Hope to see you there!

Click Chefs Garden Announcement to download and print flyer

June Class Schedule

10:30 – noon

Sat  • Jun 8      Intro to Organic Gardening

Sun • Jun 9      Get Your Summer Growing with your kids

Sat  • Jun 15    Fertilizing Responsibly

Sun • Jun 16    Intro to Organic Gardening

Sat  • Jun 22     Mastering Earth & Water

Sun • Jun 23    Who’s Eating Your Garden?

Sat  • Jun 29     Intro to Edible Landscaping

Sun • Jun 30    How to Succeed at Seed Starting  without even trying

See below for class details. All classes include a hands-on session in our garden AND a free Organiks® edible plant to take home from Armstrong Growers

• Introduction to Organic Gardening – A perfect class for the beginner or any level gardener who’d like a refresher on organic practice. Includes a tour of the garden.
• Fertilizing Responsibly: How & when to fertilize organically & protect the environment. You get a sample of organic fertilizer from EB Stone to take home.
• Mastering Earth & Water: Covers the elements of organic & sustainable soil management along with a discussion of drip irrigation with a demo working with the components of a drip system.  Take home a sample of organic soil amendment from EB Stone.
• Get Your Summer Growing with Your Kids: Planning your summer garden. How to grow your family’s summer favorites and get the kids involved. Kids pot up their own clay pot to take home. ($10 materials fee)
• Who’s Eating Your Garden? – Organic Pest Control: A fun introduction to organic pest control. Includes a “pest safari” through our garden.
• Intro to Edible Landscaping: An introduction into the art of transforming a landscape into a beautiful and productive foodscape. You’ll pot up your own mini edible landscape to take home. ($15 materials fee)
• How To Succeed at Seed Starting Without Even Trying: Learn how to be your own nursery! Sow your own peat pot to take home. Get a sample of seed starting mix from EB Stone

Join our email list to receive notices when registration opens for these and future classes and events: http://bit.ly/eKGAlq

The Chef’s Garden is located at 1033 Abbot Kinney in Venice (across from Westminster Elementary)

Internships are available. Please go to http://www.groedibles.com/services/the-hgel-apprentice-program/ for more info and send your qualifications to info@groedibles.com

We saw much this last week – evil, tragic loss of life and life-changing injury, courage and unity. I prefer to focus on and remember the shining light of the wondrous acts of bravery and kindness rather than the heinous acts of two. Today I read a beautiful post on Facebook that I’d like to share with you. Hopefully, it along with the videos will help us remember that terror will never stand anywhere in the world as long as we stand together.

And here are some ways we did just that…

Last week’s Rock Center

Visit NBCNews.com for breaking news, world news, and news about the economy

Visit NBCNews.com for breaking news, world news, and news about the economy

Heart with pepper, soul with garlic. ~ Russian proverb

What would our culinary creations be without the pretty pepper? An essential ingredient in my summer edible landscapes, these beauties can be sweet or hot, small or large, and very, very colorful – flowers, fruit and leaves!

Sweet bells growing among tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce and flowers at Four Daughters Kitchen in Manhattan Beach

Family: Solanaceae
Genus: Capsicum Species:annuum
(REMEMBER: Since this is a plant that belongs to the Solanaceae family, use crop rotation to avoid planting in the same garden area in consecutive seasons. Other Solanaceae family vegetables, fruits and flowers includes: potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, sweet peppers, chili… peppers (but not black pepper), tobacco and petunias.

CLIMATIC REQUIREMENTS

Being a tropical plant, peppers thrive best when temperatures are warm. Having said that, planting should not be done until the danger of frost is past in the spring. Ideal
temperatures are 70 to 80 degrees F during the day, and 60 to 70 degrees F at night.

Extremely high temperatures (90 degrees F or above) during
flowering often results in blossom drop. Fruit that set when temperatures average
above 80 degrees F may be small and poorly shaped due to heat injury to
the blossoms. Temperatures below 60 degrees F at night will also result in
blossom drop.

A shortage of water at bloom time can also result in
blossom drop or failure to set fruit. Usually, the plants set
satisfactory crops when temperatures are between 65 and 80 degrees F
and the soil is well-supplied with moisture. Avoid a soggy, water-logged soil
condition when growing peppers.

For centuries, growers have handed down methods to increase chilis pungency through slightly drought stressing plants after fruit set. Does this work? There has been some research done on this recently from New Mexico State University, College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences. Read more here: http://www.kasa.com/dpps/local_guide/local_guide_02/drought-stress-on-chile-draws-research_4649498. My experience has been that different varieties respond differently. I find fairly predictable responses from drought stress in Jalapenos and Serranos.

