“Spring is nature’s way of saying, “Let’s party!”
- Robin Williams

Spring equinox is March 21st around my part of the world and it’s coming up fast and furious. Now, I have to admit that doing my spring garden prep work was never a source of serious intestinal “knottage” in my earlier years. In fact it was a seasonal milestone that I really looked forward to…a sort of “back to school” feeling that everything was nothing but possibilities. It’s that “starting with a clean slate” enthusiasm that inspires all of us gardeners at the start of a new growing season. But times…oh how they have changed! As a professional edible landscaper, it’s not just ‘garden-play’ anymore. Now my professional rep depends on just how well I prep my own garden for the height of our growing year (Manhattan Beach is a small town and my neighbors know what I do for a living!) and, yes, my business depends on how well I organize…well… my gardening “stuff”. It’s no good when your garden managers can’t find the bone meal or the dead-heading scissors or struggle to find those drip emitters when they’re in a rush to get busy in your clients’ gardens! Yep… now the month of March always comes in like a lion for me and it keeps on roaring all the way through October!
How do I get my garden, my garden shed and myself ready for spring? Here are a few of my tips and a few I’ve “harvested” from the web.

Me, myself and I

• Getting yourself ready for bikini season and gardening season all at once

First and foremost, you can’t be a good gardener (let alone a professional one) if hurting, aching, huffing and puffing or running off to get your son or burly assistant to do the inevitable heavy lifting is part of your gardening reality. Folks, this stuff is hard work! It’s great exercise but you need to prepare your body just like any other form of exercise or sport you do.

A morning walk to the HGEL Reaney Design Co Garden in MB

In January I started walking. Not far, just a mile or so the first few weeks until I gradually worked up to 4 miles at least 3-4 times per week. Walk somewhere that is a calm and peaceful setting for you. This should be as much a mental stress reducer as it is a physical one. Go to a local park, community garden, beach, any place that you’d like to be even if you weren’t there to exercise. You’ll find that you’ll look forward to

Morning walk to Manhattan Beach Pier

• The value of a good garden warm-up routine

Like in any sport, the best coaches/trainers will tell you – WARM UP BEFORE YOU PLAY! Gardening is no different. Your body needs a good 10 minutes of a slow stretch and muscle warm up routine to help it avoid muscle strain and injury. Here is an easy-to-follow guide to some simple stretches you can do right there in the garden!

Click HERE to view picture on website

You know where you’re feeling muscle tightening so start by doing slow stretches targeting those muscles. For me, my problem zone are the muscles in my ‘back 40′ gluteus

Glute stretch seated

1. Sit on a garden bench or chair and cross one leg over the other, with the ankle on top of the other knee.
2. Sit up straight, squeezing your shoulder blades together.
3. Lean slightly forward into the stretch. Ahhhhh! I can hear you all sighing from here!

• You are what you eat

Growing your own food already makes you more aware of the nutritional value of the food your garden gives you. Good start! If you think your diet could use some improvement (and whose doesn’t), start reading! There are lots of great books and articles out there to help. Of course consult your medical professional as well. Whatever you decide to do to improve the eating habits and health of yourself and your family, the most important goal to strive for is

“Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”

Michael Pollan, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto.

That means No Processed Food…Portion Correctly…and Fill Your Plate with Mostly Veggies! The table on the left and the plate graphic below will help you visualize how this should look. C’mon, with a little adjustment, this won’t be hard!
Of course, some of us will choose to eat nothing but plants and, with some knowledge about including enough protein, this can be a life-changing choice, but it’s not for everyone. For my family, a good fit is to try to follow a Mediterranean diet as much as possible – more emphasis on things that grow and less on things that go! ☺

Here are some good articles and books on the Mediterranean diet:

Mayo Clinic

New England Journal of Medicine

The Mediterranean Diet: Ten Books to Get You Reading
(a listing of the most popular reviewed books on Amazon)

The average serving size of meat on U.S. plates is 6-8oz. If you choose to start cutting back your family’s consumption of animal protein, don’t do it drastically overnight. Try cutting down the serving by 1oz over a period of a few weeks until you get to the recommended portion size of about 3oz. (about the size of a deck of playing cards). Who’s going to notice missing 1oz off their plate a week? Here are a view more visual cues to get you prepared to portion correctly.

The look of normal portion sizes

• 1 oz. meat = size of a matchbox
• 3 oz. meat = size of a deck of cards or bar of soap (the recommended portion for a meal)
• 8 oz. meat = size of a thin paperback book

1 medium potato = size of a computer mouse

Getting Your Garden (and Garden Shed) in Shape

• Organizing your seeds

• Organizing your garden shed

• 20 Vegetable Garden Good Things from Martha

• Getting your soil ready

As many of my blog readers and facebook fans know, I’m a dirt nerd. EVERYTHING depends on this one thing. So let’s start from the ground up, shall we?

GroEdibles Blog: What’s in a teaspoon of soil: The Care and Feeding of the Soil Food Web

GroEdibles Resource Page: Soil Evaluation, Prep and Management

GroEdibles Class Handout: Master Earth & Water in Your Edible Garden

• A Review: The value of using your tools correctly to avoid injury


How to use a shovel correctly


How to select and use tools correctly


How to sharpen your tools safely



So I hope this helps you get on your path to being garden (and bikini) fit and ready! And, for our friends in colder climates, hey – consider yourself lucky – you’ve got a couple more months to prepare!

Happy Spring Everyone!



]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2012/03/getting-yourself-your-garden-in-shape-for-spring/feed/ 3 http://www.groedibles.com/2012/03/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-leeks/ http://www.groedibles.com/2012/03/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-leeks/#comments Mon, 05 Mar 2012 07:30:34 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=2122

“I would desire you to eat it…if you can mock a leek, you can eat a leek”

William Shakespeare (1564-1616) King Henry V

A beautiful and ancient monocot, the leek is, as far as I’m concerned, a necessity in any serious cool season culinary garden. Certainly, there is hardly a European garden without the gorgeous blue-green stand of leeks in winter. In the U.S., however, the leek remains under-appreciated.

 

From the edible landscaper’s perspective, the leek provides a productive upright, structural element that broadens our design palette with its coloration (white to blue-green to dark green and even purple). From a chef’s perspective, leeks are an integral ingredient in a production garden that provides an elegant, mild, delicate flavoring to sauces, salads, soups, and a myriad of other dishes.

Genus: Allium. Alliums (garlic, leek, onion, scallion & shallot) are a genus of plants that have provided flavorful seasoning in food for thousands of years.  Onions and garlic were two of the most important crops consumed in ancient Egypt.  Islamic legend has it that when Satan left the Garden of Eden after the fall of man, garlic sprang up where his left foot stepped, and onions grew where his right foot was placed.

Family: Alliaceae  (subfamily Allioideae of Amaryllidaceae)

Species: Allium ampeloprasum (porrum) – which includes leeks, elephant garlic

A bit of botantical history –

The leek is a biennial onion relative that is grown as an annual for its long, thick stem, the white to pale green part of which is used as a staple in the home and professional kitchen. The modern leek is related to the wild leek of the Mediterranean and the Canary Islands, Madeira, and the Azores. While leeks have long been a staple winter vegetable of Northern Europe, they are decidedly unsung and underappreciated in the U.S.  Let’s change that!

Medicinal qualities –

All of the foods in the Allium family are full of antioxidants and phytonutrients. Organic sulfuric compounds give these plants their unique piquant flavors and make them highly regenerative; the more pungent the flavor, the more powerful the health benefits. Garlic and scallions, along with onions, leeks, chives and shallots, are rich in flavonols (substances in plants that have been shown to have anti-tumor effects). New research from China confirms that eating vegetables from the allium group can reduce the risk of prostate cancer.  Throughout the history of medicine, leeks have been known to clean your arteries and retard the growth of viruses, yeasts, ferments and other pathogenic organisms. They are also full of manganese, Vitamin C, and B6. They do not have the same antibacterial properties of garlic, but they do have similar cancer fighting benefits and they stabilize blood sugar much like onions. Leeks are also high in iron and folate. See the GroEdibles blog “The Pharmacy in Your Garden – The Hidden Medicinal History of Your Favorite Plants”.

Varieties:

I love leeks. These three key words from UCCE, Stanislaus County sums them up perfectly:

• Stalwart—Cold tolerant, overwintering through the snows of winter unharmed.
• Long—Tall; some winter varieties achieve the same dimensions as a baseball bat. In fact, leeks, unlike most vegetables, achieve full flavor and ideal texture as they size up. A full-size, mature leek eclipses a young baby leek in both categories.
• Slow and steady—While many books and catalogs I have seen indicate 4–8 weeks from seeding to transplant and 50–100 days from transplanting to maturity, 10–12 weeks from seed to transplant and 90–120, or even 180 days from transplanting to harvest is the norm in my experience.

There are two basic types of leeks: summer types (long shanked—bulbless) and winter types (short shanked—slight bulbing).

