slight vanilla taste that makes this Blood worth a look (and taste). This is an acidless blood orange and is entirely different from any citrus I’ve tasted!  I had my first bite last month at International Garden Center in El Segundo, California. Nursery manager, Deno Soria explained that over the last couple of years the Vanilla Blood was just beginning to be introduced more widely to the commercial market here. Lucky us!

Having slightly smaller fruit than the other Bloods, larger seeds, a thinner rind and a lighter reddish pink interior, many thought this variety would be slow to ‘catch on’ with we home growers….until we tasted it!  They are strongly addicting. This is unfortunate because you can’t get them in the markets, so you’re just going to have to grow yourself, but we’re up for that, right?  Strictly speaking, it isn’t a true blood orange. It’s coloring agent is lycopene, instead of anthocyanins found in most oranges. Lycopene is what gives grapefruits and Cara Cara Orange, the pink navel variety their color.

That day in the nursery, Deno only gave me one off the little tree, but I can honestly tell you that I was tempted to sneak back for more! The wonderful thing about the Vaniglia Sanguigno is that the fruit can ripen as early as fall in climates with mild winters and warm summers.  They can also hold nicely on the tree well into spring and on the counter forever.

http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/vainiglia.html

Palestine Sweet Lime

Palestine Sweet Lime

Deno introduced me to this wonder that same day. “Sweet Lime”  has a sweet (edible) as opposed to a sour rind. It is of Middle Eastern derivation, hence the name. This variety’s fruit will turn deep gold, almost light orange when fully ripe. The grower reports that, like the Vanilla Blood, it also can hold on the counter for a couple of months after picking. In fact, it will become even sweeter and more flavorful. This variety can bear very heavily so be ready with your recipes! In the garden, it tends towards a spreading habit so plan accordingly.

Sweet limes aren’t true limes at all, but occupies a strange no-man’s land of a hybrid grouping that is from the coupling of a sour orange with a citron. It does tolerate a light freeze. A delicious and pucker-free bite told me that I’d found two more stars for my cocktail garden list!  http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/palestine.html

Enjoy!

If you need a general primer on the care and feeding of citrus (or anything in your backyard orchard), check out

University of CA’s THE BACKYARD ORCHARD

West Virginia University’s HOME ORCHARD MANAGEMENT

University of Arizona’s HOME ORCHARD CARE FOR MASTER GARDENERS

New Mexico State University’s PRUNING THE HOME ORCHARD

 

 

“I would desire you to eat it…if you can mock a leek, you can eat a leek”

William Shakespeare (1564-1616) King Henry V

A beautiful and ancient monocot, the leek is, as far as I’m concerned, a necessity in any serious cool season culinary garden. Certainly, there is hardly a European garden without the gorgeous blue-green stand of leeks in winter. In the U.S., however, the leek remains under-appreciated.

From the edible landscaper’s perspective, the leek provides a productive upright, structural element that broadens our design palette with its coloration (white to blue-green to dark green and even purple). From a chef’s perspective, leeks are an integral ingredient in a production garden that provides an elegant, mild, delicate flavoring to sauces, salads, soups, and a myriad of other dishes.

Genus: Allium. Alliums (garlic, leek, onion, scallion & shallot) are a genus of plants that have provided flavorful seasoning in food for thousands of years.  Onions and garlic were two of the most important crops consumed in ancient Egypt.  Islamic legend has it that when Satan left the Garden of Eden after the fall of man, garlic sprang up where his left foot stepped, and onions grew where his right foot was placed.

Family: Alliaceae  (subfamily Allioideae of Amaryllidaceae)

Species: Allium ampeloprasum (porrum) – which includes leeks, elephant garlic

A bit of botantical history –

The leek is a biennial onion relative that is grown as an annual for its long, thick stem, the white to pale green part of which is used as a staple in the home and professional kitchen. The modern leek is related to the wild leek of the Mediterranean and the Canary Islands, Madeira, and the Azores. While leeks have long been a staple winter vegetable of Northern Europe, they are decidedly unsung and underappreciated in the U.S.  Let’s change that!

Medicinal qualities –

All of the foods in the Allium family are full of antioxidants and phytonutrients. Organic sulfuric compounds give these plants their unique piquant flavors and make them highly regenerative; the more pungent the flavor, the more powerful the health benefits. Garlic and scallions, along with onions, leeks, chives and shallots, are rich in flavonols (substances in plants that have been shown to have anti-tumor effects). New research from China confirms that eating vegetables from the allium group can reduce the risk of prostate cancer.  Throughout the history of medicine, leeks have been known to clean your arteries and retard the growth of viruses, yeasts, ferments and other pathogenic organisms. They are also full of manganese, Vitamin C, and B6. They do not have the same antibacterial properties of garlic, but they do have similar cancer fighting benefits and they stabilize blood sugar much like onions. Leeks are also high in iron and folate. See the GroEdibles blog “The Pharmacy in Your Garden – The Hidden Medicinal History of Your Favorite Plants”.

Varieties:

I love leeks. These three key words from UCCE, Stanislaus County sums them up perfectly:

• Stalwart—Cold tolerant, overwintering through the snows of winter unharmed.
• Long—Tall; some winter varieties achieve the same dimensions as a baseball bat. In fact, leeks, unlike most vegetables, achieve full flavor and ideal texture as they size up. A full-size, mature leek eclipses a young baby leek in both categories.
• Slow and steady—While many books and catalogs I have seen indicate 4–8 weeks from seeding to transplant and 50–100 days from transplanting to maturity, 10–12 weeks from seed to transplant and 90–120, or even 180 days from transplanting to harvest is the norm in my experience.

There are two basic types of leeks: summer types (long shanked—bulbless) and winter types (short shanked—slight bulbing).

Summer varieties

Summer varieties feature taller plants with light- to mid-green foliage, almost to the point of appearing nitrogen deficient. The shanks are long (8–12 inches) and self-blanching. They are “quicker” to maturation (90–100 days; all dates are from transplants) than winter types and have a lighter, slightly milder taste. Summer types are more heat tolerant and less cold hardy than winter varieties. They are generally grown spring to fall, although in mild winter areas (like parts of So. Cal.) they are overwintered.

Kilma  (90 days) – Fast-growing summer leek with 10–12-inch shanks. Only tolerates slight frosts.

King Richard and Titan (90-100 days from transplant) – Virtually indistinguishable from one another. One of the earliest-maturing varieties. Long (10–12 inch) self-blanching shanks. Light green foliage. Light, sweet texture and taste. More heat tolerant than any other variety. Some cold tolerance (35˚–32˚F), but not truly winter hardy. Will deteriorate quickly with extensive winter rains.

Lincoln – Often used for baby leeks or bunching, leaves similar to King Richard.

Blue Solaize (100-120 days from transplant) – This is a beautiful French heirloom, truly blue-colored leaves that turn violet after a cold spell. Very large, 15-20″ stalks, sweet medium-long shaft, extremely hardy. Good for short-season areas and winter harvest.

Winter varieties

Winter varieties possess dark, almost blue-green foliage with shorter, squat plants. They are slower to mature (120 –180 days) and the shanks are fatter, growing 3–4 inches across, often with some basal bulbing. Even with hilling there is less blanched, succulent edible portion of the stem. They offer a richer, meatier taste and texture. Winter types feature minimal heat tolerance and excellent cold tolerance for gardeners dealing with temperatures consistently in the teens.

American Flag (130 days) — Pure white blanched stems with mild sweet flavor and good winter hardiness.

Blue De Solaise (105 days) – Old French variety with bluegreen to almost blue foliage tinged with red. Extremely cold hardy with fat, succulent shanks.

Broad London (120 days) – Very squat, short (4–6 inch) shanked, sweet, creamy-textured old variety. Some heat tolerance and moderate cold tolerance.

Giant Musselburg – Old German variety, 150 days to maturation, pure white, sweet, tender, short shank, dark green foliage.

Unfortunately, with rare exceptions, U.S. seed catalogs usually offer only one to three varieties of leeks.  Northern European seed companies usually feature greater varietal diversity, types and varieties. Here are some U.S. seed companies that seem to carry the rarer leek varieties: Irish Eyes, Heirloom Seeds, Sustainable Seed Co., Cherry Gal, Seed Savers

Until the 1990s all leeks were open pollinated (OP) varieties, not proprietary F1 hybrids with corporate ownership. New methods have made hybridizing them possible, so now many seed catalogs offer both.

A word about open pollinated (OP)  v. hybrid: It is, of course, a personal choice but HGEL urges its clients to use open pollinated or heirloom seeds whenever possible. There are many instances when a hybrid choice is preferred (increased vigor or disease resistance for a challenging garden site or beginner gardener). I have my own hybrid favorites but my choice is to use open pollinated (OP) as often as I can.

Open pollinated seeds are pollinated by wind or bees and their traits are somewhat fixed within an exceptable range of variability. Heirloom seeds have been passed down for many years and have been preserved and kept true. The heirloom usually yields a superior product regarding taste, color, flavor and texture; all qualities that are of paramount importance to a commercial or home edible garden grower. As long as there is no cross pollination, you can harvest the seeds for next year and expect to get similar results. Hybrids result from a deliberate cross between two inbred lines. They are becoming increasingly popular because they usually are more disease resistant and vigorous than open-pollinated varieties.  Seed saved from hybrids produces many different plant types and are not true to the parent plant which may be a disappointment for gardener who has unknowingly saved and planted hybrid seed. Seeds saved from hybrids usually do not produce the desired results.  