For such a small chile, it packs an incredibly fiery punch. Thai chiles range in color from red to green when fully mature. They are often used in Asian curries. Thai peppers should be used sparingly.

SOIL REQUIREMENTS

Pepper plants grow best in warm, well-drained soils of moderate fertility and good tilth. The plants are not particularly sensitive
to soil acidity, but best results are obtained in the 6.0 to 6.8 pH
range. Adjust soil fertility as indicated by soil test results.
Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your local
Cooperative Extension office. Organic fertilizers of a 1-2-2 ratio, such as
5-10-10 or 8-16-16 are often used for growing peppers.

A NOTE ABOUT BUYING NURSERY TRANSPLANTS

If you are buying transplants at a local garden center, select stocky, sturdy plants that have 3-5 sets
of true leaves. Although it’s tempting…avoid plants that already have flowers and fruit.

If you have no choice, be sure to remove the flowers before transplanting. This will signal the plant to shift its energy from it developing fruit to developing new roots. Water plants
thoroughly after transplanting. Avoid planting under conditions that will stunt the plants and lead to poor production, such as cold weather, lack of sufficient soil moisture, or lack of sufficient fertilizer.

Fish Peppers (Capsicum annum) were used to season fish and shellfish in the African-American communities around Baltimore and Philadelphia back in the 1930's and 1940's.

CULTURAL PRACTICES

If using traditional row planting scheme, space plants 18 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart. After the plants are well established, apply a mulch to conserve soil moisture, prevent soil compaction and help suppress weed growth. Once fruits have begun to set, an additional sidedressing of fertilizer will help promote greater plant productivity.
Control weeds – sorry guys – by hand-pulling. The disease can be reduced by proper spacing for air flow and by watering early in the day so leaves
dry well before evening. The best irrigation for veggie gardens is drip or by using soaker hoses.

PEST & DISEASE CONTROL

Check with your local Cooperative Extension for pest & disease control recommendations in your area (link to a National Database of IPM sites is below). Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.peppers.html. Aphids should be controlled as they may carry viral diseases that can affect peppers.

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop…gardeners are, above all else, patient. Unless you refuse to use any pesticides (we strive for this – organic or not), they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia) http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C853/C853.htm

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region: http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

HARVESTING AND STORAGE

Peppers are normally harvested in the immature green stage (but full size) for use in relishes, salads, for stuffing, and for flavor in many cooked dishes. However, if they are allowed to ripen on the plant they will be sweeter and higher in vitamin content. Other peppers are usually harvested at full maturity.
Be careful when breaking the peppers from the plants, as the branches are often
brittle. Hand clippers or pruners can be used to cut peppers from the plant to avoid breaking the stem. The number of peppers perplant varies with the variety. Bell pepper plants may produce 6 to 8 or more fruit per plant. In general, peppers have short storage life of only one to two weeks. Cool, moist conditions (45 to 50 degrees F) and 85 to 90 percent relative humidity are the ideal storage conditions for peppers.

Source: Ohio State Univ. Coop Ext, Cornell Univ Coop Ext

And, to do the pepper justice…a recipe video on the making of the Chili Pineapple Margarita from our friends at thedrinkchef.com

Ever feel like life keeps putting boulders in our way in the garden? Yep, sometimes it sure feels that way. But, it seems to me that many times in our adult lives we abandon our bliss too quickly when we run into obstacles; not allowing time to figure a way through or around the thing blocking our way. This post is in response to some of the issues many clients and HGELers have identified to me on Facebook as being that “boulder” or “boulders” blocking their path. Let’s try to make gravel out of that boulder!

• LACK OF KNOWLEDGE
• BAD SOIL
• HOW TO USE ORGANIC AMENDMENTS & FERTILIZERS
• WHEN/HOW TO BUILD/USE RAISED BEDS
• PEST MANAGEMENT
• $$$

A few words on “success” and “failure”

First, remove any preconceived notions you have of both words especially when you’re a beginner. You know sometimes we just can’t seem to get out of our own way! If you have expectations that your first season gardening or your first season in a new site is going to end in some kind of “coffee table book” garden of eden…you’ll be setting yourself up for disappointment. Not only is gardening “on-the-job” training, but gardening forces we instant-gratification-loving humans to SLOW DOWN and learn within Mother Nature’s timetable….not our own. We learn by reading and discussing with other gardeners, of course, but nothing is a substitute for getting out there and getting dirty in your own garden!