Summer varieties

Summer varieties feature taller plants with light- to mid-green foliage, almost to the point of appearing nitrogen deficient. The shanks are long (8–12 inches) and self-blanching. They are “quicker” to maturation (90–100 days; all dates are from transplants) than winter types and have a lighter, slightly milder taste. Summer types are more heat tolerant and less cold hardy than winter varieties. They are generally grown spring to fall, although in mild winter areas (like parts of So. Cal.) they are overwintered.

Kilma  (90 days) – Fast-growing summer leek with 10–12-inch shanks. Only tolerates slight frosts.

King Richard and Titan (90-100 days from transplant) – Virtually indistinguishable from one another. One of the earliest-maturing varieties. Long (10–12 inch) self-blanching shanks. Light green foliage. Light, sweet texture and taste. More heat tolerant than any other variety. Some cold tolerance (35˚–32˚F), but not truly winter hardy. Will deteriorate quickly with extensive winter rains.

Lincoln – Often used for baby leeks or bunching, leaves similar to King Richard.

Blue Solaize (100-120 days from transplant) – This is a beautiful French heirloom, truly blue-colored leaves that turn violet after a cold spell. Very large, 15-20″ stalks, sweet medium-long shaft, extremely hardy. Good for short-season areas and winter harvest.




Winter varieties

Winter varieties possess dark, almost blue-green foliage with shorter, squat plants. They are slower to mature (120 –180 days) and the shanks are fatter, growing 3–4 inches across, often with some basal bulbing. Even with hilling there is less blanched, succulent edible portion of the stem. They offer a richer, meatier taste and texture. Winter types feature minimal heat tolerance and excellent cold tolerance for gardeners dealing with temperatures consistently in the teens.

American Flag (130 days) — Pure white blanched stems with mild sweet flavor and good winter hardiness.

Blue De Solaise (105 days) – Old French variety with bluegreen to almost blue foliage tinged with red. Extremely cold hardy with fat, succulent shanks.

Broad London (120 days) – Very squat, short (4–6 inch) shanked, sweet, creamy-textured old variety. Some heat tolerance and moderate cold tolerance.

Giant Musselburg – Old German variety, 150 days to maturation, pure white, sweet, tender, short shank, dark green foliage.

Unfortunately, with rare exceptions, U.S. seed catalogs usually offer only one to three varieties of leeks.  Northern European seed companies usually feature greater varietal diversity, types and varieties. Here are some U.S. seed companies that seem to carry the rarer leek varieties: Irish Eyes, Heirloom Seeds, Sustainable Seed Co., Cherry Gal, Seed Savers

Until the 1990s all leeks were open pollinated (OP) varieties, not proprietary F1 hybrids with corporate ownership. New methods have made hybridizing them possible, so now many seed catalogs offer both.

A word about open pollinated (OP)  v. hybrid: It is, of course, a personal choice but HGEL urges its clients to use open pollinated or heirloom seeds whenever possible. There are many instances when a hybrid choice is preferred (increased vigor or disease resistance for a challenging garden site or beginner gardener). I have my own hybrid favorites but my choice is to use open pollinated (OP) as often as I can.

Open pollinated seeds are pollinated by wind or bees and their traits are somewhat fixed within an exceptable range of variability. Heirloom seeds have been passed down for many years and have been preserved and kept true. The heirloom usually yields a superior product regarding taste, color, flavor and texture; all qualities that are of paramount importance to a commercial or home edible garden grower. As long as there is no cross pollination, you can harvest the seeds for next year and expect to get similar results. Hybrids result from a deliberate cross between two inbred lines. They are becoming increasingly popular because they usually are more disease resistant and vigorous than open-pollinated varieties.  Seed saved from hybrids produces many different plant types and are not true to the parent plant which may be a disappointment for gardener who has unknowingly saved and planted hybrid seed. Seeds saved from hybrids usually do not produce the desired results.  

To be sure, check the package to see if it says “F1 hybrid.” F2 plants are not hybrids and lend themselves to seed saving.  Most importantly, however, using open pollinated or heirloom seeds will insure the continuation of our seed source, increase sustainability and support our smaller seed companies.

Climatic Requirements:

Along with kale, leeks are the most cold-tolerant of vegetables. If established in late summer they can overwinter through the frozen ground and snow pack. In fact, the colder the temperature, the sweeter the taste. On the other end of the spectrum, they will survive, but are not at all fond of temperatures consistently above 85˚F.

Soil Requirements:

All alliums are shallow-rooted crops that tolerate a wide variety of soil textures, however, dense clay soil or rocks can hinder growth and development.  Prepare most garden beds with at least 2 inches of compost mixed into the soil to create ideal conditions for alliums. A soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is optimum.

Cultural Practices:

Blanching

Hill or mound soil up around the lower parts of the stem (shank) to “blanch” or make white that portion of the shank. This produces a larger, more succulent useable area of the plant. Do this several times during the season as the plant grows taller. Doing it heavily just once tends to rot the shank.

Irrigation

When watering alliums, keep garden soil moist, but not soggy.  Allow it to dry out somewhat between watering.  Avoid wetting the plant when applying water in order to avoid disease and pests. If possible, irrigate with drip lines, or soaker hoses. If using overhead (sprinkler) irrigation, do it in the morning so the plants dry quickly as the day warms.

Weed control

Weed control is important. None of the alliums like competition, so remove any weeds growing in your garden bed.  Weed carefully between the bulbs, as they are easily bruised.   Because leeks are shallow-rooted, hand pulling is recommended in lieu of using tools. Cultivate lightly to avoid root damage. Applying organic material as mulch can provide a temporary weed barrier adding nutrients to the soil as it degrades.

Planting Requirements and Propagation

Leeks are better as transplants versus direct sowing. A transplantable seedling (10–12 weeks old, 1/4-inch stem diameter) can be raised in intensively broadcast sown flats or nursery beds. Because they are monocots with a vigorous fibrous root system and a narrow, waxy leaf surface, leek transplants can be barerooted with minimal transplant shock.  Grow leeks, which can take up to five months to mature, like long-season onions.

Growing alliums from seed takes patience and persistence (c’mon – we’ve got plenty of that…we’re gardeners after all!).  Germination can be a difficult proposition as seedlings grow slowly and are very sensitive to competitive weeds.  Plant seeds in containers and transplant seedlings into your garden, or plant seeds directly into your garden bed. Sow seeds 1/2” deep, 1/2” apart in rows 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart.  Seeds are tiny, so if you can’t space them apart, sprinkle them along the row and then thin later (if you’re like me, you do NOT like to thin!).  The size you choose to harvest your leeks will determine your spacing: more space in between plants that your intend to grow to a 3-4″ diameter. In my small space gardens and combined with the fact that most of my chefs prefer their leeks at the 1-2″ diameter size, I can get away with planting mine closer together.

Fertilization

Alliums grown in compost enriched soil will not need additional fertilizer. If you wish to fertilize, use a liquid kelp or balanced fertilizer 3 weeks after planting.  Stop fertilizing 6-7 weeks before harvest.



Cornell University Cooperative Extension, "Fertilizing Garden Soil"

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil before planting and seasonally you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL advises, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants nitrogen needs can be met via cover cropping.  Before applying amendment or fertilizer it is always a good idea to do a soil test so that you know exactly what is in or isn’t in your soil. Contact your local County Extension office for information on soil testing. Fertilizer may be either broadcast and worked into the soil before planting time or side dressed two inches to the side and three inches below the seed at the time of planting.

The Quick and Easy Guide to Organic Fertilizers – Cornell University Cooperative Extension

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia)

Pest/Disease Control:

Pests & Disease

Leeks are virtually bulletproof when it comes to pest and disease problems.

Follow this link for some things to watch for: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/onions.html

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop. Unless gardeners refuse to use any pesticides, they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, in the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region:

http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

Harvest/Storage:

Harvest

Leeks are ready for harvest when the bulb is 1” in diameter.  Don’t look for the flags (leek leaves) to turn brown as other alliums do…they stay green. Harvesting is all about size. Most of my chefs prefer to use them on the smaller size. Certainly, in my smaller gardens, harvesting them at a smaller size makes perfect sense. Use a spading fork to loosen the ground around the leeks, then gently pull them from the garden.  Leeks will last longer if left in the ground until ready for use.

Storage

Once harvested, they can be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Favorite Recipes

Fine Cooking

AllRecipes.com

101Cookbooks.com

Epicurious.com

]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2012/03/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-leeks/feed/ 3 http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-artichoke/ http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-artichoke/#comments Sun, 26 Feb 2012 08:59:03 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=954 “Remind me to tell you about the time I looked into the heart of an artichoke.”


Bette Davis as Margo Channing in ‘All About Eve’ (1950)



Family: Cynara scolymus. The artichoke is a member of the milk thistle family and is thought to be native to Arabia, the Mediterranean, Iran, and Turkey.  As early as 500 BC, this vegetable was known in Egypt and Rome as an expensive specialty.  In the 18th century France, it was considered a “culinary privilege” of the aristocracy.  The historical use of the artichoke extends well beyond the realm of kitchen staple and has been used in traditional medicine for centuries as a liver and gallbladder remedy. In some cultural herbal medicine practices, leaves are used for liver and gallbladder problems, diabetes, high cholesterol, hypertension, anemia, diarrhea, fevers, ulcers, and gout. Artichokes are high in antioxidants.