To be sure, check the package to see if it says “F1 hybrid.” F2 plants are not hybrids and lend themselves to seed saving.  Most importantly, however, using open pollinated or heirloom seeds will insure the continuation of our seed source, increase sustainability and support our smaller seed companies.

Climatic Requirements:

Along with kale, leeks are the most cold-tolerant of vegetables. If established in late summer they can overwinter through the frozen ground and snow pack. In fact, the colder the temperature, the sweeter the taste. On the other end of the spectrum, they will survive, but are not at all fond of temperatures consistently above 85˚F.

Soil Requirements:

All alliums are shallow-rooted crops that tolerate a wide variety of soil textures, however, dense clay soil or rocks can hinder growth and development.  Prepare most garden beds with at least 2 inches of compost mixed into the soil to create ideal conditions for alliums. A soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is optimum.

Cultural Practices:

Blanching

Hill or mound soil up around the lower parts of the stem (shank) to “blanch” or make white that portion of the shank. This produces a larger, more succulent useable area of the plant. Do this several times during the season as the plant grows taller. Doing it heavily just once tends to rot the shank.

Irrigation

When watering alliums, keep garden soil moist, but not soggy.  Allow it to dry out somewhat between watering.  Avoid wetting the plant when applying water in order to avoid disease and pests. If possible, irrigate with drip lines, or soaker hoses. If using overhead (sprinkler) irrigation, do it in the morning so the plants dry quickly as the day warms.

Weed control

Weed control is important. None of the alliums like competition, so remove any weeds growing in your garden bed.  Weed carefully between the bulbs, as they are easily bruised.   Because leeks are shallow-rooted, hand pulling is recommended in lieu of using tools. Cultivate lightly to avoid root damage. Applying organic material as mulch can provide a temporary weed barrier adding nutrients to the soil as it degrades.

Planting Requirements and Propagation

Leeks are better as transplants versus direct sowing. A transplantable seedling (10–12 weeks old, 1/4-inch stem diameter) can be raised in intensively broadcast sown flats or nursery beds. Because they are monocots with a vigorous fibrous root system and a narrow, waxy leaf surface, leek transplants can be barerooted with minimal transplant shock.  Grow leeks, which can take up to five months to mature, like long-season onions.

Growing alliums from seed takes patience and persistence (c’mon – we’ve got plenty of that…we’re gardeners after all!).  Germination can be a difficult proposition as seedlings grow slowly and are very sensitive to competitive weeds.  Plant seeds in containers and transplant seedlings into your garden, or plant seeds directly into your garden bed. Sow seeds 1/2” deep, 1/2” apart in rows 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart.  Seeds are tiny, so if you can’t space them apart, sprinkle them along the row and then thin later (if you’re like me, you do NOT like to thin!).  The size you choose to harvest your leeks will determine your spacing: more space in between plants that your intend to grow to a 3-4″ diameter. In my small space gardens and combined with the fact that most of my chefs prefer their leeks at the 1-2″ diameter size, I can get away with planting mine closer together.

Fertilization

Alliums grown in compost enriched soil will not need additional fertilizer. If you wish to fertilize, use a liquid kelp or balanced fertilizer 3 weeks after planting.  Stop fertilizing 6-7 weeks before harvest.



Cornell University Cooperative Extension, "Fertilizing Garden Soil"

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil before planting and seasonally you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL advises, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants nitrogen needs can be met via cover cropping.  Before applying amendment or fertilizer it is always a good idea to do a soil test so that you know exactly what is in or isn’t in your soil. Contact your local County Extension office for information on soil testing. Fertilizer may be either broadcast and worked into the soil before planting time or side dressed two inches to the side and three inches below the seed at the time of planting.

The Quick and Easy Guide to Organic Fertilizers – Cornell University Cooperative Extension

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia)

Pest/Disease Control:

Pests & Disease

Leeks are virtually bulletproof when it comes to pest and disease problems.

Follow this link for some things to watch for: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/onions.html

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop. Unless gardeners refuse to use any pesticides, they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, in the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region:

http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

Harvest/Storage:

Harvest

Leeks are ready for harvest when the bulb is 1” in diameter.  Don’t look for the flags (leek leaves) to turn brown as other alliums do…they stay green. Harvesting is all about size. Most of my chefs prefer to use them on the smaller size. Certainly, in my smaller gardens, harvesting them at a smaller size makes perfect sense. Use a spading fork to loosen the ground around the leeks, then gently pull them from the garden.  Leeks will last longer if left in the ground until ready for use.

Storage

Once harvested, they can be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Favorite Recipes

Fine Cooking

AllRecipes.com

101Cookbooks.com

Epicurious.com

How to Clean Leeks

]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2012/03/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-leeks/feed/ 5 http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-artichoke/ http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-artichoke/#comments Sun, 26 Feb 2012 08:59:03 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=954 “Remind me to tell you about the time I looked into the heart of an artichoke.”


Bette Davis as Margo Channing in ‘All About Eve’ (1950)



Family: Cynara scolymus. The artichoke is a member of the milk thistle family and is thought to be native to Arabia, the Mediterranean, Iran, and Turkey.  As early as 500 BC, this vegetable was known in Egypt and Rome as an expensive specialty.  In the 18th century France, it was considered a “culinary privilege” of the aristocracy.  The historical use of the artichoke extends well beyond the realm of kitchen staple and has been used in traditional medicine for centuries as a liver and gallbladder remedy. In some cultural herbal medicine practices, leaves are used for liver and gallbladder problems, diabetes, high cholesterol, hypertension, anemia, diarrhea, fevers, ulcers, and gout. Artichokes are high in antioxidants.



The Healing Power of Rainforest Herbs by Leslie Taylor

Artichoke Varieties

Something to keep in mind: The artichoke does best in frost-free areas having cool, foggy summers. Freezing temperatures kill the buds, and hot, dry conditions destroy their tenderness.

• Green Globe and Green Globe Improved are standard commercial varieties grown in milder climates and is my favorite here in the coastal cities of Southern California.  These larger plants, with many dark green buds with large hearts, do best if plants are maintained for several years (herbaceous perennial).
• In 1991 a new hybrid globe variety, Imperial Star, became available (you can thank the horticulturists at the UC Extension Service for this one!).  It is more uniform than other varieties produced from seed, reportedly does not need as much vernalization (exposure of plants to low temperatures in order to stimulate flowering) as Green Globe, is thornless, and is primarily green, but has some purple tinting. Imperial Star is a medium sized plant, with many dark green buds with small hearts, good disease resistance and is excellent as an annual crop. This variety has performed well in a broad climate range and is currently being grown both in southern California coastal regions and in desert areas in California and Arizona.  Possible seed sources for Imperial Star include: Keithly-Williams Seeds, Contact: Jim Christopherson or Ernie Keithly, 420 Palm Avenue, PO Box 177, Holtville, CA 92250, Phone: 760-356-5533, Fax: 760-356-2409; and: Palmer Seed Co., D., 8269 S Highway 95, Yuma, AZ 85365, Phone: 520-341-8494, Fax: 520-341-8496.
• Another new variety, Emerald (D. Palmer Seed Co.), is also now available. It has been shown to perform in California in both coastal and inland valley conditions which is great news for my San Fernando Valley clients.
• Talpiot -  The Talpiot artichoke is a late season variety that originated in Israel. This strain has been bred in Spain and produces a medium sized plant with leaves that have no spines and very attractive curved edges. The Talpiot produces very uniform spherical heads and grows to a height of between 2-4 ft.
• French artichoke varieties are categorized into three groups as follows:

Brittany artichokes with large green heads (Camus de Bretagne, Camerys, Caribou). There is also a relatively new purple variety that comes from Brittany. They are so named because of its truncated, spherical shape.
Midi artichokes with violet leaves that come from the South of France (Violet de Provence, Violet de Hyères, Violet du Gapeau)
Secondary varieties classified between Camus and the purple varieties (Blanc Hyerois).

• Italian artichokes come mainly from the provinces of Puglia, Sicily, Sardinia, and Tuscany. The four main varieties are as follows:

Catanese, which are medium large, cylindrical, with closed heads and green outer leaves shading into violet.
Romanesco are large, spherical, and closed-headed, with a characteristic opening at the top, and green leaves under an opaque reddish violet colour.
Spinoso Sardo is a medium large conical shape, with a closed head and violet-green leaves that taper to a point, and with a large thorn.
Violetto di Toscana is a medium-large elliptical closed head, with violet leaves and dark green shading on the inside.

• 

  Edible arrangement for mar'sel's James Beard dinner in NYC. See the beautiful Violetta Di Romanga in the back?

  • Violetta Di Romagna – is a tender and tasty Italian heirloom artichoke with nice firm flesh. These seeds produce a large thornless plant with silvery-grey leaves and a medium sized rounded violet head of tender, fleshy bracts. This variety is grown traditionally in Northern Italy and should perform well in colder climates. When picked young this variety produces very little inedible choke compared to other heirlooms. Its spineless plants grow up to 5’ tall with silvery foliage for a dramatic statement at the back of the garden so it’s a smash with edible landscapers like me. Its purple color fades when cooked.
  • Globe artichokes can be beautiful as features in the landscape too! Some varieties include the following:

Purple Sicilian, which is a deep purple and excellent eaten raw when they are very young;
Vert de Laon, and Violetta di Chioggia, purple varieties that make excellent border plants. I included these beauties in my edible flower arrangements for the tables at mar’sel’s dinner at the James Beard House in NYC last month! Gorgeous in the garden!