This learning curve may take a few seasons to level out a bit to the point where you feel more confident. As a gardener, though, you are a life-long learner. You’re never finished learning which is why I love it. After a lifetime of gardening, certification as a Master Gardener and years teaching in school gardens, I continue to learn; returning to school last year for my certification in horticulture at UCLA. So…wipe away those expectations of grand “success” and look forward to small but important moments of success on which you will build season after season; improving poor soil, successfully starting your own seeds, taking your first harvest, becoming healthier and on and on. Whether big or small, they are all successes.

As for “failures”. When we were children we really had no fear. As we grew and developed a fear of peer disapproval when we didn’t get things right, we began to be afraid of trying new things. How sad is that? I have to quote my dear ol’ Dad who said “If you don’t fail, you don’t learn.” So, set your fears aside, follow your bliss and take that first step…or shovelful! We’ll be learning together!

Now…down to work! Here is a listing of some of the comments HGELers recently posted about what issues you all face in your gardens. I am listing some links that I think are helpful. When more info on a certain issue is available on http://www.groedibles.com/, I’ll put a link to the website as well. Have fun!

LACK OF KNOWLEDGE

In addition to HGEL on facebook, you have access to even more info on the Resourses page on groedibles.com in which you’ll find the “fall/winter gardening” and “spring/summer gardening” sections. This page will also list Gardening Classes and Events that may interest you. Be patient as the “spring/summer gardening section” is under construction. ALSO, the HGEL fan page on Facebook has been up since May 2009 so there are tons of links and postings that can help you. Pour yourself some coffee/tea or your preferred beverage and scroll down through the past postings.  Wow, you might even find yourself spending as much time on HGEL as I do!!!

BAD SOIL

Now there really is no such thing as “bad soil” unless of course it’s contaminated. Otherwise, if you look around you’ll notice that something grows in your soil….maybe just not what you want to grow in your soil!

• For a little lesson on soil textures, composition and tilth, please visit the Soil Evaluation, Prep and Management section of the Spring/Summer Gardening page on groedibles.com and see both fall/winter and spring/summer gardening sections.
• As a garden designer that also extensively uses native plants, I know that there is a plant for just about every soil type. BUT, since we’re talking about edibles here, we’ll start off talking about which types of soil most vegetables thrive in. But first a few “dirty” words:
• 1. Soil texture: Texture refers to the size of the particles that make up the soil. The terms sand, silt, loam and clay refer to relative sizes of the individual soil particles. Sand is made up of the largest sized particles. Silt is medium sized and clay has the smallest sized particles. So soil texture dictates not only how well your soil drains, but also how well it retains nutrients and moisture.
  How Texture Affects Soil Properties
  2. Soil texture types: Sand: Sand, being the larger sized particles, feels gritty. There is a major difference in soil characteristics between fine sands and medium to coarse sands. Fine sands add little to the soil characteristic and do not significantly increase large pore space. An example of fine sand is the bagged sand sold for children’s sandboxes. For a soil to take on the characteristics of a sandy soil it needs greater than 50-60 percent medium to coarse size sand particles. Sandy soils have good drainage and aeration, but low water and nutrient holding capacity. Source: Colorado Master Gardeners Program Colorado Gardener Certificate Training Colorado State University Extension. Silt: Silt has a smooth or floury texture. Silt settles out in slow moving water and is common on the bottom of an irrigation ditch, riverbed or lake. Silt doesn’t add much to the characteristics of a soil. Water holding capacity is similar to clay.  Clay: Clay particles are very small. Clay feels sticky to the touch. Soils with as little as 20% clay size particles behave like a sticky clayey soil. Soils with high clay content have good water and nutrient retention ability, but the lack of large pore space restricts water and air movement. Clayey soils are also rather prone to compaction issues.  Loam: Technically, loam refers to a specific, well-balance soil texture. This term is often used loosely by gardeners to describe “ideal” soil. Loam, therefore has a mixture of different sized soil particles that allow it to resist compaction, allow air and water movement, retention of nutrients and…of course, has plenty of organic material. In other words…we as gardeners strive for a “loamy” soil.
  3. Soil Structure: Structure refers to how the soil particles hang together, how much of the soil particles form into clods or crumbs. No matter what your soil texture, loose crumbs and clods ensure ample pore space which allows air and water to pass through more easily. Keep in mind that good soil structure can compensate for less-than-perfect soil texture. Abundance of organic matter is the main indicator of good soil structure. Organic matter may be all you need powdery soil or large, hard clods.
  4. Soil Tilth: The term soil tilth refers to the soil’s general ability to support plant growth and root growth. Tilth is technically defined as “the physical condition of soil as related to its ease of tillage, fitness of seedbed, and impedance to seedling emergence and root penetration.” A soil with good tilth has large pore spaces that allows for sufficient air and water movement. (Roots only grow where the soil tilth allows for adequate levels of soil oxygen.) It also holds a reasonable supply of water and nutrients. Soil tilth is a function of soil texture, structure, fertility, and the interplay with organic content and the living soil organisms that help make-up the soil ecosystem. Source: Colorado Master Gardeners Program, Colorado Gardener Certificate Training, Colorado State University Extension
  5. Organic Matter: Organic matter consists of plant and animal material that is in the process of decomposing.
  6. Humus: Humus is organic matter in its final stage of decomposition. It is a fine, dark substance that is chemically very complex. Humus gives rich, fertile soil its dark color. It promotes healthy plant growth in many ways, from keeping existing soil nutrients available to enhancing soil structure for good root growth.