The Healing Power of Rainforest Herbs by Leslie Taylor

Artichoke Varieties

Something to keep in mind: The artichoke does best in frost-free areas having cool, foggy summers. Freezing temperatures kill the buds, and hot, dry conditions destroy their tenderness.

• Green Globe and Green Globe Improved are standard commercial varieties grown in milder climates and is my favorite here in the coastal cities of Southern California.  These larger plants, with many dark green buds with large hearts, do best if plants are maintained for several years (herbaceous perennial).
• In 1991 a new hybrid globe variety, Imperial Star, became available (you can thank the horticulturists at the UC Extension Service for this one!).  It is more uniform than other varieties produced from seed, reportedly does not need as much vernalization (exposure of plants to low temperatures in order to stimulate flowering) as Green Globe, is thornless, and is primarily green, but has some purple tinting. Imperial Star is a medium sized plant, with many dark green buds with small hearts, good disease resistance and is excellent as an annual crop. This variety has performed well in a broad climate range and is currently being grown both in southern California coastal regions and in desert areas in California and Arizona.  Possible seed sources for Imperial Star include: Keithly-Williams Seeds, Contact: Jim Christopherson or Ernie Keithly, 420 Palm Avenue, PO Box 177, Holtville, CA 92250, Phone: 760-356-5533, Fax: 760-356-2409; and: Palmer Seed Co., D., 8269 S Highway 95, Yuma, AZ 85365, Phone: 520-341-8494, Fax: 520-341-8496.
• Another new variety, Emerald (D. Palmer Seed Co.), is also now available. It has been shown to perform in California in both coastal and inland valley conditions which is great news for my San Fernando Valley clients.
• Talpiot -  The Talpiot artichoke is a late season variety that originated in Israel. This strain has been bred in Spain and produces a medium sized plant with leaves that have no spines and very attractive curved edges. The Talpiot produces very uniform spherical heads and grows to a height of between 2-4 ft.
• French artichoke varieties are categorized into three groups as follows:

Brittany artichokes with large green heads (Camus de Bretagne, Camerys, Caribou). There is also a relatively new purple variety that comes from Brittany. They are so named because of its truncated, spherical shape.
Midi artichokes with violet leaves that come from the South of France (Violet de Provence, Violet de Hyères, Violet du Gapeau)
Secondary varieties classified between Camus and the purple varieties (Blanc Hyerois).

• Italian artichokes come mainly from the provinces of Puglia, Sicily, Sardinia, and Tuscany. The four main varieties are as follows:

Catanese, which are medium large, cylindrical, with closed heads and green outer leaves shading into violet.
Romanesco are large, spherical, and closed-headed, with a characteristic opening at the top, and green leaves under an opaque reddish violet colour.
Spinoso Sardo is a medium large conical shape, with a closed head and violet-green leaves that taper to a point, and with a large thorn.
Violetto di Toscana is a medium-large elliptical closed head, with violet leaves and dark green shading on the inside.

• Globe artichokes can be beautiful as features in the landscape too! Some varieties include the following:

Green Globe, as above;
Gros Camus de Bretagne, which is only suitable for warmer climates, but having large good tasting heads;
Purple Globe, which is hardier than the green ones, but not as tasty;
Purple Sicilian, which is a deep purple and excellent eaten raw when they are very young;
Vert de Laon, and Violetta di Chioggia, purple varieties that make excellent border plants. I included these beauties in my edible flower arrangements for the tables at mar’sel’s dinner at the James Beard House in NYC last month! Gorgeous in the garden!



Edible arrangement for mar'sel's James Beard dinner in NYC. See the beautiful Violetta Di Romanga in the back?

• Violetta Di Romagna – is a tender and tasty Italian heirloom artichoke with nice firm flesh. These seeds produce a large thornless plant with silvery-grey leaves and a medium sized rounded violet head of tender, fleshy bracts. This variety is grown traditionally in Northern Italy and should perform well in colder climates. When picked young this variety produces very little inedible choke compared to other heirlooms. Its spineless plants grow up to 5’ tall with silvery foliage for a dramatic statement at the back of the garden so it’s a smash with edible landscapers like me. Its purple color fades when cooked.
• Shorter season varieties that are more likely to flower and winter over in East Coast regions include:

Imperial Star – as above

Grande Buerre – Developed in Great Britain, this variety has spineless heads and grows up to 9 feet tall. Grown from seed.

For trial: Northern Star, developed by Peters Seed & Research, is supposed to be perennial without protection even where winter lows go below zero. It was developed by Doug Peters of Peters Seed & Research. Unfortunately, none of my research has turned up a seed source.

Violetta Di Romagna – as above

More Resources on Varieties

Here is an interesting article including a wonderful photo gallery on nine different artichoke varieties from Saveur magazine.
Here’s a great blog on Italian variety artichokes: http://theartichokeblog.com/






Always harvest your artichokes with stems (they're edible too - see recipe section for cooking tips). Courtesy of whiteonricecouple.com.




Climatic Requirements

Artichokes do best in a frost-free coastal area with cool foggy summers. In these conditions the plant receives the proper vernalization and the right conditions throughout its growing period to produce tight, tender buds for an extended period. Proper climatic conditions are extremely important in being successful in growing artichokes. This is why it is critical to find the variety of artichoke best suited for your region. I have been successful in growing Green Globe and Imperial Star artichokes on the coast of Southern California in sandy soil but I’ve also successfully grown them in the heavy clay soil and hotter summers of the San Fernando Valley. In addition to selecting the right variety, soil amendment and good site selection are key when growing in harsher climates. Though I would plant artichokes in full sun on the coast, I might select a part sun location (morning sun) in the hotter areas of the San Fernando Valley.



Considered a cool-season crop, they grow best at a 75°F daytime temperature mean with 55°F nighttime temperatures. They have an effective adaptive range of 45° to 85°F.  As noted above, Emerald appears to require very little vernalization.



In some regions where hotter mid-summer temperatures are experienced, late summer and early fall planting should be planned to avoid fast flower stalk growth and poor quality. Imperial Star is reported to be tolerant of warm summer temperatures. A hot dry climate causes artichoke buds to open quickly and destroys the tenderness of the edible parts. In the summer, irrigation may be used to keep temperatures down in the crop canopy to prevent bud opening.



Care must be taken that artichokes are not exposed to temperatures below 25 F in the winter. Where this happens, straw mulching is recommended. In these regions, you can chop off the stalks in the fall after the last harvest and lay a mulch before the first frost to over winter. At temperatures under 15 F expect severe loss of crowns even with mulch protection. At temperatures near or below freezing the outer skin of the bud scales ruptures, making the bud blistered with a whitish appearance. After a few days the blistered skin turns dark but this won’t effect flavor.



Soil Requirements

Artichokes are deep-rooted plants adapted to a wide range of soil types, but will perform best in well-drained, deep soil high in organic matter with a pH between 6.5 and 8.0. The extremes of heavy clay and light sandy soils should be avoided. Raised-beds are recommended where drainage is poor as in areas with heavy clay. Using raised beds will result in warmer soil temperatures in the spring and faster establishment. The artichoke is a perennial, so prepare the soil well before planting. Mix manure, compost, or other organic matter into the first foot of soil in about equal amounts.



Cultural Practices

Irrigation

A minimum of 1-inch water/week is required. Artichokes require frequent irrigation during the growing season, and water stress results in loose buds. However artichokes absolutely won’t tolerate being water logged so planting in well draining soil is essential. Irrigate more often in warm areas and less often in areas with heavy soil.



Weed control

Shallow cultivation and hand-pulling are the preferred methods.



Planting Requirements

Transplanting nursery starts is the preferred method of getting these beautiful plants into your home garden. Remember that these plants need leg and arm room! They develop a long tap root so make sure you’re giving them enough depth as well as enough room to spread out their growing foliage. Width required depends on variety but leaving about 3 feet on center between plants in a home garden or landscape is usually fine. I use the shade this plant will cast as shelter for smaller, more heat sensitive plants that I plant around it. Like any nursery stock you purchase, select plants carefully.


Organic Seed Sources:
http://attra.ncat.org/sorg/seeds.html

Propagation

Two methods of propagating artichokes are available to the home gardener. Few artichokes breed true to seed so divisions are usually taken to multiply the plants, similar to starting rhubarb. A healthy plant can be dug up, the root divided into two or more parts and replanted. These divisions or offshoots are planted about 6 inches deep so that the tops are flush with the soil surface. While individual plants may live up to 15 years or more, divide about every 3 years to keep planting productive.