Green Globe, as above;
Gros Camus de Bretagne, which is only suitable for warmer climates, but having large good tasting heads;
Purple Globe, which is hardier than the green ones, but not as tasty;

• Shorter season varieties that are more likely to flower and winter over in East Coast regions include:

Imperial Star – as above

Grande Buerre – Developed in Great Britain, this variety has spineless heads and grows up to 9 feet tall. Grown from seed.

For trial: Northern Star, developed by Peters Seed & Research, is supposed to be perennial without protection even where winter lows go below zero. It was developed by Doug Peters of Peters Seed & Research. Unfortunately, none of my research has turned up a seed source.

Violetta Di Romagna – as above

More Resources on Varieties

Here is an interesting article including a wonderful photo gallery on nine different artichoke varieties from Saveur magazine.
Here’s a great blog on Italian variety artichokes: http://theartichokeblog.com/





Always harvest your artichokes with stems (they're edible too - see recipe section for cooking tips). Courtesy of whiteonricecouple.com.

Climatic Requirements

Artichokes do best in a frost-free coastal area with cool foggy summers. In these conditions the plant receives the proper vernalization and the right conditions throughout its growing period to produce tight, tender buds for an extended period. Proper climatic conditions are extremely important in being successful in growing artichokes. This is why it is critical to find the variety of artichoke best suited for your region. I have been successful in growing Green Globe and Imperial Star artichokes on the coast of Southern California in sandy soil but I’ve also successfully grown them in the heavy clay soil and hotter summers of the San Fernando Valley. In addition to selecting the right variety, soil amendment and good site selection are key when growing in harsher climates. Though I would plant artichokes in full sun on the coast, I might select a part sun location (morning sun) in the hotter areas of the San Fernando Valley.



Considered a cool-season crop, they grow best at a 75°F daytime temperature mean with 55°F nighttime temperatures. They have an effective adaptive range of 45° to 85°F.  As noted above, Emerald appears to require very little vernalization.



In some regions where hotter mid-summer temperatures are experienced, late summer and early fall planting should be planned to avoid fast flower stalk growth and poor quality. Imperial Star is reported to be tolerant of warm summer temperatures. A hot dry climate causes artichoke buds to open quickly and destroys the tenderness of the edible parts. In the summer, irrigation may be used to keep temperatures down in the crop canopy to prevent bud opening.



Care must be taken that artichokes are not exposed to temperatures below 25 F in the winter. Where this happens, straw mulching is recommended. In these regions, you can chop off the stalks in the fall after the last harvest and lay a mulch before the first frost to over winter. At temperatures under 15 F expect severe loss of crowns even with mulch protection. At temperatures near or below freezing the outer skin of the bud scales ruptures, making the bud blistered with a whitish appearance. After a few days the blistered skin turns dark but this won’t effect flavor.



Soil Requirements

Artichokes are deep-rooted plants adapted to a wide range of soil types, but will perform best in well-drained, deep soil high in organic matter with a pH between 6.5 and 8.0. The extremes of heavy clay and light sandy soils should be avoided. Raised-beds are recommended where drainage is poor as in areas with heavy clay. Using raised beds will result in warmer soil temperatures in the spring and faster establishment. The artichoke is a perennial, so prepare the soil well before planting. Mix manure, compost, or other organic matter into the first foot of soil in about equal amounts.



Cultural Practices

Irrigation

A minimum of 1-inch water/week is required. Artichokes require frequent irrigation during the growing season, and water stress results in loose buds. However artichokes absolutely won’t tolerate being water logged so planting in well draining soil is essential. Irrigate more often in warm areas and less often in areas with heavy soil.



Weed control

Shallow cultivation and hand-pulling are the preferred methods.



Planting Requirements

Transplanting nursery starts is the preferred method of getting these beautiful plants into your home garden. Remember that these plants need leg and arm room! They develop a long tap root so make sure you’re giving them enough depth as well as enough room to spread out their growing foliage. Width required depends on variety but leaving about 3 feet on center between plants in a home garden or landscape is usually fine. I use the shade this plant will cast as shelter for smaller, more heat sensitive plants that I plant around it. Like any nursery stock you purchase, select plants carefully.


Organic Seed Sources:
http://attra.ncat.org/sorg/seeds.html

Propagation

Two methods of propagating artichokes are available to the home gardener. Few artichokes breed true to seed so divisions are usually taken to multiply the plants, similar to starting rhubarb. A healthy plant can be dug up, the root divided into two or more parts and replanted. These divisions or offshoots are planted about 6 inches deep so that the tops are flush with the soil surface. While individual plants may live up to 15 years or more, divide about every 3 years to keep planting productive.

Planting from seed is not recommended because results are not predictable and usually inferior to parent plants. But if you do, start seeds about 8 to 12 weeks before last frost. Harden off in cold frame. Plants require 2-3 months to reach transplantable size. Cold treatment of starts (keeping temperature between 35 F and 50 F for about 10 days) can induce flowering in first-year plants. Transplant outside after soil has reached 60 F.  It is not uncommon to have no flowering the first year.

Fertilization

Artichokes are heavy feeders that develop large foliage and require additional nitrogen fertilization during the growing season. In areas where plants can produce all year around, feed them in the fall with a high nitrogen fertilizer. In cold areas, feed in the spring. Use a side-dressing to fertilize. Apply approximately 1/10 pound of an organic nitrogen source per plant when the new crown growth begins. This equals 1 pound (2 cups) of a 10 percent nitrogen fertilizer. During the harvest season, apply 1/4 to 1/3 of the above amounts monthly. I use blood meal (using care not to over apply) and then bone meal six to eight weeks after harvest to help promote development of  late buds.  In my garden at mar’sel restaurant at Terranea Resort, on the bluffs of Rancho Palos Verdes, we’re on our 3rd harvest, having transplanted those plants (Green Globe and Imperial Star) last fall.



I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil before planting and seasonally you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants nitrogen needs can be met via cover cropping.  Before applying amendment or fertilizer it is always a good idea to do a soil test so that you know exactly what is in or isn’t in your soil. Contact your local County Extension office for information on soil testing. Fertilizer may be either broadcast and worked into the soil before planting time or side dressed two inches to the side and three inches below the seed at the time of planting.

The Quick and Easy Guide to Organic Fertilizers – Cornell University Cooperative Extension

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia)

Overwintering

Since artichokes are a perennial plant, it can be overwintered in most areas. After the plant has finish producing, I cut the stalk back to about 6 inches above ground. Mulch thoroughly with a 2″ layer of organic mulch or place under hoop houses.  Another alternative is to dig roots and store in a cold (but not freezing) room. Pot up about a month before transplanting out after last frost.



Violet artichokes of Perinaldo. Courtesy of http://theartichokeblog.com/




Pest/Disease Control

Pests & Disease:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.artichoke.html


The primary insect pests observed are aphids, spider mites and powdery mildew a common disease. See the link above for full diagnosis and treatment of both pests and diseases from UC Davis IPM.



Aphids – A hard stream of water can be used to remove aphids from plants. Wash off with water occasionally as needed early in the day. Spraying with organic horticultural oil is also effective as long as applied regularly and thoroughly. Check for evidence of natural enemies such as gray-brown or bloated parasitized aphids and the presence of alligator-like larvae of lady beetles and lacewings.



In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:



-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?



Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop. Unless gardeners refuse to use any pesticides, they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.



A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.



A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region:

http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.



Harvest/Storage

According to UC Davis: Harvesting begins with the maturing of the first buds in fall and continues normally through the following spring unless interrupted by frost. Peak production occurs in spring.
Handle buds carefully during harvest to avoid bruising bud leaves. Cut artichokes from their stems about 1 to 1-1/2 inches below the bud base. Use immediately or refrigerate as soon as possible after harvesting. Artichokes may be stored for 1 to2 weeks at 32°F. Buds allowed to become over mature will be loose, fibrous and inedible. However, artichoke blossoms are gorgeous as fresh or dried flowers and attracts pollinators.



Did you know that prepared and cooked, whole artichokes freeze well? Yes they do! To freeze only the hearts, first clean, discard tough outer leaves until you see “pale green” leaves, and cut off tips. Next blanch in boiling water for 2–3 minutes, immerse immediately in cold water, and freeze for later use.





Grilled artichoke stems with tarragon garlic butter, a edible extension of the heart. Courtesy of Whiteonricecouple.com

Recipes:

Artichokes cooked in ash: David Rocco – Cooking Channel
Grilled Artichoke Stems – from our dear friends Whiteonricecouple.com
Here’s a link to great party snack ideas: http://www.artichokes.org/recipes.html
Watch this fun with Mark Bittman and Isaac Mizrahi kibitzing while teaching us how to braise artichokes!

I Heart Artichokes by Mark Bittman, NYTimes Magazine 4/21/13

]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-artichoke/feed/ 13 http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-strawberries/ http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-strawberries/#comments Fri, 10 Feb 2012 08:12:46 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=2597

“Strawberry fields forever.” The Beatles

Ahhh, strawberries. There’s probably no other fruit that stirs little girl memories like strawberries! Whimsical girlhood memories of Strawberry Shortcake dolls and strawberry scented everything from lipgloss to bubblebath. Oh, and the strawberry milkshakes of a time in my life before milkshakes topped my “DON’T” list.  It’s not surprising then that I am taken back to those memories with every strawberry I plant.