• Ok… now you know some of the soil lingo. Let’s get to the nitty gritty. If you evaluate your soil and decide that it’s in fairly good shape but needs some improving and you’re willing to put the time and energy into it in order to grow edibles, it CAN be done. Just remember that, for instance, to get a heavy clay soil to a loam state will mean that you’ll need to dedicate plenty of time and organic matter to soil improvement and then soil re-invigoration each and every year as your native soil will be constantly working to return to its native state…that’s just, well, natural!
  

  READY FOR THE BIG SECRET? Shhhhh….edibles prefer a nice loose (large pores – yeah for once, they’re a GOOD thing!), rich in nutrient-rich humus (no, not the stuff that comes w/ pita chips) that has a fairly neutral to a bit acidic pH of around 6.8 to 7.2 There are exceptions…see “understanding the impact of soil pH” below.

  Improving your Soil:

  Before you begin, there are two things you need to know:

  1. Knowing your soil texture. You must identify your soil texture and structure. Here’s a great resource on this from our friends ‘down under’, NSW Dept of Ag: http://www.namoi.cma.nsw.gov.au/sh_soiltexture.pdf.
  2. Soil testing: If you haven’t ever done one or it has been awhile, it’s always a good idea to test your soil so that you can correct any deficiencies in pH or fertility BEFORE you plant. There are inexpensive soil test kits to use at home available from nurseries, hardware or “Big Box” home improvement stores but if you have concerns about other contaminates or heavy metals, there are many local labs that can do more detailed screening. Please contact your county’s local Cooperative Extension Office for a list. http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/
  • Understanding the impact that soil pH has on your plants’ ability to access the nutrients in the soil is critical in maintaining a balanced growing environment and providing the best results: A BUMPER CROP! Here is a link to a helpful article about Soil pH Modification from the experts at the University of Minnesota. http://www.extension.org/pages/Soil_pH_Modification
• - Most turfgrasses tend to grow best between 5.5 and 6.5. Many evergreen trees and shrubs prefer a pH range of 5.0 to 6.0. Potatoes tolerate a wide range in soil pH, but potato scab can be a problem if the pH is above 5.3. Other exceptions include blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons (acid-loving plants) that require acid conditions between pH 4.5 and 5.2. Blue hydrangeas also require a pH lower than 5.0 to induce the blue flower color. Carl J. Rosen, Peter M. Bierman, and Roger D. Eliason. Department of Soil, Water, and Climate. University of Minnesota. -
• • Understanding Soil Fertility: Macro and Micro Nutrients:
    Macronutrients: Essential elements used by plants in relatively large amounts for plant growth are called macronutrients. The major macronutrients are: 

    Nitrogen (N)

    * Nitrogen is a part of all living cells and is a necessary part of all proteins, enzymes and metabolic processes involved in the synthesis and transfer of energy.
    * Nitrogen is a part of chlorophyll, the green pigment of the plant that is responsible for photosynthesis.
    * Helps plants with rapid growth, increasing seed and fruit production and improving the quality of leaf and forage crops.
    * Nitrogen often comes from fertilizer application and from the air (legumes get their N from the atmosphere, water or rainfall contributes very little nitrogen)

    Phosphorus (P)

    * Like nitrogen, phosphorus (P) is an essential part of the process of photosynthesis.
    * Involved in the formation of all oils, sugars, starches, etc.
    * Helps with the transformation of solar energy into chemical energy; proper plant maturation; withstanding stress.
    * Effects rapid growth.
    * Encourages blooming and root growth.
    * Phosphorus often comes from fertilizer, bone meal, and superphosphate.