Planting from seed is not recommended because results are not predictable and usually inferior to parent plants. But if you do, start seeds about 8 to 12 weeks before last frost. Harden off in cold frame. Plants require 2-3 months to reach transplantable size. Cold treatment of starts (keeping temperature between 35 F and 50 F for about 10 days) can induce flowering in first-year plants. Transplant outside after soil has reached 60 F.  It is not uncommon to have no flowering the first year.

Fertilization

Artichokes are heavy feeders that develop large foliage and require additional nitrogen fertilization during the growing season. In areas where plants can produce all year around, feed them in the fall with a high nitrogen fertilizer. In cold areas, feed in the spring. Use a side-dressing to fertilize. Apply approximately 1/10 pound of an organic nitrogen source per plant when the new crown growth begins. This equals 1 pound (2 cups) of a 10 percent nitrogen fertilizer. During the harvest season, apply 1/4 to 1/3 of the above amounts monthly. I use blood meal (using care not to over apply) and then bone meal six to eight weeks after harvest to help promote development of  late buds.  In my garden at mar’sel restaurant at Terranea Resort, on the bluffs of Rancho Palos Verdes, we’re on our 3rd harvest, having transplanted those plants (Green Globe and Imperial Star) last fall.



I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil before planting and seasonally you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants nitrogen needs can be met via cover cropping.  Before applying amendment or fertilizer it is always a good idea to do a soil test so that you know exactly what is in or isn’t in your soil. Contact your local County Extension office for information on soil testing. Fertilizer may be either broadcast and worked into the soil before planting time or side dressed two inches to the side and three inches below the seed at the time of planting.

The Quick and Easy Guide to Organic Fertilizers – Cornell University Cooperative Extension

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia)

Overwintering

Since artichokes are a perennial plant, it can be overwintered in most areas. After the plant has finish producing, I cut the stalk back to about 6 inches above ground. Mulch thoroughly with a 2″ layer of organic mulch or place under hoop houses.  Another alternative is to dig roots and store in a cold (but not freezing) room. Pot up about a month before transplanting out after last frost.




Violet artichokes of Perinaldo. Courtesy of http://theartichokeblog.com/





Pest/Disease Control

Pests & Disease:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.artichoke.html


The primary insect pests observed are aphids, spider mites and powdery mildew a common disease. See the link above for full diagnosis and treatment of both pests and diseases from UC Davis IPM.



Aphids – A hard stream of water can be used to remove aphids from plants. Wash off with water occasionally as needed early in the day. Spraying with organic horticultural oil is also effective as long as applied regularly and thoroughly. Check for evidence of natural enemies such as gray-brown or bloated parasitized aphids and the presence of alligator-like larvae of lady beetles and lacewings.



In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:



-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?



Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop. Unless gardeners refuse to use any pesticides, they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.



A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.



A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region:

http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.



Harvest/Storage

According to UC Davis: Harvesting begins with the maturing of the first buds in fall and continues normally through the following spring unless interrupted by frost. Peak production occurs in spring.
Handle buds carefully during harvest to avoid bruising bud leaves. Cut artichokes from their stems about 1 to 1-1/2 inches below the bud base. Use immediately or refrigerate as soon as possible after harvesting. Artichokes may be stored for 1 to2 weeks at 32°F. Buds allowed to become over mature will be loose, fibrous and inedible. However, artichoke blossoms are gorgeous as fresh or dried flowers and attracts pollinators.



Did you know that prepared and cooked, whole artichokes freeze well? Yes they do! To freeze only the hearts, first clean, discard tough outer leaves until you see “pale green” leaves, and cut off tips. Next blanch in boiling water for 2–3 minutes, immerse immediately in cold water, and freeze for later use.





Grilled artichoke stems with tarragon garlic butter, a edible extension of the heart. Courtesy of Whiteonricecouple.com




Recipes:

Artichokes cooked in ash: David Rocco – Cooking Channel
Grilled Artichoke Stems – from our dear friends Whiteonricecouple.com
Watch this fun video with Mark Bittman and Isaac Mizrahi kibitzing while teaching us how to braise artichokes!
Here’s a link to great party snack ideas: http://www.artichokes.org/recipes.html

]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-cool-season-crops-artichoke/feed/ 11 http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-strawberries/ http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-strawberries/#comments Fri, 10 Feb 2012 08:12:46 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=2597

“Strawberry fields forever.” The Beatles

Ahhh, strawberries. There’s probably no other fruit that stirs little girl memories like strawberries! Whimsical girlhood memories of Strawberry Shortcake dolls and strawberry scented everything from lipgloss to bubblebath. Oh, and the strawberry milkshakes of a time in my life before milkshakes topped my “DON’T” list.  It’s not surprising then that I am taken back to those memories with every strawberry I plant.

Family – Rosaceae Genus- Fragaria

Did you know that strawberries are in the same family of the rose flower (Rosaceae) and are really not considered a fruit? The part we eat does not consist of the plant’s ovaries (the common definition of fruit), but of the hypanthium (a saucer-shaped structure that holds the ovaries)!
• Short-day (June-bearing) varieties start forming flower buds as the day length gets shorter and temperatures get cooler. These varieties essentially produce in the late fall, winter and especially in early spring when days are short.
• Day-neutral (Everbearing) types produce fruit spring through fall. Everbearing or day neutral varieties– produce two crops, one in June or July and other in the fall. Everbearing or day-neutral varieties are insensitive to day length and produce fruit throughout the season as long as night-time temperatures drop below 60° F (Strand, 1993). Day‐neutrals – produce fruit almost continuously through the growing season except when it is very hot. The fruit of everbearers and day‐neutrals typically is smaller, and total seasonal yields often are lower than those of June bearers.

NOTE – IF GROWING FOR PRODUCTION – Remove the flower stalks of Short-Day (June-bearing) strawberry plants as they appear throughout the first growing season. More production can be expected if the plants are allowed to attain large size before fruiting. Remove the blossoms of Day-Neutral (Everbearing) types of plants as they appear until about the middle of June (first year only). Then allow flowers to set fruit for harvest during the remainder of the season (August through October).


Cultivar recommendations are difficult with strawberries because they tend to be very site specific. Below are some UC Davis recommendations for California:

Short-Day Strawberries

* Douglas. Early producer; berries very large, good color, good flavor, conical; typically a winter-planted cultivar, planted the first 2 weeks of October.
* Pajaro. Berries dark red, large, conical, good flavor; principally a summer-planted cultivar used in northern California, planted in August and September.
* Chandler. Berries exceptional in flavor, color, and size; typically a winter-planted cultivar, but have also been bare-root planted in mid-August.
* Camarosa. Berries large, excellent flavor; for winter planting.
* Sequoia. Berries large, soft, excellent flavor; resistant to Verticillium wilt.

Day-Neutral Strawberries

* Selva. Berries exceptionally firm, mild flavor, must be fully red before harvesting; high-yielding; should not be planted before September 10 for optimal performance.
* Muir. Berries conical, better flavor than Selva and lighter in color.
* Irvine. Berries conical, medium-sized, excellent flavor; winter-planted.
* Fern. Berries medium-sized, excellent quality; strongly day-neutral; excellent potential for home gardens because it produces all season long (July-November); plant in the spring as soon as the ground is workable.
* Hecker. Berries abundant, small to medium-sized, mild flavor, deep red; produces throughout the year; plant in late fall to spring.

Here is a great link to National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service (ATTRA) w/ variety selections for other regions of the US. Please contact your county’s cooperative extension office Master Gardener Hotline to get recommendations for your area.
http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/strawberry.html#apxb

Soil Requirements

Choose a well-drained location in full sun. Strawberries are shallow-rooted and grow best in sandy loam soils, which drain well, are well-supplied with humus and have a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. If you haven’t done so recently, take a soil test several months in advance so that you are aware of any deficiencies within enough time before planting to take corrective action.

Clay soils drain poorly and are harder to manage but can be improved by adding organic matter. Leaves, chopped straw, compost, rotted sawdust or grass clippings can be used to improve soil structure. Manure applied at 2 to 3 bushels/100 square feet is a good source of organic matter. Apply the organic matter in the fall. Dig it into the soil then so the material will be well decomposed by planting time in early spring. Please use this link to more information regarding how to apply manure safely in your garden:
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html#manures
Clearing weeds well before planting is very important.

Fertilizing

Before planting, broadcast organic fertilizer over the plots. Spade in 3 pounds of 10-10-10 organic fertilizer (contains micronutrients) per 100 square feet of bed.
If new plants appear light green and do not grow well, sidedress with a organic nitrogen fertilizer (blood or bonemeal) about one month after planting. Be careful not to over-apply as excess nitrogen can burn plants (especially true of Blood Meal as this is pure nitrogen).

Phosphorus-deficient plants are usually dark green with reddish-purple leaf tips and margins. At low pH or in sandy soils, magnesium deficiency may occur. Magnesium deficiency can appear as yellow to white striping between veins of leaves. Older leaves become reddish-purple and leaf tips may die.