Family – Rosaceae Genus- Fragaria

Did you know that strawberries are in the same family of the rose flower (Rosaceae) and are really not considered a fruit? The part we eat does not consist of the plant’s ovaries (the common definition of fruit), but of the hypanthium (a saucer-shaped structure that holds the ovaries)!
• Short-day (June-bearing) varieties start forming flower buds as the day length gets shorter and temperatures get cooler. These varieties essentially produce in the late fall, winter and especially in early spring when days are short.
• Day-neutral (Everbearing) types produce fruit spring through fall. Everbearing or day neutral varieties– produce two crops, one in June or July and other in the fall. Everbearing or day-neutral varieties are insensitive to day length and produce fruit throughout the season as long as night-time temperatures drop below 60° F (Strand, 1993). Day‐neutrals – produce fruit almost continuously through the growing season except when it is very hot. The fruit of everbearers and day‐neutrals typically is smaller, and total seasonal yields often are lower than those of June bearers.

NOTE – IF GROWING FOR PRODUCTION – Remove the flower stalks of Short-Day (June-bearing) strawberry plants as they appear throughout the first growing season. More production can be expected if the plants are allowed to attain large size before fruiting. Remove the blossoms of Day-Neutral (Everbearing) types of plants as they appear until about the middle of June (first year only). Then allow flowers to set fruit for harvest during the remainder of the season (August through October).

 

Cultivar recommendations are difficult with strawberries because they tend to be very site specific. Below are some UC Davis recommendations for California:

Short-Day Strawberries

• Douglas. Early producer; berries very large, good color, good flavor, conical; typically a winter-planted cultivar, planted the first 2 weeks of October.

• Pajaro. Berries dark red, large, conical, good flavor; principally a summer-planted cultivar used in northern California, planted in August and September.

• Chandler. Berries exceptional in flavor, color, and size; typically a winter-planted cultivar, but have also been bare-root planted in mid-August.

• Camarosa. Berries large, excellent flavor; for winter planting.

• Sequoia. Berries large, soft, excellent flavor; resistant to Verticillium wilt.

 

Day-Neutral Strawberries

• Selva. Berries exceptionally firm, mild flavor, must be fully red before harvesting; high-yielding; should not be planted before September 10 for optimal performance.

• Muir. Berries conical, better flavor than Selva and lighter in color.

• Irvine. Berries conical, medium-sized, excellent flavor; winter-planted.

• Fern. Berries medium-sized, excellent quality; strongly day-neutral; excellent potential for home gardens because it produces all season long (July-November); plant in the spring as soon as the ground is workable.

• Hecker. Berries abundant, small to medium-sized, mild flavor, deep red; produces throughout the year; plant in late fall to spring.

Here is a great link to National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service (ATTRA) w/ variety selections for other regions of the US. Please contact your county’s cooperative extension office Master Gardener Hotline to get recommendations for your area.

http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/strawberry.html#apxb

Soil Requirements

Choose a well-drained location in full sun. Strawberries are shallow-rooted and grow best in sandy loam soils, which drain well, are well-supplied with humus and have a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. If you haven’t done so recently, take a soil test several months in advance so that you are aware of any deficiencies within enough time before planting to take corrective action. Clay soils drain poorly and are harder to manage but can be improved by adding organic matter. Leaves, chopped straw, compost, rotted sawdust or grass clippings can be used to improve soil structure. Manure applied at 2 to 3 bushels/100 square feet is a good source of organic matter. Apply the organic matter in the fall. Dig it into the soil then so the material will be well decomposed by planting time in early spring. Please use this link to more information regarding how to apply manure safely in your garden:

http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html#manures

Clearing weeds well before planting is very important.

Fertilizing

Before planting, broadcast organic fertilizer over the plots. Spade in 3 pounds of 10-10-10 organic fertilizer (contains micronutrients) per 100 square feet of bed.

If new plants appear light green and do not grow well, sidedress with a organic nitrogen fertilizer (blood or bonemeal) about one month after planting. Be careful not to over-apply as excess nitrogen can burn plants (especially true of Blood Meal as this is pure nitrogen).

Phosphorus-deficient plants are usually dark green with reddish-purple leaf tips and margins. At low pH or in sandy soils, magnesium deficiency may occur. Magnesium deficiency can appear as yellow to white striping between veins of leaves. Older leaves become reddish-purple and leaf tips may die.

Commonly used organic sources of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are bloodmeal (~15% N), bonemeal (~4% N and 21% P2O5), and soybean meal (7% N and 2.3% K2O). Many gardeners choose to use poultry litter or commercially available poultry-litter based products. For example, a 3-2-3 or 3-2-2 poultry litter product can be applied before planting. A blended fertilizer or bonemeal mix (10-10-10) can also be used. A liquid fish-emulsion and seaweed product (average analysis of 4-1-1) may then be used for sidedressing.

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as manure or compost to the soil you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants N needs can be met via cover cropping.

Cultural Practices

Planting:

Strawberry pots, raised beds…both are great ways to plant. Here are two other techniques used in strawberry production:

Matted Row System (low input): Matted row strawberry plantings may bear fruit for more than one season, and may be kept for two or possibly 3 to 4 fruiting seasons if properly renovated*. The matted row system involves planting the mother plants 2 feet apart the first spring then letting runners fill the bed the first summer. The flowers are removed the first year, so no fruit is produced until the second year.

*Renovation or Renewing the Planting: Matted row strawberry plantings may bear fruit for more than one season, and may be kept for two or possibly three to four fruiting seasons if properly renovated. The main purpose of renovation is to keep plants from becoming too crowded in beds. Do not attempt to renew strawberry beds infested with weeds, diseases or insects; it is better to set a new planting.

To renew a planting follow these four steps:

• Broadcast 3 to 4 pounds of a complete organic fertilizer (10-10-10) per 100 feet of row.

• Mow off the leaves, rake away from plants and dispose of them (take your rotary lawn mower and mow over top of bed, setting blade about 4 inches). Avoid damaging the crowns.

• Cut back rows with a cultivator, rototiller or hoe to a strip 12 to 18 inches wide.

• Thin the plants leaving only the most healthy and vigorous. Plants should be about 6 inches apart in all directions.

Annual Hill System (high input): Strawberry plants can be set in the fall and harvested the next spring. This reduces the danger of diseases destroying the crop. Plants are set 12 inches apart in the row and 12 inches apart between rows on beds that contain two rows.

The beds should be 6 inches high at the shoulder and 8 inches high in the center and 26 inches wide. An aisle 22 inches wide between beds should be provided as a place to walk.

When soil moisture conditions are ideal for planting, lay off two rows that are 4 feet apart. Each of the rows should be 2 feet from the edge of the bed. Set the plants 2 feet apart in the rows at the correct depth so the base of the crown is at soil level. Press the soil firmly around the roots and water them in.

A couple of weeks after the new plants begin to grow, flowers will appear. Remove these flowers in the spring of the first year. This improves establishment and channels food reserves into the production of vigorous runners. During the summer of establishment, allow the strawberry runners to develop to form the matted row.

Irrigation:

Freshly dug plants are planted and watered intensively for the first week after planting due to their shallow root system. Potted plants can also be used and require less watering to establish. Watering: Strawberries require moisture during the following “critical” times:

• When plants are set and during dry periods following setting;

• Just before harvest and during harvest when berry size appears to be suffering;

• After renovation, as needed, to encourage new runner plant;

• In late August, September and early October when fruit buds are forming for the next season’s crop. If rainfall is insufficient during these times, then water the plantings on a weekly basis to wet the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Drip irrigation is always best.

Weed Control and Mulching: During the growing season, control weeds by mulching and handpulling. Mulching and handpulling are the best means of control in a small planting. During the winter and spring months, periodically check the planting for the development of winter weeds that should be removed. In late winter mulch the bed with a 1- to 2- inch layer of straw (wheat, oat, rye, pine). One bale will cover 100 square feet. Do not use grass clippings because they will smother the strawberry plants.

Remove the straw in the spring when there are signs of new growth. Rake most of the needles off the tops of the plants. The strawberry plants will grow up through the needles, which will help keep the berries from getting soiled. A good layer of mulch prevents bitter rot and hard rot and slows anthracnose spread in addition to keeping the berries clean.

Organic Pest/Disease Control

Pest Management

Bird Control

Because there is not much food available for birds when strawberries ripen, birds can be a serious problem. The most effective method to keep them from getting most of the fruit is to cover the planting with bird netting. The net will have to be anchored all the way around the planting, otherwise the birds will walk under it. To anchor the net, place 6- to 8-inch stakes around the planting every 2 feet. Angle the stakes out away from the rows so that the net can be hooked over the stakes. This will keep the edge of the net close to the ground and keep the birds from getting under the net. It takes only a few minutes to remove the net for picking and to replace it after you are through.

Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site about some common pests and diseases of strawberries in California: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.strawberry.html

Disease Management

Strawberries are grown in many parts of So. California by home gardeners as a perennial crop. Anthracnose, root-knot nematode, Pythium, Rhizoctonia root and crown rot, Mycosphaerella and Diplocarpon leaf spots, and Botrytis fruit rot can be problems for homeowners.

Rhizoctonia Root & Crown Rot: The root rot phase of this disease is favored by cool weather while the crown rot is worse during hot weather. Plants typically collapse just as fruiting starts. Bottoms of leaves are purple and curl up. The original crown is killed, and numerous side crowns may develop. This disease can be prevented by crop rotation with grass crops. The disease may be introduced with plants obtained from friends or an unknown source. Therefore, it is important to purchase disease-free plants from a reputable nursery.