    Potassium (K)

    * Potassium is absorbed by plants in larger amounts than any other mineral element except nitrogen and, in some cases, calcium.
    * Helps in the building of protein, photosynthesis, fruit quality and reduction of diseases.
    * Potassium is supplied to plants by soil minerals, organic materials, and fertilizer.

    Calcium (Ca)

    * Calcium, an essential part of plant cell wall structure, provides for normal transport and retention of other elements as well as strength in the plant. It is also thought to counteract the effect of alkali salts and organic acids within a plant.
    * Sources of calcium are dolomitic lime, gypsum, and superphosphate.

    Magnesium (Mg)

    * Magnesium is part of the chlorophyll in all green plants and essential for photosynthesis. It also helps activate many plant enzymes needed for growth.
    * Soil minerals, organic material, fertilizers, and dolomitic limestone are sources of magnesium for plants.

    Sulfur (S)

    * Essential plant food for production of protein.
    * Promotes activity and development of enzymes and vitamins.
    * Helps in chlorophyll formation.
    * Improves root growth and seed production.
    * Helps with vigorous plant growth and resistance to cold.
    * Sulfur may be supplied to the soil from rainwater. It is also added in some fertilizers as an impurity, especially the lower grade fertilizers. The use of gypsum also increases soil sulfur levels.

    Micronutrients: Micronutrients are those elements essential for plant growth which are needed in only very small (micro) quantities . These elements are sometimes called minor elements or trace elements, but use of the term micronutrient is encouraged by the American Society of Agronomy and the Soil Science Society of America. The micronutrients are:

    Boron (B)

    * Helps in the use of nutrients and regulates other nutrients.
    * Aids production of sugar and carbohydrates.
    * Essential for seed and fruit development.
    * Sources of boron are organic matter and borax

    Copper (Cu)

    * Important for reproductive growth.
    * Aids in root metabolism and helps in the utilization of proteins.

    Chloride (Cl)

    * Aids plant metabolism.
    * Chloride is found in the soil.

    Iron (Fe)

    * Essential for formation of chlorophyll.
    * Sources of iron are the soil, iron sulfate, iron chelate.

    Manganese (Mn)

    * Functions with enzyme systems involved in breakdown of carbohydrates, and nitrogen metabolism.
    * Soil is a source of manganese.

    Molybdenum (Mo)

    * Helps in the use of nitrogen
    * Soil is a source of molybdenum.

    Zinc (Zn)

    * Essential for the transformation of carbohydrates.
    * Regulates consumption of sugars.
    * Part of the enzyme systems which regulate plant growth.
    * Sources of zinc are soil, zinc oxide, zinc sulfate, zinc chelate.

  • http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html#intro
  • http://www.marinij.com/lifestyles/ci_13982117
  • http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/html/grow/grow/soil.html
  • http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/234.pdf
  • http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C853/C853.htm

Adding Amendments and Using Organic Fertilizers

• The simple secret to improving ANY soil type is adding plenty of organic matter (the best is from your very own compost pile of course but you can purchase it from a nursery or local source).
  

  Cornell University Cooperative Extension "Fertilizing Garden Soil"

  Most states’ recycling programs will have a directory to private producers of mulch and compost but BEWARE – make sure your source produces from green waste or ag and is organic. Here are some state links to searchable directories or listings of local producers:
  California: http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/organics/SupplierList/default.asp
  Southern CA: http://www.aguinagagreen.com/Mulch,_Compost,_Top_Soil,_and_more/Home.html
  Pennsylvania: http://www.proprecycles.org/Compost%20Directory.html
  Texas: http://www.texasdisposal.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=58&Itemid=136
  USA National Listing: http://www.compostingcouncil.org/network/storefronts.php?category=all&product_category&state
  Canada: http://www.compost.org/memberMap/memberMap.cfm

How much is effective? Well, it does depend on your soil, but typically I’d say you’d be wasting your $$ and time if you’re adding any less than two inches.