Commonly used organic sources of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are bloodmeal (~15% N), bonemeal (~4% N and 21% P2O5), and soybean meal (7% N and 2.3% K2O). Many gardeners choose to use poultry litter or commercially available poultry-litter based products. For example, a 3-2-3 or 3-2-2 poultry litter product can be applied before planting. A blended fertilizer or bonemeal mix (10-10-10) can also be used. A liquid fish-emulsion and seaweed product (average analysis of 4-1-1) may then be used for sidedressing.

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as manure or compost to the soil you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants N needs can be met via cover cropping.

Cultural Practices


Planting:
Strawberry pots, raised beds…both are great ways to plant. Here are two other techniques used in strawberry production:

Matted Row System (low input): Matted row strawberry plantings may bear fruit for more than one season, and may be kept for two or possibly 3 to 4 fruiting seasons if properly renovated*. The matted row system involves planting the mother plants 2 feet apart the first spring then letting runners fill the bed the first summer. The flowers are removed the first year, so no fruit is produced until the second year.

*Renovation or Renewing the Planting: Matted row strawberry plantings may bear fruit for more than one season, and may be kept for two or possibly three to four fruiting seasons if properly renovated. The main purpose of renovation is to keep plants from becoming too crowded in beds. Do not attempt to renew strawberry beds infested with weeds, diseases or insects; it is better to set a new planting.
To renew a planting follow these four steps:

* Broadcast 3 to 4 pounds of a complete organic fertilizer (10-10-10) per 100 feet of row.
* Mow off the leaves, rake away from plants and dispose of them (take your rotary lawn mower and mow over top of bed, setting blade about 4 inches). Avoid damaging the crowns.
* Cut back rows with a cultivator, rototiller or hoe to a strip 12 to 18 inches wide.
* Thin the plants leaving only the most healthy and vigorous. Plants should be about 6 inches apart in all directions.

Annual Hill System (high input): Strawberry plants can be set in the fall and harvested the next spring. This reduces the danger of diseases destroying the crop. Plants are set 12 inches apart in the row and 12 inches apart between rows on beds that contain two rows.

The beds should be 6 inches high at the shoulder and 8 inches high in the center and 26 inches wide. An aisle 22 inches wide between beds should be provided as a place to walk.

When soil moisture conditions are ideal for planting, lay off two rows that are 4 feet apart. Each of the rows should be 2 feet from the edge of the bed. Set the plants 2 feet apart in the rows at the correct depth so the base of the crown is at soil level. Press the soil firmly around the roots and water them in.

A couple of weeks after the new plants begin to grow, flowers will appear. Remove these flowers in the spring of the first year. This improves establishment and channels food reserves into the production of vigorous runners. During the summer of establishment, allow the strawberry runners to develop to form the matted row.

Irrigation:


Freshly dug plants are planted and watered intensively for the first week after planting due to their shallow root system. Potted plants can also be used and require less watering to establish. Watering: Strawberries require moisture during the following “critical” times:

* When plants are set and during dry periods following setting;
* Just before harvest and during harvest when berry size appears to be suffering;
* After renovation, as needed, to encourage new runner plant;
* In late August, September and early October when fruit buds are forming for the next season’s crop. If rainfall is insufficient during these times, then water the plantings on a weekly basis to wet the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Drip irrigation is always best.

Weed Control and Mulching: During the growing season, control weeds by mulching and handpulling. Mulching and handpulling are the best means of control in a small planting. During the winter and spring months, periodically check the planting for the development of winter weeds that should be removed. In late winter mulch the bed with a 1- to 2- inch layer of straw (wheat, oat, rye, pine). One bale will cover 100 square feet. Do not use grass clippings because they will smother the strawberry plants.

Remove the straw in the spring when there are signs of new growth. Rake most of the needles off the tops of the plants. The strawberry plants will grow up through the needles, which will help keep the berries from getting soiled. A good layer of mulch prevents bitter rot and hard rot and slows anthracnose spread in addition to keeping the berries clean.

Organic Pest/Disease Control


Pest Management

Bird Control
Because there is not much food available for birds when strawberries ripen, birds can be a serious problem. The most effective method to keep them from getting most of the fruit is to cover the planting with bird netting. The net will have to be anchored all the way around the planting, otherwise the birds will walk under it. To anchor the net, place 6- to 8-inch stakes around the planting every 2 feet. Angle the stakes out away from the rows so that the net can be hooked over the stakes. This will keep the edge of the net close to the ground and keep the birds from getting under the net. It takes only a few minutes to remove the net for picking and to replace it after you are through.

Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site about some common pests and diseases of strawberries in California: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.strawberry.html

Disease Management
Strawberries are grown in many parts of So. California by home gardeners as a perennial crop. Anthracnose, root-knot nematode, Pythium, Rhizoctonia root and crown rot, Mycosphaerella and Diplocarpon leaf spots, and Botrytis fruit rot can be problems for homeowners.

Rhizoctonia Root & Crown Rot: The root rot phase of this disease is favored by cool weather while the crown rot is worse during hot weather. Plants typically collapse just as fruiting starts. Bottoms of leaves are purple and curl up. The original crown is killed, and numerous side crowns may develop. This disease can be prevented by crop rotation with grass crops. The disease may be introduced with plants obtained from friends or an unknown source. Therefore, it is important to purchase disease-free plants from a reputable nursery.

Red Stele Root Rot or Phytophthora Root Rot: The fungi Phytophthora fragariae and P. cactorum cause this major disease. Plants with severe root rot are often stunted and they may wilt in hot weather. Little or no fruit is produced and plants eventually may die. The most characteristic root symptom is a reddish discoloration of the stele (core). To minimize the risk of red stele, plant resistant cultivars or certified disease-free plants and avoid low, wet sites. You can look at my Plant Disease photo album for pictures of this disease.

Phomopsis Leaf Blight: Phomopsis leaf spot has become increasingly important in Southern regions of the US in recent years. The disease starts to develop in the fall or spring shortly after planting. It spreads rapidly and can kill much of the foliage. It remains active as long as there is green foliage on the plants. If plants become dormant in the winter, the disease will start again in the spring.

Early symptoms are one-six circular, red to purple spots on leaflets. Spots enlarge and develop grey centers. Older spots along veins develop into large V-shaped lesions. Fruit and calyx infection also occurs. The fungus survives in dead leaves attached to the plants. Fruit infection is prevented by controlling foliar infection.

Botrytis Fruit Rot: Botrytis fruit rot is the most common and important fruit disease in many regions of the US. While rot can start on any part of the fruit, it usually starts on the calyx end or the side of fruits touching infected fruits. Affected fruit becomes light brown. The fungus can also invade all other plant parts. Survival of the fungus occurs in infected tissue and in small, oval, black sclerotia on the ground or plants. It germinates in the spring when bloom starts and infects bloom parts. From these it moves into the fruit and may rot it immediately, or be dormant until the fruit ripens. The disease is most severe in wet weather.

The key to control is preventing fall infection of winter leaves, removal of dying leaves in late winter before the addition of mulch and protection of the blooms with an organic fungicide. Several organic growers actually vacuum up dead leaves using shop vacuum cleaners. Using strict sanitation, organic growers have successfully produced berries without using fungicides.

Angular Leaf Spot: This leaf spot bacterium survives in dead plant tissue. The disease starts as small, angular, water-soaked spots on the bottom of the leaves. Spots enlarge but are limited by the veins. Spots are translucent when viewed with transmitted light but dark green when viewed with reflected light. Spots coalesce to cover large portions of the leaf and appear as irregular reddish brown spots on the top of the leaf. Heavily infected leaves usually die. The disease is favored by wet weather with day temperatures of 70 ºF and night temperatures near or below freezing. The disease usually stops as temperatures rise in the spring. There is no chemical control for this disease. If the bacteria are introduced, use crop rotation. One year is sufficient.

Leaf Spot and Leaf Scorch: Leaf spot and leaf scorch, caused by the fungi Mycosphaerella fragariae and Diplocarpon earliana, respectively, cause about the same type of damage and are spread in a similar manner. The spores of each fungus are usually brought into a field on new plants or spread to new areas by insects, birds or farm equipment. Both fungi survive the winter on infected plants.

Leaf spot shows up first on the upper leaf surface as a tiny, round purple spot about one-eighth inch in diameter. At first, the whole spot is purple. Later, the center of the spot becomes gray and then almost white. The border remains purple.

Leaf scorch forms small, dark purple spots on upper leaf surfaces. These spots remain dark purple. A white center is never formed as with leaf spot. The spots have an irregular outline. When numerous, the spots run together and leaves appear to be scorched.

The loss of foliage due to these two diseases can stunt the entire plant. Severely infected plants may die. During early spring rains, spores from just a few diseased plants can multiply and spread through an entire planting.

Anthracnose: The fungi causing anthracnose infect stolons, petioles, crowns, fruit and leaves. Small dark lesions appear on stolons and petioles in the summer and girdle them, killing the leaves and unrooted daughter plants. The fungus grows from the infected petioles and stolons into the crown of the plant, causing a reddish-brown firm rot and the plants wilt and die. The fungus causes round, brown, firm sunken spots on fruit. Normally, death of plants occurs the year after infection occurs. Buying disease-free plants is the best control measure. Once the disease is present, strict sanitation (removal of diseased plant material), mulching and spraying fungicides every five to seven days can result in a 50- to 70-percent harvest.