Red Stele Root Rot or Phytophthora Root Rot: The fungi Phytophthora fragariae and P. cactorum cause this major disease. Plants with severe root rot are often stunted and they may wilt in hot weather. Little or no fruit is produced and plants eventually may die. The most characteristic root symptom is a reddish discoloration of the stele (core). To minimize the risk of red stele, plant resistant cultivars or certified disease-free plants and avoid low, wet sites. You can look at my Plant Disease photo album for pictures of this disease.

Phomopsis Leaf Blight: Phomopsis leaf spot has become increasingly important in Southern regions of the US in recent years. The disease starts to develop in the fall or spring shortly after planting. It spreads rapidly and can kill much of the foliage. It remains active as long as there is green foliage on the plants. If plants become dormant in the winter, the disease will start again in the spring.

Early symptoms are one-six circular, red to purple spots on leaflets. Spots enlarge and develop grey centers. Older spots along veins develop into large V-shaped lesions. Fruit and calyx infection also occurs. The fungus survives in dead leaves attached to the plants. Fruit infection is prevented by controlling foliar infection.

Botrytis Fruit Rot: Botrytis fruit rot is the most common and important fruit disease in many regions of the US. While rot can start on any part of the fruit, it usually starts on the calyx end or the side of fruits touching infected fruits. Affected fruit becomes light brown. The fungus can also invade all other plant parts. Survival of the fungus occurs in infected tissue and in small, oval, black sclerotia on the ground or plants. It germinates in the spring when bloom starts and infects bloom parts. From these it moves into the fruit and may rot it immediately, or be dormant until the fruit ripens. The disease is most severe in wet weather.

The key to control is preventing fall infection of winter leaves, removal of dying leaves in late winter before the addition of mulch and protection of the blooms with an organic fungicide. Several organic growers actually vacuum up dead leaves using shop vacuum cleaners. Using strict sanitation, organic growers have successfully produced berries without using fungicides.

Angular Leaf Spot: This leaf spot bacterium survives in dead plant tissue. The disease starts as small, angular, water-soaked spots on the bottom of the leaves. Spots enlarge but are limited by the veins. Spots are translucent when viewed with transmitted light but dark green when viewed with reflected light. Spots coalesce to cover large portions of the leaf and appear as irregular reddish brown spots on the top of the leaf. Heavily infected leaves usually die. The disease is favored by wet weather with day temperatures of 70 ºF and night temperatures near or below freezing. The disease usually stops as temperatures rise in the spring. There is no chemical control for this disease. If the bacteria are introduced, use crop rotation. One year is sufficient.

Leaf Spot and Leaf Scorch: Leaf spot and leaf scorch, caused by the fungi Mycosphaerella fragariae and Diplocarpon earliana, respectively, cause about the same type of damage and are spread in a similar manner. The spores of each fungus are usually brought into a field on new plants or spread to new areas by insects, birds or farm equipment. Both fungi survive the winter on infected plants.

Leaf spot shows up first on the upper leaf surface as a tiny, round purple spot about one-eighth inch in diameter. At first, the whole spot is purple. Later, the center of the spot becomes gray and then almost white. The border remains purple.

Leaf scorch forms small, dark purple spots on upper leaf surfaces. These spots remain dark purple. A white center is never formed as with leaf spot. The spots have an irregular outline. When numerous, the spots run together and leaves appear to be scorched.

The loss of foliage due to these two diseases can stunt the entire plant. Severely infected plants may die. During early spring rains, spores from just a few diseased plants can multiply and spread through an entire planting.

Anthracnose: The fungi causing anthracnose infect stolons, petioles, crowns, fruit and leaves. Small dark lesions appear on stolons and petioles in the summer and girdle them, killing the leaves and unrooted daughter plants. The fungus grows from the infected petioles and stolons into the crown of the plant, causing a reddish-brown firm rot and the plants wilt and die. The fungus causes round, brown, firm sunken spots on fruit. Normally, death of plants occurs the year after infection occurs. Buying disease-free plants is the best control measure. Once the disease is present, strict sanitation (removal of diseased plant material), mulching and spraying fungicides every five to seven days can result in a 50- to 70-percent harvest.

Prevention in Organic Systems

Prevention of disease through good cultural practices is the most effective means for healthy crop production. To help prevent foliar fungal diseases, keep foliage as dry as possible by watering early in the day so foliage dries quickly, or by using drip irrigation. To reduce soil borne diseases, rotate herbs to different parts of the field each year and remove and destroy all plant debris after final harvest.

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop. Unless gardeners refuse to use any pesticides, they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia) http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C853/C853.htm

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region:

http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

Harvest/Storage

Harvest:

You should pick strawberries every other day or three times a week. Pick the fruit with about one-quarter of the stem attached. The best time to pick is in early morning when berries are still cool. Not all berries ripen at the same time; pick only those which are fully red.

Storage:

Strawberries are extremely perishable, having a max storage life of only 5-7 days at 32 F and 95 % relative humidity.

Strawberries can be washed, drained, covered, and stored in the refrigerator for later use. After rinsing in a colander under running water, I store them in the frig laying flat in a single layer covered with a moistened paper towel. Leave the caps of the berries on until after they are washed to prevent water from soaking into the berry.

Bits and Pieces



via Whiteonricecouple.com Photo by tdphotography.com

My favorite strawberry drink recipes:

http://www.nj.com/insidejersey/index.ssf/2009/07/strawberry_fields.html

Strawberry Mojito – whiteonricecouple.com

Strawberry Agua Fresca

See the GroEdibles Blog: How to Plan and Plant a Cocktail Garden-scroll down to the Vodka Infusion – Strawberry, Lemon, Mint, Cucumber, Lavender, Red Flame Grape recipe.

 

Videos

This video from the New York Botanical garden shows you how to plant herbs in your strawberry pot (she goes over her way to plant strawberries in these pots too) complete with a way to ensure good drainage in these pots.

Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply

And a beautiful video from WhiteonRiceCouple.com TD Photographers:


]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-strawberries/feed/ 1 http://www.groedibles.com/2011/09/growing-veggies-in-containers-pdf/ http://www.groedibles.com/2011/09/growing-veggies-in-containers-pdf/#comments Sun, 25 Sep 2011 00:36:16 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=3399
Source: LA County Master Gardener Program

Click on image to download PDF

]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2011/09/growing-veggies-in-containers-pdf/feed/ 3 http://www.groedibles.com/2011/07/putting-the-sun-in-your-garden-the-beautiful-sunflower/ http://www.groedibles.com/2011/07/putting-the-sun-in-your-garden-the-beautiful-sunflower/#comments Sun, 17 Jul 2011 09:49:09 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=3117

Every friend is to the other a sun, and a sunflower also. He attracts and follows. – Jean Paul Richter







Ahhh, soon I’ll start to see the sunflowers as they come up in my clients’ gardens and it’s glorious!



Teddy Bear Sunflowers in the Four Daughters Kitchen garden Manhattan Beach







Mammoth sunflowers in HGEL’s garden at Reaney Design Co. in Manhattan Beach, CA. Beating the birds to the seed harvest is challenging. You can wrap the drying heads with a pantyhose and that should keep the seeds safe until they and you are ready to harvest

So easy to grow!
Click HERE to download PDF on growing sunflowers from UC Davis

The seeds aren’t the only thing that’s edible!



Braised Sunflowers stuffed with Ricotta Cheese

CLICK HERE FOR BRAISED SUNFLOWER RECIPE AND ‘HOW-TO’ VIDEO

RECIPE for Roasted Sunchokes



Zen priest holds sunflowers seeds. Reuters

“Sunflowers Melt Fukushima’s Nuclear Snow” Reuters

Sunflowers…summer happiness on a stalk!

]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2011/07/putting-the-sun-in-your-garden-the-beautiful-sunflower/feed/ 0 http://www.groedibles.com/2011/05/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-corn/ http://www.groedibles.com/2011/05/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-corn/#comments Sun, 01 May 2011 20:52:16 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=3013

“I know I can do it,” Todd Downy said, helping himself to another ear of corn from the steaming bowl.
– Johnny Depp – from the movie The Secret Window
Ahhh…love that movie and love this veggie!


Corn has deep roots.
Roots that entwine so deeply into our collective ancestral memory that we can accurately describe this crop as ancient.
“Columbus was one of the first Europeans to see maize or corn. The Pueblo Indians were raising irrigated corn in the American Southwest when Coronado visited in 1540. The settlers at Jamestown were taught how to raise it in 1608 and in 1620, it helped to keep the Pilgrims alive over winter. Corn cobs were found in Tehucan, Mexico that date back 7000 years.” Victory Seed Company.

So it makes sense that the image of corn fields waving in the breeze evokes feelings in us all about connectedness to heritage, home and hearth and the ‘land ‘o plenty’. Have you tried to grow it in your garden? Well, if not, now is the time to try. You don’t need a “back 40″ to grow corn. In fact, it is a beautiful addition to your edible landscape.




Blue Jade & Silver Queen corn planted within an edible landscape

Family

Graminae (Poaceae), better known as the grass family
Genus: Zea
Corn is a tall, annual cereal grass bearing grains or kernels. The genus comprises of four species out of which corn (Zea mays) is one of them. Zea mays Linnaesus is known as corn for the US and as maize for the rest of the world. Corn is the most important cash crop of the United States (60 percent of the world production). The center of origin of corn is believed to be Mexico or Central America. Corn was cultivated by the Indians in areas like New England with the arrival of the first European colonists whose survival depended largely on the corn food.