Prevention in Organic Systems

Prevention of disease through good cultural practices is the most effective means for healthy crop production. To help prevent foliar fungal diseases, keep foliage as dry as possible by watering early in the day so foliage dries quickly, or by using drip irrigation. To reduce soil borne diseases, rotate herbs to different parts of the field each year and remove and destroy all plant debris after final harvest.

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?
-Is there a nutrient imbalance?
-Is the soil too wet or too dry?
-Has a good crop rotation been followed?
-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?
Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop. Unless gardeners refuse to use any pesticides, they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia) http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C853/C853.htm
A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.
Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region:
http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

Harvest/Storage


Harvest:
You should pick strawberries every other day or three times a week. Pick the fruit with about one-quarter of the stem attached. The best time to pick is in early morning when berries are still cool. Not all berries ripen at the same time; pick only those which are fully red.

Storage:
Strawberries are extremely perishable, having a max storage life of only 5-7 days at 32 F and 95 % relative humidity.
Strawberries can be washed, drained, covered, and stored in the refrigerator for later use. After rinsing in a colander under running water, I store them in the frig laying flat in a single layer covered with a moistened paper towel. Leave the caps of the berries on until after they are washed to prevent water from soaking into the berry.

Bits and Pieces



via Whiteonricecouple.com Photo by tdphotography.com

My favorite strawberry drink recipes:
http://www.nj.com/insidejersey/index.ssf/2009/07/strawberry_fields.html
Strawberry Mojito – whiteonricecouple.com
Strawberry Agua Fresca
See the GroEdibles Blog: How to Plan and Plant a Cocktail Garden-scroll down to the Vodka Infusion – Strawberry, Lemon, Mint, Cucumber, Lavender, Red Flame Grape recipe.

Videos

This video from the New York Botanical garden shows you how to plant herbs in your strawberry pot (she goes over her way to plant strawberries in these pots too) complete with a way to ensure good drainage in these pots.


Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply


And a beautiful video from WhiteonRiceCouple.com TD Photographers:


]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2012/02/spotlight-edible-of-the-day-strawberries/feed/ 0 http://www.groedibles.com/2012/01/whats-in-a-teaspoon-of-soil-the-care-and-feeding-of-your-precious-soil-food-web/ http://www.groedibles.com/2012/01/whats-in-a-teaspoon-of-soil-the-care-and-feeding-of-your-precious-soil-food-web/#comments Sun, 29 Jan 2012 08:01:24 +0000 HGEL http://localhost:8888/myhgel/?p=55

In our preparation for spring, a review of the nitrogen-fixing duet between legumes and rhizobium bacteria and the Soil Food Web is in order:

The Soil Food Web…

What is it?

The soil food web is the community of organisms living all or part of their lives in the soil. This food web diagram shows a series of conversions (represented by arrows) of energy and nutrients as one organism eats another.

Soil organisms support plant health as they decompose organic matter, cycle nutrients, enhance soil structure, and control the populations of soil organisms including crop pests.



Where is it?

Most of these organisms live in the top 3 inches of soil!

WOW, IT’S CROWDED IN THERE!

PER TEASPOON of healthy soil plus organic matter, the following organisms – most of whose names are not known to scientists – are found:

- 1 million (in arid soils) to 1 billion bacteria

(in forest soils). Bacteria break down easy to-use organic material (sugars, proteins, carbohydrates), retain nutrients, like N, P, and K in the soil and combat disease causing organisms.

Productive garden soil should contain more bacteria than any other kind of organism, although care must be taken to make sure beneficial bacteria, instead of disease-causing bacteria, are most prevalent. How

do you do that? By feeding the foods the suppressive bacteria like. That also means, no nitrate fertilizers (which selects for the disease-causing bacteria and fungi) and no compaction (that means poorly

structured soils, and reduced oxygen levels which help the root-rot fungi more than anything else).

- 150 to 500 micrograms of fungal hyphae

Fungi break down the more  difficult-to-decompose, organic matter (like newspaper, cardboard, bark, sawdust, corn stalks) and retain those nutrients in the soil as fungal biomass. Just like bacteria, fungal

waste products become soil organic matter, which are used by other organisms. Gardens require some fungal biomass for greatest productivity, but in order for best CROP growth, there should be an

equal biomass of bacteria as compared to fungi. As with bacteria, we need to feed the “good-guy” fungi, not the “bad-guys.” Feed the soil complex mixtures of humic acids and algae, and avoid nitrate fertilizers

and prevent soil compaction.

- 10,000 to 100,000 protozoa

These organisms are one-celled, highly mobile organisms that feed on bacteria and on each other. Because protozoa require 5 to 10-fold less nitrogen than bacteria, N is released when a protozoan eats a bacterium. That released N is then

available for plants to take up. Between 40 and 80% of the N in plants can come from the predator-prey interaction of protozoa with bacteria.

- 15 to 500 beneficial nematodes

Beneficial nematodes eat bacteria, fungi, and other nematodes. Nematodes need even less nitrogen than protozoa, between 10 and 100 times less than a bacterium contains, or between 5 and 50 times less than fungal hyphae contains. Thus when

bacterial- or fungal-feeding nematodes eat bacteria or fungi, nitrogen is released, making that N available for plant growth. However, plant-feeding nematode are pests because they eat plant roots. These ”bad” nematodes can be controlled biologically, as they are in natural systems, by fungi that trap nematodes, by having fungi that colonize root systems and prevent nematode attack of roots, or by predation of nematodes by arthropods. In cases of extreme outbreaks, however, the only answer may be the use chemicals to control these plant-feeding nematodes. However, once a chemical is used which kills the beneficial nematodes as well as the plant-feeding ones, the beneficial nematodes need to be replaced through inoculation. What inoculants are there for these beneficial fungi? Compost, and compost tea are the only commercially available sources of the whole community of these beneficial nematodes, or protozoa, for that matter.

- A few to several hundred thousand microarthropods

These organisms chew the plant leaf material, roots, stems and boles of trees into smaller pieces, making it easier for bacteria and fungi to find the food they like on the newly revealed surfaces. The “comminuting”arthropods can increase decomposition rates by 2 – 100 times, although

if the bacteria or fungi are lacking, increased decomposition will not occur because it takes ALL the organisms working together to make nutrient cycling work. In many cases, however, the arthropods carry around an inoculum of bacteria and fungi, making certain the food they want (bacteria and fungi) are inoculated onto the newly exposed surfaces! Because the C:N ratio of arthropods is 100 times greater than the bacteria and fungi, they release nitrogen which then is available for plant growth. Some arthropods eat pest insects, while others eat roots. Again, it’s important to encourage the beneficial ones and discourage the ones that eat plants!

(source: http://www.agroforestry.net/overstory/overstory81.html)

HOW DO WE CARE TAKE OF IT?



Cornell University Cooperative Extension "Fertilizing Garden Soil"

1) Add organic compost regularly (no need to dig in…can be just as effective used as a mulch)

2) No pesticides (even the organic ones can be harmful to these critters so use only when absolutely necessary)

3) NO SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS. If you’re adding compost regularly, you may need to do very little fertilizing (our goal), but if you do…only organic please . Synthetic fertilizers break the relationship between plants and soil organisms and excess amounts of the most mobile of nutrients (N) can be a source of pollution in run-off causing ‘dead zones’ in bodies of water and has been connected to stomach cancer.

4) Do not compact soil and do not over-work (till) the soil.




NOTE:

Using a COVER CROP is a wonderful way to bring an organic source of nitrogen back into your soil and re-invigorate your soil food web. Check out the links listed next to the edible legumes below and research the cover crops in the links below to determine what will work in your zone.

There are 2 ways to increase the natural occurring nitrogen in your soil:

1) planting a cover crop (http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1824/eb1824.html , http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/

http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html#green)       -OR-

2) planting rotating crops of legumes

In the edible garden the (Fabaceae) Legumes Family include:

Peas (http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene9697.html)

Beans (http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scenef57c.html and http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene8f63.html)

- Green Bean, Split Pea, Yellow Pea, Green Pea, Snow Pea, Black-eyed Pea, Chickpea, Broad Bean, Lima Bean, Fava Bean, Navy Bean, Red Kidney Bean, Great Northern Bean, Pinto Bean, Adzuki Beans, Mung Beans, Soy Bean, Brown Lentil, Green Lentil, Red Lentil, Black Lentil.

BUT, remember without a healthy soil food web (which includes the bacteria that make the nitrogen-fixing possible for these plants) none of this is possible.

Soil Bacteria:

• Brady-rhizobium fixes nitrogen via root nodules, releasing N to the host plant.


Root Nodules

• Azobactoriaceae: Nitrogen fixation w/out nodules on non-legume plants.

Soil Microorganism:

Fungi

• Fungi are responsible for most of soil fertility.
• Decompose just about anything and release the nutrients contained within the materials, back to the plant.
• Work horse: bind soil particles, soil tilth

Mycorrhizae

• Live in and around the root zone of plants, extending far out from the plant’s roots with their own network of thread- like filaments known as hyphae.
• Evolved in association with plants.
• Increase the ability of plants to take up water and certain nutrients.
• Protecting associated plants from pests and diseases.
• Cannot survive long in bare-soil.
• Cannot survive long in bare-soil conditions.
• Cannot thrive in conditions where soluble fertilizers have been used continually for many years.

Strategies for Improving Mycorrhizae Activity on Your Site:

1) Use green manures and mulch.

2) Refrain from using chemical fertilizers, w/high levels of phosphorous.

3) If the soils are degraded, consider adding quality compost.

4) For degraded sites, inoculate with commercially-available mycorrhizae.

Manage your soil organically by using organic compost (your own is best)….use organic mulch…do not overwork soil…

Some interesting links for you dirt nerds out there:

Life in the Soil – Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations: http://www.fao.org/Ag/Magazine/0011sp1.htm

http://www.groedibles.com/resources/fallwinter-gardening/#SOIL_PREPARATION

http://www.groedibles.com/resources/springsummer-gardening/

http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html

Some interesting videos on Mycorrhizae and Rhizobium Symbiosis:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1R_pO_uMBDw&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bq1bTduTzC0&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENP2dLd9JqI&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UusQ4i4FNu0&feature=related

http://www.ecoversity.org/tv/tv-melendrez.html

]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2012/01/whats-in-a-teaspoon-of-soil-the-care-and-feeding-of-your-precious-soil-food-web/feed/ 4 http://www.groedibles.com/2011/12/my-gardens-gift-to-me/ http://www.groedibles.com/2011/12/my-gardens-gift-to-me/#comments Mon, 12 Dec 2011 10:18:22 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=1336 As I was looking through my older posts (auld lang syne, my friends), I came across this post which was actually written in late December 2009. I thought it made a wonderful holiday greeting, so here it is again, dear HGELers…your holiday card from me!

My garden gifts me wonderful things all year long, but this year I think it sensed I needed a bit more…maybe a sign?

As an edible landscaper, I have a front yard plant pallette that includes many beautiful edibles; cool season veg in striking colors of all greens from emerald to sea foam and all reds from bronze to true red.  There are lettuces, kale, spinach, fennel, dill, onions, garlic (even two cold tolerant tomato plants)…a veritable collection of plants that nearly flash an “EAT HERE” sign to egg-bearing Lepidoptera (moths and butterflies).


In my teaching, I’ve espoused a practical view of our roles as home farmers in our natural world; that we plant “one for the farmer and two for the critters”. We strive to control damaging pests, never eliminate them which is both impossible and unwise as it puts our soil food web out of balance with nature.  Of course, there are situations that call for a different course of more invasive action that includes organic insecticides – always as a last resort. 

Having this “caterpillar buffet” out in my fall and winter garden this year, I was “armed and ready” for Cat Warfare! Funny thing though…they didn’t show up.  So I disarmed and relaxed.  Always watchful when it comes to my garden, I did keep looking for signs of disease and pests, but something was different.  I was calm because I was listening to my garden in a way I hadn’t before. Yeah, I know…you’re thinking ”she’s finally cracked”…”she’s over the edge”.  “Next her plants will be talking to her!”. No, not quite at least not with words. Maybe some of you know what I mean.  We, my garden and I, were in balance.  Soil was healthy. Companion plants were doing their jobs.  Plants had everything they needed. A very wise man, a man beyond his time once said: We know more about the movement of celestial bodies than about the soil underfoot (Leonardo da Vinci, circa 1500s).  When we truly “listen” to the nature around us, underneath us, stop fighting it and start working with it, that is when the magic happens. I just let my garden do it’s thing.

One day, I noticed some new visitors on my fennel plant…



These are Black Swallowtail butterfly larvae! The fennel plant is so big that these guys (I counted four) really weren’t doing much damage.  The plant didn’t seem to mind so neither did I!

One day last week, I took my camera out to take a holiday garden picture.  I took this picture of an inspirational sign I’ve had for years in my gardens. Here’s what I saw…



If this isn’t a message from my garden, then I just don’t know what is!  I felt filled with the spirit of the holiday more intensely than from any of my usual rituals (putting up lights, decorating the tree, wrapping gifts).  This was something very pure…very personal.  Maybe only gardeners will understand this.

And a few days later…another gift!  Chris, the Christmas Caterpillar, (yes, I named him!) went into chrysalis on Christmas Day! Chris pupated for about 10 days.



Now, as in most messages from nature…interpretation is in the eye of the beholder.  If I was a purely practical, linear thinker this would just be a convergence of the most natural occurrences leading to the most logical outcomes: the host plant’s proximity to the BELIEVE sign and the creature’s natural instinct to find the most sturdy, upright object on which to attach its chrysalis. But…if I were a romantic (duh), I had to be struck by the poetry in this…and I certainly was.

As I visited Chris daily to monitor his progress, I was reminded about what this metamorphosis represents to me…

Transformation – out of ugliness, beauty comes.
Rebirth – from its darkness, this creature reemerges in sunlight.
New beginnings. New possibilities.


I will think of what my garden gave me this Holiday Season as I near the end of this year.  A lesson of balance, peace, acceptance, calm and…love.

I send my best wishes to you for a very happy new year and an equally happy garden.



Posted by Geri Miller – HGEL at 12/27/2009 12:01 PM
Categories: Happy New Year
Tags: companion planting inspiration soil ammendments Master Gardener edible gardens Fall/Winter gardening
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]]> http://www.groedibles.com/2011/12/my-gardens-gift-to-me/feed/ 1 http://www.groedibles.com/2011/11/our-favorite-better-angels-and-how-to-support-them/ http://www.groedibles.com/2011/11/our-favorite-better-angels-and-how-to-support-them/#comments Mon, 28 Nov 2011 09:20:51 +0000 GeriMiller http://www.groedibles.com/?p=1906



Together, we can do anything

A small group of thoughtful people could change the world.
Indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.

Margaret Mead

There are so many ways you can help…with your time or donation. Just knowing that there are good people doing great things in your community can help inspire you. Here are just a few of HGEL’s favorite organizations:

Supporting Young Farmers

National Young Farmers Coalition: NYFC works for young farmers by strengthening their social networks, helping them hone their skills through the facilitation of peer-to-peer learning, and fighting for the policies that will keep them farming for a lifetime.

Beginning Farmers – “Beginningfarmers.org is an effort to develop a comprehensive and up to date compilation of information resources for new, experienced, and potential farmers, as well as educators, activists, and policy makers interested in the development of new farm enterprises.”

The Greenhorns: “The Greenhorns is a grassroots non-profit organization made up of young farmers and many collaborators. Our mission is to recruit, promote and support the new generation of young farmers in this ample and able 21st century America.”

End Hunger/Food Security

The Dinner Garden – “The Dinner Garden is working to end hunger in the United States through home and community gardening. We are striving to create one garden for every six Americans.”

Feeding America – “Feeding America is the nation’s leading domestic hunger-relief charity.  Our mission is to feed America’s hungry through a nationwide network of member food banks and engage our country in the fight to end hunger.” http://www.emagazine.com/view/?5467

Slow Food USA – “Slow Food is an idea, a way of living and a way of eating. It is a global, grassroots movement with thousands of members around the world that links the pleasure of food with a commitment to community and the environment.”

Roots of Change – “Roots of Change was created with the intent of growing a network of diverse stakeholders united by the vision of healthy, affordable, safe, just and ecologically responsible food and agriculture in California by the year 2030.”

Food Declaration – “…serve the good food movement by collaborating with others on a declaration that could be used to spark the public’s action on national policy.”

Food Gatherers -”Food Gatherers exists to alleviate hunger and eliminate its causes in our community by: reducing food waste through the rescue and distribution of food; coordinating with other hunger relief providers; educating the public about hunger; and developing new food resources.”

Create the Good- Fight Hunger – “Create The Good is where good people get connected to opportunities to make a positive impact.”

Community Food Security Coalition – “The Community Food Security Coalition (CFSC) is a North American coalition of diverse people and organizations working from the local to international levels to build community food security.”

Community Food Advocates – “Community Food Advocates is a new organization with a rich history and a big mission: to end hunger and create a healthy, just, and sustainable food system.”

California Food and Justice Coalition -”The California Food and Justice Coalition (CFJC) is a state-wide membership coalition that promotes the basic human right to healthy, affordable food while advancing social, agricultural, environmental and economic justice.”

Toronto YOUTH Food Policy Council – “As a group of food passionate youth, we will continue to create routes of agency for our peers within Toronto municipal food policy sector and become a hub for our City’s many young people who care about the future of their food supply.”

Growing Hope – “Growing Hope grew out of the efforts of the Perry Learning Garden (PLG), originally conceived in 1999 as a single school and neighborhood garden site. Growing Hope has been empowering local communities to grow and eat healthy food.”