Climatic Requirements

Corn is a warm-season crop that requires high temperatures for successful germination and growth. In general, sweet corn does not tolerate cold weather, and frost will injure sweet corn at any stage of growth. Extreme climate conditions like drought or flooding can reduce yields and cause ears to develop small and deformed.

Because corn is a short-day plant, some cultivars will not flower when the day length is more than 13 hours. This is rarely a problem with commercially available sweet corn varieties in the Southeast, but gardeners should be mindful of day length when planting heirloom or tropical corn varieties.

Soil Requirements

Sweet corn grows best in well-drained, deep, naturally rich, loamy soil. Sweet corn will adapt to a wide range of soil pH. The best growth is seen at pH 6.0 to 6.5. In choosing a site to grow corn, heavy clay soils with poor drainage and areas subject to flooding should be avoided. Dry, sandy sites should only be used if irrigation is available. Sandy soils are best for early crops since sandy soils warm up faster in the spring than heavy soils.

Soil temperature should be between 70° and 85°F for best germination. If the soil temperature is too low, the seed will not germinate. If, at the same time, the soil is too wet, the seed may rot before the soil temperatures are adequate for germination.

Tips on taking your soil temperature reading:

Use a probe thermometer, available at garden supply stores.
Insert the thermometer to two inches into the soil for early season and small, seeded vegetables including arugula, fava beans, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, kale, leeks, lettuce, many of the oriental greens, onions, parsnips, peas, radicchio, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard and turnips.
Insert the thermometer four inches for warm season vegetables such as tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, squash, corn and melons.
Take the temperature at the same time each day for several days in a row and average them out.
The best time to take the temperature is mid-day. If you can’t take the soil temperature each day, agricultural weather reports give out soil temperature information taken mid-day.

~ University of Oregon

Fertilizing

Corn is a fairly heavy feeder so I recommend that you TEST YOUR SOIL for fertility and amend for any deficiencies before you plant. Adding at least three inches of good quality organic compost a couple of weeks in advance is always best. In the absence of a soil test, apply 3 to 4 pounds of an organic 12- 12-12 or similar analysis fertilizer per 100 square feet to establish a good basic fertility level. Side-dressing with an organic high nitrogen fertilizer like blood meal starting when the plants are about 2 feet tall is also recommended. Be careful when applying blood meal as too much will burn your plants.

Nitrogen deficiency is fairly common in corn, particularly in cold, wet soils; flooded soils; or dry, sandy soils. Nitrogen deficiency in young plants causes the whole plant to be pale with spindly stalks and yellow leaf tips. In older plants, nitrogen stress is often shown by shriveling of tip kernels. Having said that, I pull back on the N side dressing when ears start to form as I find continued application of N at this stage diminishes the corns flavor. Stay on top of your fertility because once stunted by lack of nutrients, corn may never fully recover.

Phosphorus-deficient plants are usually dark green with reddish-purple leaf tips and margins. At low pH or in sandy soils, magnesium deficiency may occur. Magnesium deficiency in corn appears as yellow to white striping between veins of leaves. Older leaves become reddish-purple and leaf tips may die.

Commonly used organic sources of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are blood meal (~15% N), bonemeal (~4% N and 21% P2O5), and soybean meal (7% N and 2.3% K2O). Many gardeners choose to use poultry litter or commercially available poultry-litter based products. For example, a 3-2-3 or 3-2-2 poultry litter product can be applied before planting. A blended fertilizer or bonemeal mix (10-10-10) can also be used. A liquid fish-emulsion and seaweed product (average analysis of 4-1-1) may then be used for sidedressing.

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of corn’s N needs can be met via cover cropping.

Cultural Practices

Plant Spacing for small gardens: In areas with unlimited space, sweet corn is usually spaced 10-15 inches apart within the rows, with each row about 36-42 inches apart. A common mistake made by home gardeners is to plant sweet corn in only one or two rows at a time. This typically results in poor pollination and low yields. Sweet corn grows best when planted in several short rows instead of one long row. Corn has male flowers on top of the plant and female flowers called silks at leaf axis along the main stem. The tassel can produce up to a million pollen grains. Pollen moves by wind and gravity, so single rows of corn don’t pollinate and produce as many ears of corn as do rows side by side.

If you’re planting small quantities of sweet corn or don’t have the space for long rows, you can plant in rectangular blocks that consist of a minimum of three rows (although I’ve done two rows closely planted with good results). Plant the seed about 3-4 inches apart in the row, and space the rows 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart. After the plants are up, thin them to 12 inches apart. If planted too close together (< 1 foot), the corn will have small, poorly filled ears. In small areas having limited space, but with good soil moisture and organic matter, it is possible to plant double rows that are 10-12 inches apart with 30-42 inches between each double row. Plants within each row are spaced about 12 inches apart. Planting at these spacing will provide good pollination, good air flow and good yields as long as the blocks are no more than three or four sets of double rows wide and proper moisture, nitrogen and weed control are provided. This method offers the most efficient use of the garden area. Otherwise plan on spacing the plants 1 foot apart within the row, and the rows about 2-3 feet apart.

Isolation: Most gardeners know that sweet corn may not be as sweet if it crosses with field corn. Likewise, some of the supersweet or extrasweet corns may not be as sweet if they cross with other types of corn or even with other supersweet varieties. Corn varieties can be prevented from crossing by isolating them from each other. They can be isolated by either planting them 100 yards or more apart, or by timing plantings so each variety sheds pollen at a different time. It is also a good idea to isolate different sweet corn types from each other, unless the effects of crossing them is established.

Irrigation: Corn needs a continuous supply of moisture to ensure pollination and growth of kernels in the ear. After the tassels are produced, sweet corn requires 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week. Gardeners will find that soaker hoses laid on the soil surface and covered with an organic mulch or drip irrigation is the most efficient way to irrigate. Whatever method used, a gardener should never allow the soil to dry out. It takes consistent, adequate moisture from silking through kernel fill to ensure high yields of high quality ears. Check the amount by catching it in cans placed throughout the watered areas if using overhead sprinklers or by digging down to see if the moisture has penetrated at least the top 6 inches of the soil.

Common recommendations are that suckers should not be removed from the base of the corn plant. It has been reported in many vegetable production publications that their removal does not increase yield or ear size and that removal may actually reduce yield and consume valuable time. Reports from both Clemson University (2002) and Colorado State University (2004) support this recommendation.

Weed Control: Weed control is one of the most difficult management problems facing organic vegetable growers. Before planting, weeds can be reduced through use of crop rotations and cover crops. Try to rotate crops with different growth habits, warm and cool season crops, and crops grown in wide and narrow rows. On small plantings, organic mulches, such as straw or grass clippings, can help shade out weeds between the rows.

Variety Selection

About Corn (Maize)
Native American corn was the genetic foundation of all other corn varieties. “Indian” corn is rarely grown in the garden today.

Most people now associate corn for eating with modern sweet corn varieties that incorporate specific genes to increase or enhance sugar quantities and shelf life. Other types of corn can be eaten like sweet corn when it is young, but are usually grown to maturity, dried and used for flour and meal.

Corn is probably the most diverse grain crop. Both man and nature have selected traits that can roughly be classified by the characteristics of their kernels — flint, flour, dent, pop, sweet, and waxy.

Flint corn is mostly hard with smooth, hard seed coats.

Flour corn is soft and starchy with thin seed coats.

Dent corn has hard “flinty” sides with soft starchy cores that allow the ends to collapse or “dent” when the corn dries. Varieties of dent corn are the most widely grown types in the Unites States and used for oils, syrups, grits, meals, flours, and silage.

Popcorn is one of the oldest forms of corn and can be generally classified into two types — pearl or rice — based on the physical shape of the kernels.

Sweet corn is mainly grown for fresh consumption and not used for flour or feed. A variety named ‘Papoon’ was raised by the Iroquois in 1779. Golden Bantam, a variety that we still offer, was released in 1902 and has been popular ever since.

By the way, the “baby corn” that you use on salads are simply immature, unfertilized ears that have been harvested and sometimes pickled.
~ Victory Seeds Company

Four types of sweet corn are available:

standard (su=normal sugary),
sugary-enhanced (se),
and supersweet (sh2),
and synergistic or
triplesweet (sy).

The su type is the old-fashioned sweet corn with which we are all familiar. It must be consumed quickly after harvest, or the sugars rapidly turn to starch. The se types contain more sugar than the su type and, if cooled, will remain sweet for several days after harvest. The sh2 type also contains more sugar than the su type but converts very little sugar to starch. If properly cooled, an sh2 variety will remain sweet for 7 to 10 days after harvest. The sy type is a hybrid comprised of 75% se and 25% sh2 kernels, resulting in an ear with the sweet and tender characteristics of the se type but with the shelf- life of the sh2.

Hybrids
Many organic growers prefer the following cultivars. ‘Platinum Lady’ (se) and ‘Bodacious’ (se) are good early-season sweet corn varieties. ‘Silvarado’ (se), ‘Kandy Corn’ (sh2), ‘Argent’ (se), and ‘Snowbelle’ (se) are excellent mid-season varieties, and ‘Delectable’ (se), ‘Pegasus’ (sh2), and ‘Silver Queen’(su) are good late-season white corns. In a crop-rotation study (J.M. Davis, unpublished), ‘Silver Queen’ exhibited very little earworm damage, probably because of the tight tips on the husks.

During the early 1990s, an organic growers network in New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Vermont recommended ‘Silver Queen’ (su) (because of consumer name recognition and earworm resistance) and ‘Snowbelle’ (se) as good white corn varieties for organic growers. For an early-season yellow corn, they suggested ‘Sugar Buns’ (se). ‘Bodacious’ (se) is a favorite early to mid-season yellow, and ‘Clockwork’ (se) is an excellent mid-season bicolor in that part of the country. Varieties for the new sy type include ‘Renaissance’ and ‘Nantasket (early season), ‘Montauk’ and Bojangles’ (midseason), and ‘Providence’, ‘Cameo’ and ‘Charmed’ (late season). In addition, improved sweet corn hybrids are being introduced every year, especially se, sh2, and sy varieties, with improved disease resistance and seed germination. There are many more varieties available. Check with your organic seed company for varieties that are recommended in your growing zone. More information on Sweet Corn varieties.

Please note that you should be careful to avoid genetically modified varieties of sweet corn. These varieties are transgenetic, for example, containing the Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) gene. The use of GMO corn is not approved for organic production.

Heirloom Varieties
‘Golden Bantam’ was first introduced in 1902. This is the corn all others were compared to.
‘Country Gentleman’ is a popular old-fashioned shoe peg variety with irregularly spaced white kernels.
‘Stowell’s Evergreen’ was the standard, late-season white sweet corn before ‘Silver Queen.’ Ears are 8 to 9 inches long.
‘Bloody Butcher’ is a flint corn used for flour-making or decoration. The ears are bright red.
‘Strawberry Popcorn’ an old variety, grows 2-to 3- inch ears that are excellent for decorations in the fall, then popping in the winter.

Organic Pest/Disease Control

Pest Management
Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site about corn pests and diseases:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.corn.html

In an organic system pest management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system.

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?
-Is there a nutrient imbalance?
-Is the soil too wet or too dry?
-Has a good crop rotation been followed?
-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?
Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop. Unless gardeners refuse to use any pesticides, they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

Bird Management
Young corn seedlings are vulnerable to bird damage. There are several methods to reduce bird problems. The most common, inexpensive, and easy methods are designed to frighten birds away. A method that is sometimes effective is a bird-scare balloon with shiny, mylar “eyes,” or inflatable owls. These should be suspended about 5 ft above the ground and moved every few days. Reflective bird tape that is silver on one side and red on the other can be twisted and suspended about 6 inches above the newly seeded rows. A field full of this shiny tape will disorient bird and grower alike!

Disease Management
Although there are several corn diseases of concern, there are many sweet-corn cultivars available with resistance to the major diseases. Whenever possible, a gardener should select marketable cultivars with disease resistance to fit his/her specific needs and conditions.

Corn smut, which appears particularly on white cultivars, is characterized by large, fleshy, grey-black galls on the stalks, tassels, or ears. It is important to remove and destroy the first galls before they open. To control smut, avoid injuring plantings and avoid areas where smut occurred before. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r113100311.html

Root rot frequently occurs on seedlings planted in cool, moist soil. Planting should be delayed until soil temperatures are adequate to allow for rapid germination. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r113100611.html

Stewart’s bacterial wilt is sometimes a problem in the mid-South. Early-infected plants wilt and die. Later-infected plants are stunted and contain yellow streaks on the leaves. The disease is spread by the corn flea beetle, especially after mild winters. New cultivars resistant to Stewart’s wilt should be used if early sweet corn is to be planted where flea beetle populations were high the previous year.

Rust and leaf blights can be a problem in extended periods of warm, moist weather or areas of heavy dew. Rust blown from field corn planted upwind nearby can threaten sweet-corn crops. Cultivars resistant to rust are recommended in threatening conditions.

Get regional information on IPM from your regional IPM center using the link provided below.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach. This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and judicious use of pesticides. When pesticides must be used, an effort is made to select ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.
Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region:

http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that, once an organic system is established, there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

Harvest/Storage

Harvest: Each sweet-corn plant will produce at least one large ear that should be harvested at prime maturity, when the silks are dry and brown and the ear has enlarged to the point that the husks are tight. This stage is usually 17 to 18 days after silking under warm day and night conditions, or 22 to 24 days after silking during cool weather conditions. At harvest, kernels should be plump and exude a milky liquid when punctured (except for most supersweets with the sh2 gene where the liquid is clear). This stage only lasts 4 to 5 days, so the corn must be checked and harvested frequently. Sweet corn is removed from the plant by simultaneously snapping and twisting the ear away from the stalk. To capture the sweetest flavor, pick just before preparing the dinner, or leave unhusked and refrigerate until cooking time. Corn sugar will start to turn to starch as soon as the ear is taken from the plant.

Storage:
Handling and Storage
If sweet corn is to be frozen or canned, it should be shucked, de-silked, and brought to a boil for a period of three minutes immediately after harvest. Cool it as rapidly as possible after boiling. It may them be either frozen or canned. Immediate processing this way reduces sugar loss and greatly improves flavor. Avoid holding sweet corn for long periods of time at ambient temperatures after it is harvested.

Storage Requirements
Sweet corn is best eaten immediately. Some gardeners won’t even go pick their ears until the cooking water is already boiling…
FRESH:
Temperature Humidity Storage Life
40-45F 80-95% 4-10 days
PRESERVED:
Method Taste Shelf Life
Canned excellent 12+ months
Frozen good 8 months
Dried good 12+ months

Great article on the growing stages of corn from Virginia State University:

http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/424/424-055/424-055.html

]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2011/05/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-corn/feed/ 0 http://www.groedibles.com/2011/04/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-watermelon/ http://www.groedibles.com/2011/04/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-watermelon/#comments Fri, 15 Apr 2011 00:22:38 +0000 HGEL http://www.groedibles.com/?p=244

“Mornings, before daylight, I slipped into corn fields and borrowed a watermelon, or a mushmelon, or a punkin, or some new corn, or things of that kind.”

Mark Twain, Huckleberry Finn



Sugar Baby growing at HGEL's tiny garden at Four Daughters Kitchen in Manhattan Beach

Yes…there’s nothing like a little bit of Huck Finn and some watermelon to get you thinking about summer…and all the new adventures you’ll have! No worries…the long, lazy days of summer will arrive although I know in some places it seems it will take forever. Stay hopeful my friends, and to get you in the right frame of mind…here’s a primer on growing watermelon!

Family -

Cucurbitaceae = Citrullus lanatus

The Cucurbitaceae or cucurbit family (also commonly referred to as the cucumber, gourd, melon, or pumpkin family) is a medium-sized plant family, primarily found in the warmer regions of the world.

Watermelons are indigenous to tropical Africa, where they are found wild on both sides of the equator. They were developed from a native African vine. Their cultivation by man dates back 4,000 years to the ancient Egyptians, as proven by artistic records. Watermelons spread from ancient Egypt to India and Asia, and were widely distributed throughout the remainder of the world by Africans and European colonists.

Climatic Requirements

Watermelons are warm-season crops that grow best at average air temperatures between 70 and 85 °F. Melon seed does not germinate well in cold soil. The soil temperature at the 4-inch depth should be 60 to 65 °F before this crop is planted. In the spring, do not plant this crop until after the last chance of frost.

Varieties

Here is an excellent slideshow of great varieties (mini and full size) of watermelon from our friends at Saveur Magazine: http://www.saveur.com/gallery/Varieties-of-Watermelon/1

Recently bush and mini varieties of watermelon have been developed for small gardens. These watermelons take half the space of traditional watermelons without giving up any of the sweet, juicy taste. Bush watermelons weigh an average six to eight pounds. The short vines of growing bush watermelons produce fruit with few seeds. The Saveur list shows many mini types.

Soil Requirements

Watermelons grow best on a deep sandy loam soil high in organic matter, well drained and slightly acidic. Sandy loam soils are preferred for growing watermelons because sandy soils generally warm faster in the spring, are easier to plant and cultivate and allow deep root penetration (watermelon is one of the deepest rooted of all vegetables). When planted on very heavy soils, the plants develop slowly, and fruit size and quality are usually inferior. Yields on clay soils can be increased significantly by mulching with black plastic film to conserve moisture. Fine sands produce the highest quality melons when adequate fertilizer and water are provided. To reduce the risk of diseases, do not plant on land where vine crops have grown during the past four years. Avoid low, damp areas or pockets where cool air may collect. Soil pH can vary from 5.5 to 8. Don’t be concerned with adjusting soil pH unless it is below 5.8.



Fertilizing

Watermelon has moderate nutrient requirements compared with other vegetable crops, and due to its deep rooting it is efficient in pulling nutrients from the soil. It is best to base fertilizer application on the results of a soil test. If a soil test has not been taken, apply 5-10-10 at 30 pounds per 1,000 square feet before planting. Melons should be sidedressed before the vines start to “run.” Sidedress with a calcium-rich organic fertilizer (such as fish emulsion, bone meal, etc.-see chart) at 2 pounds per 100 feet of row. Sidedress a second time after bloom when fruit is developing on the vine. Too much nitrogen fertilizer can encourage excess vine growth and reduce fruit growth.



Cornell University Cooperative Extension "Fertilizing Garden Soil"

Poor flavor and lack of sweetness can be due to poor fertility, low potassium, magnesium or boron; cool temperatures; wet weather; poorly adapted variety; loss of leaves from disease or picking melons unripe.

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants N needs can be met via cover cropping.