Kitchen Gardeners International – “Kitchen Gardeners International is a 501c3 nonprofit community of over 20,000 people from 100 countries who are growing some of their own food and helping others to do the same, both near and far. Our mission is to empower individuals, families, and communities to achieve greater levels of food self-reliance.”

The Wholesome Wave Foundation – “The mission of Wholesome Wave is to nourish neighborhoods by supporting increased production and access to healthy, fresh, and affordable locally grown food for the well-being of all.”

Detroit Black Community Food Security Network – http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=103029193924&v=info – “Detroit Black Community Food Security Network has worked tirelessly to raise our awareness about food, where it comes from, who controls it, and the role it plays in building healthy families and communities. We have created models of community self-determination and grassroots citizen engagement that have attracted national attention.”

Detroit Food Justice Task Force – “The Detroit Food Justice Task Force is a consortium of People of Color led organizations and allies that share a commitment to creating a food security plan for Detroit that is: sustainable; that provides healthy, affordable foods for all of the city’s people; that is based on best-practices and programs that work; and that is just and equitable in the distribution of food, jobs and profits.”

Freedom/Freedom Growers – “The Feedom-Freedom Growers of Detroit began in 2008 in order to address community needs and grow community institutions that were otherwise being dismissed. It started as a single garden bed, and has grown to large parcels of land, as well as within the hearts and minds of the Manistique community.”

Sustainable Economic Enterprises of LA (SEE-LA) – “The mission of SEE-LA is to promote and engage in self-sustaining community and economic development activities within the City of Los Angeles, including sustainable food systems, social and cultural progams, and economic revitalization projects such as the Hollywood Farmers Market (among many others) and The Farmer’s Kitchen.”

Any Foodbank! For a national listing by zipcode, click HERE.

Community Food Security Coalition – “The Community Food Security Coalition (CFSC) is a North American coalition of diverse people and organizations working from the local to international levels to build community food security.”

Cooperative Food Empowerment Directive - “CoFed is a new Berkeley-based, national training program and research institute empowering students to create ethically-sourced, cooperatively-run sustainable food storefronts and cafés on college campuses.”

Real Food Challenge – “Uniting students for just and sustainable food.”

The Food Project -  “Since 1991, The Food Project has built a national model of engaging young people in personal and social change through sustainable agriculture.”

The California Student Sustainability Coalition – “The California Student Sustainability Coalition unites, connects, supports, and empowers students from across California to transform their educational institutions and communities into models of ecological, economic, and social sustainability.”

GoSo (Go Serve Others) - ”To transform the lives of our youth, growing an awareness of the value of community through life in the garden. GoSo has operated its agricultural program since 2005 in St. Charles , IL in partnership with UIC Champaign Horticultural Dept. The program has now expanded to Geneva, IL, West Englewood and North Lawndale communities.”

City Harvest – “City Harvest is and always has been the New York City community’s response to hunger. We link the food industry and countless organizations, foundations, corporations and private citizens together to help feed their hungry neighbors. Each week we help feed more than 300,000 hungry men, women and children.”

Supporting School Gardens

Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Program in Your County – These volunteers have been working to improve food security and education for decades.  MG’s have been an integral part of establishing and teaching in many school gardens all over the country. With deep budget cuts negatively effecting these programs in every state, your support is sorely needed!

“Seeds to Success” Youth Farmstands — Glassboro, Paulsboro & Woodbury (Rutgers University) – “Now in its 8th year, Seeds to Success combines year-round, in-school business training and lifeskills education with a paid summer work experience. From September through June, youth in Bankbridge Regional and Glassboro, Paulsboro and Woodbury High Schools receive training in a variety of work-related and health topics.”

Washington Youth Garden (National Arboretum) – “Using the garden cycle as a tool, the mission of the Washington Youth Garden at the U.S. National Arboretum (WYG) is to inspire children and families to engage in self-discovery, explore relationships with food and the natural world, and contribute to the health and well-being of their communities.”

Chez Panisse Foundation (Edible Schoolyard) – “We believe every child has a right to fresh, healthy food. And we believe public school is the best place to provide it. Like physical education programs—established forty years ago in response to a presidential commission concerned about the fitness of our nation’s youth—food education and access to fresh, healthy food must become part of the public school experience.”

Garden School Foundation (Los Angeles) – “A community partnership with Los Angeles Unified School District dedicated to bringing verdant traffic buffers, sports facilities, native gardens, science gardens, kitchen gardens, and teaching kitchens to public schools. Our founding members include chef Nancy Silverton, teacher Linda Slater, principal Grace Yoon, designer Karen Haas, United Neighborhood Council representative Marva Maxey, and La Brea Bakery. Our prototype is 24th Street Elementary School in central Los Angeles.”

California School Garden Network – “By encouraging and supporting a garden in every school, we create opportunities for our children to discover fresh food, make healthier food choices, and become better nourished.”

Supporting Organics, Locavore, Sustainable, Food Safety & Policy

Organic Consumers Association – “The Organic Consumers Association (OCA) is an online and grassroots non-profit 501(c)3 public interest organization campaigning for health, justice, and sustainability. The OCA deals with crucial issues of food safety, industrial agriculture, genetic engineering, children’s health, corporate accountability, Fair Trade, environmental sustainability and other key topics.”

Organic Seed Alliance – “Seed is the foundation of our organic food system. Organic Seed Alliance (OSA) works nationally with farmers like Nash, as well as researchers, independent seed companies, and organic advocates, to create healthy, community-based seed systems.”

Pesticide Action Network International – “Pesticide Action Network (PAN) is a network of over 600 participating nongovernmental organizations, institutions and individuals in over 90 countries working to replace the use of hazardous pesticides with ecologically sound and socially just alternatives.”

ATTRA – National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service: ” Your source for the latest in sustainable agriculture and organic farming news, publications and resource materials.”

Rodale Institute - “Rodale Institute is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit dedicated to pioneering organic farming through research and outreach. For over sixty-years, we’ve been researching the best practices of organic agriculture and sharing our findings with farmers and scientists throughout the world, advocating for policies that support farmers, and educating consumers about how going organic is the healthiest options for people and the planet.”

Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York – “NOFA NY, Inc is an organization of consumers, gardeners, and farmers working together to create a sustainable regional food system which is ecologically sound and economically viable.”

Cornucopia Institute – “Seeking economic justice for the family-scale farming community. Through research, advocacy, and economic development our goal is to empower farmers – partnered with consumers – in support of ecologically produced local, organic and authentic food.”

Center for Food Safety – “The Center for Food Safety (CFS) is a non-profit public interest and environmental advocacy membership organization established in 1997 by its sister organization, International Center for Technology Assessment, for the purpose of challenging harmful food production technologies and promoting sustainable alternatives.”

Chef’s Collaborative – “Chefs collaborative is a national chef network that’s changing the sustainable food landscape using the power of connections, education and responsible buying decisions.”

Greener Partners –  ”Greener Partners is contributing to the resurgence of farming activity within the Greater Philadelphia region. By reestablishing sustainable, organic farming operations, Greener Partners is impacting the way people think about their food and the environment.”

Animal/Environmental Welfare

The Gentle Barn – “Ellie and Jay Weiner see their 130 rescued farm animals as teachers, healers, friends and hero’s. Every animal at their place has been rescued from horrible abuse, neglect, and loneliness, and yet they have all survived using forgiveness, trust, love, and courage. We work with children from the inner city, group homes, mental health care facilities, foster homes, and schools to teach them that even though we are all different on the outside, on the inside we are all the same and are deserving of the same rights, respects and freedom.”

To find a farm animal shelter in your state, click HERE.

Nature Conservancy – “The Nature Conservancy is the leading conservation organization working around the world to protect ecologically important lands and waters for nature and people.”

National Wildlife Federation – “The National Wildlife Federation is America’s largest conservation organization. We work with more than 4 million members, partners and supporters in communities across the country to protect and restore wildlife habitat, confront global warming and connect with nature.”

Grist.org – “Grist has been dishing out environmental news and commentary with a wry twist since 1999 — which, to be frank, was way before most people cared about such things.”

Pollinator Partnership – The Pollinator Partnership’s mission is to promote the health of pollinators, critical to food and ecosystems, through conservation, education, and research. Signature initiatives include the NAPPC (North American Pollinator Protection Campaign), National Pollinator Week, and the Ecoregional Planting Guides.

The Xerces Society - The Xerces Society is a nonprofit organization that protects wildlife through the conservation of invertebrates and their habitat. Established in 1971, the Society is at the forefront of invertebrate protection worldwide, harnessing the knowledge of scientists and the enthusiasm of citizens to implement conservation programs.

What is so uplifting is how many of these groups are springing up all over the globe.  This small list includes organizations that HGEL has chosen to contribute to or has disseminated information from but doesn’t come close to listing all our worthy organizations. If you know of similar organizations that you’d like HGEL fans to know about, please list them in a comment here along with their website link.

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