Pollination:

Watermelon has male and female flowers. Male flowers produce the pollen, and the female flowers produce the watermelon fruits. Honeybees and other bees transfer the pollen. After the plant produces many male flowers, every seventh flower on a plant branch is female. All male and most female flowers drop off the plant, and fruits set more or less irregularly throughout the season. The condition of the plant and number of melons already set deter­mine the number of female flowers that set fruit later. Therefore, pruning misshapen melons while small is essential to encourage additional fruit set.

Flowers open one to two hours after sunrise. Female flowers are receptive to pollen throughout the day although most pollination takes place before noon. In the afternoon the flowers close, never to reopen, whether pollinated or not. Bees must deposit adequate pollen on all three lobes of the female flower’s stigma or a misshapen melon develops. Cold, rainy and windy weather reduces bee activity, which can cause poor melon production due to inadequate pollination. Even though a melon has normal shape, it will ripen at a smaller size and contain fewer seeds if pollination was marginal.

When flowers are developed on the plants, do not use insecticides such as carbaryl or Sevin which are extremely toxic to bees. Misshapen melons are caused by poor pollination during wet, cool weather and lack of bee pollinators.

NOTE ABOUT SEEDLESS MELONS: If you grow seedless melons, you’ll also have to plant a row of a standard seeded variety for every three rows (or three plants) of the seedless melons. The seedless melon varieties do not have the fertile pollen necessary to pollinate and set the fruit. The pollinator plant should be distinct from the seedless cultivar in color, shape or type so that the seedless and seeded melons in the patch can be separated at harvest. Because seedless types don’t put their energy into producing seed, the flesh is often sweeter than normal types and the vines are noticeably more vigorous as the season goes along.

Cultural Practices

Planting:

Watermelon vines require a lot of space. Plant seed 1 inch deep in hills spaced 6 feet apart. Allow 7 to 10 feet between rows. After the seedlings are established, thin to the best three plants per hill. For earliness, start the seed inside about three weeks before they are to be set out in the garden. Plant two or more seeds in 3-inch deep pots or peat pots, then thin to the best two plants. I know you’re anxious to get these beauties in your garden but DO NOT START TOO EARLY; large watermelon plants transplant poorly. Growing transplants inside at warm temperatures ensures germination of seedless varieties that require temperatures between 80 and 85 degrees F. Place black plastic over the row before planting. Use an organic starter fertilizer solution when transplanting. Planting too close results in excessive vegetative growth. Fruit in contact with soil may develop rotten spots or be damaged by insects on the bottom. Place a board or several inches of light mulching material, such as sawdust or straw, beneath each fruit when it is full-sized.

Irrigation:

Although watermelon is a deep-rooted crop able that can tolerate a significant degree of soil moisture stress, peak production requires timely irrigation. Watermelons need a lot of water. In fact, water comprises 92 percent of the watermelon fruit. If using overhead irrigation, water in the morning so the foliage has time to dry before dark. Wet foliage encourages foliar diseases. The use of drip irrigation is very beneficial in that no water is applied to the foliage but is applied to the plant root zone instead. When watering, make sure the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 6 inches. Watermelons need an immense amount of water during fruit set and development. Irrigation should be managed to minimize water stress throughout the fruit set and fruit sizing periods. Water stress during early fruit development can result in small, misshapen fruit, and the occurrence of blossom end rot (a physiological disorder in which the blossom end of a fruit ceases to grow and becomes dark and leathery). As harvest approaches care must be taken to avoid large fluctuations in soil moisture content, as heavy irrigation (or rainfall) can result in fruit splitting.

Drip irrigation scheduling is determined by potential evapotranspiration (ETo) estimates and crop growth stage; frequency of irrigation can vary from once a week early in the season to daily during times of peak water demand. Regardless of irrigation technique, care must be taken to minimize wetting of the bed tops. Fruit in contact with moist soil may develop unsightly ground spots and fruit rots.

Weed Control and Mulching: Watermelons should be kept free from weeds by shallow hoeing and cultivation. During the growing season, control weeds by mulching and handpulling. Mulching and handpulling are the best means of control in a small planting. During the winter and spring months, periodically check the planting for the development of winter weeds that should be removed. Many organic watermelon growers apply natural mulches such as straw, leaves or compost around the plants, after they become established, to control weeds. This practice is labor intensive but it conserves soil moisture, attracts earthworms and eventually enriches the field with organic matter and nutrients.

To control weeds all season with a natural mulch like straw, growers need to apply a heavy layer, about six inches thick. If the straw mulch is much less than six inches in depth, weeds will soon grow right through it. The weed control effectiveness of natural mulch can be increased dramatically through the use of paper. Roll out a four foot wide strip of paper over the bare soil where the watermelon row will be planted. Apply a four inch layer of straw on top of the paper. Set watermelon transplants, right down through the straw, in a hole made through the paper.

Organic Pest/Disease Control

Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site about some common pests and diseases of Curcurbits:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.cucurbits.html

Pests – deer, crows and coyotes: barrier methods work best – fences, bird netting or floating row covers.



photo: sharonwatterson.wordpress.com

 

Insect Control -

A common problem in production of watermelons is early season infestation by Green Peach Aphids. These aphids transmit mosaic virus to the plants. They are most likely to be a problem in cool weather. An excellent natural control for both the aphids and the cool temperature is the use of floating row covers. The row cover serves as a physical barrier to the aphids and also provides a warm climate for the seedlings to get started growing. Watermelon growers will probably only want to use floating row covers just for the first 3 weeks after seedling transplants are set out in the field. The covers must be removed to allow pollination of the flowers by bees. Other natural controls for aphids include insecticidal soap, hot pepper wax, garlic sprays, horticultural oil, rotenone, pyrethrum, ladybugs and lacewings.

The next insect pest that is most likely to be seen on watermelons is the Cucumber Beetle. These insects do not cause very much damage in watermelons. Cucumber beetles transmit a disease called bacterial wilt to cantaloupes. Watermelons are resistant to bacterial wilt. If they show up early in the season, they can cause injury to young seedlings. If two beetles per plant are found on young watermelon seedlings, a spray application of rotenone or sabadilla is advised. These botanical insecticides are natural poisons. Growers are advised to follow label directions with caution when using them. The floating row covers can also block cucumber beetles from young seedlings. There is evidence that both aluminum mulch and red plastic mulch repel cucumber beetles. These materials are most useful in keeping down cucumber beetle populations when the plants are blooming and attempting to set fruit. Cucumber beetles interfere with fruit set because they actually eat the stamens and pistils of the flowers.

If the weather conditions become hot and dry, spider mites may infest watermelon fields. They can cause severe reduction of yields. Predator mites can be released in the field at the first sign of infestation to control spider mites. This is a relatively expensive treatment. Most organic growers attempt to control spider mites with spray applications of horticultural oil, insecticidal soap or hot pepper wax. A heavy rain controls them better than any human intervention.

Disease Management

Bacterial wilt (spread by cucumber beetles), fusarium wilt, anthracnose leaf spot, powdery and downy mildews, alternaria blight, gummy stem blight.

Blossom end rot on melons grown on acidic soils with a lack of irrigation.

The following conditions lead to disease problems:

• The fertility of the soil is out of balance and there are either too many or too few nutrients available to the plants. The soil pH is below 6.0 or above 7.0.
• Mechanical injury has occurred due to hail or reckless cultivation.
• Heavy rains fall throughout the growing season or the crop is grown under an overhead irrigation system.
• Uncontrolled populations of aphids are present in the field.
• Watermelon varieties are planted that do not have disease resistance.
• The field is poorly drained and the watermelon plant roots stay wet for extended periods of time.
• Watermelons are grown in the same spot year after year.

The most common controls used against diseases in organic watermelon fields are mineral fungicides like copper and sulfur. A few biological fungicides have been developed in recent years but are expensive. Sprays of copper and sulfur are effective in preventing disease but they are not effective in clearing up a disease once it is established in the garden. If you plant disease resistant varieties, practices crop rotation, maintain balanced soil fertility and use a trickle irrigation system rather than overhead irrigation, you should be able to grow watermelons organically without using a preventive spray program. It is not a good idea to spray copper materials on any garden year after year because it can accumulate in the soil and cause harm to beneficial microbial populations in the soil food web.

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop…gardeners are, above all else, patient. Unless you refuse to use any pesticides (we strive for this – organic or not), they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia) http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C853/C853.htm

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region: http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

Harvest/Storage

Harvest:

Many home gardeners experience difficulty in determining when watermelons are ripe. Use a combination of the following indicators: (1) light green, curly tendrils on the stem near the point of attachment of the melon usually turn brown and dry; (2) the surface color of the fruit turns dull; (3) the skin becomes resistant to penetration by the thumbnail and is rough to the touch; and (4) the bottom of the melon (where it lies on the soil) turns from light green to a yellowish color. These indicators for choosing a ripe watermelon are much more reliable than “thumping” the melon with a knuckle. Many watermelons do not emit the proverbial “dull thud” when ripe. For these, the dull thud may indicate an over-ripe, mushy melon.

University of Colorado, Boulder County Cooperative Extension shows us how it’s done:


Storage:

Once picked, uncut watermelon can be stored for about 2 weeks at room temperature especially if the temperature is about 45 to 50°. Uncut watermelons have a shorter refrigerator life, so store at room temperature until ready to chill and eat. Tightly cover cut pieces in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

My favorite watermelon cocktail recipe: After all that work, you deserve a cocktail! http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/claire-robinson/cucumber-watermelon-margaritas-recipe/index.html
Watermelon Gazpacho
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/07/21/health/research/21recipehealth.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

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