 

 



HGEL's M-Brace Raised beds finished at Post and Beam Restaurant, Baldwin Hills

WHEN/HOW TO BUILD/USE RAISED BEDS

Of course there are plenty of reasons to use raised beds for your edible gardens:
1. Native soil is just too much of a battle to improve to the point where it will support edibles.
2. Site is not level.
3. Ease of use (up higher than ground level).
4. Pest management.

Here are my design recommendations for raised beds:
1. Materials: There are many options when it comes to this. My preference is cedar or redwood. Do not use pressure treated wood. http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/treatedlumber.html I’ve also used ash blocks or broken concrete. Use recycled materials whenever possible.
2. Dimensions and depth: I don’t make the bed any wider than 4 ft just because that is what is comfortable for me to reach the middle and opposite side of the bed without . Depth: though many of these videos may recommend depths of just 6 inches, I prefer at least 18″ (24″ is even better) to accommodate the deeper rooting plants like tomatoes and watermelon.
3. Pest control: I attach hardware cloth or small square chicken wire (heavy gauge) to the bottom to keep out gophers and moles.

Here are some good links to information & videos on constructing your own beds (these were all posted on HGEL recently):

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPrMvItUIuQ&feature=player_embedded
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHkLjtM-CwE
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBKcoezxqkU&NR=1
• http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/building-a-raised-bed/index.html
• http://www.sunset.com/garden/perfect-raised-bed-00400000039550/
• http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/treatedlumber.html

Purchasing Raised Bed Systems

• http://www.naturalyards.com/
• http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/la/gardening/look-small-space-tiered-planter-080906
• http://www.minifarmbox.com/mfb/homebox.html
• http://www.artofthegarden.net

 

PEST MANAGEMENT


My gospel: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/menu.homegarden.html
I choose to use biological or cultural controls first, then move to organic chemical treatments only if absolutely necessary.
Also see the HGEL photo album on pests and diseases and the fall/winter gardening section of groedibles.com for some pest info.
http://groups.ucanr.org/sonomamg/Feature_Articles/Stay_Away_Deer.htm
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
http://www.calicotardis.com/gophers.pdf (please see page 7 on barrier controls)

 

ONE MORE THING…$$$$

Economic Barriers to Gardening. Well, in addition to the free advice at HGEL, you also have your local county extension offices – the home of those great Master Gardeners: http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/ AND a great source for free seeds and advice for those of you that find yourself in need at http://www.dinnergarden.org/. They are a non-profit (also a fan of HGEL) whose mission is to end hunger in the US by giving folks who need them, free seeds and gardening support. Please visit their website, and if you can, donate to this worthy cause!

Happier Gardening!

“I do not like broccoli. And I haven’t liked it since I was a little kid and my mother made me eat it. And I’m President of the United States and I’m not going to eat any more broccoli.”
George H. W. Bush

Spotlight Edible of the Day: Broccoli

Besides that presidential dig some years back, broccoli is doing just fine, thank you very much! Consumption of broccoli has shot up in the last couple of decades. A third of American households are eating it at least once every two weeks, up 33 percent since that infamous quote! And since a Georgetown University study in 2011 found that isothiocyanates (ITCs) found in broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables caused cancer cells to die, well, let’s just say broccoli is no longer the awkward kid no one talks to at the party!

Family – Brassica oleracea var. italica. Cole crops are a group of veggies that belong to the mustard family – Brassicaceae (previously known as Cruciferae). The varieties included in this family are Broccoli (italica), Cauliflower (botrytis), Cabbage (capitat, tuba and sabauda), Brussel Sprouts (gemmifera), Kale and Collards (acephala) and Kohlrabi (gongyloides). Depending on the variety, these cool season crops may be herbaceous annuals, biennials or perennials.

Brassica oleracea var. italica, one of the oldest of the cole crops, originated in Europe and Asia and claim wild cabbage as their ancester. Broccoli comes in two types: sprouting (small shoots) and heading (one large head).

CLIMATE, SOIL AND CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS

Climatic Requirements – Cole crops are cool weather vegetables, growing best when daytime temperatures are between 65 and 80 F and planted in a

http://www.Naturalhealthyconcepts.com (click on image to enlarge)

sunny spot. Temperatures dipping below 40 F will cause harm and possibly early bolting. In many locations, broccoli is grown as a spring and fall crop.

Soil Requirements - HGEL recommends doing a soil test before planting in a new bed and at least once every three years after that. Tests are the only way to really know what steps you need to take to make your soil great. Without one, it’s a stab in the dark and you may waste money adding amendments and fertilizers you may not need.

Although broccoli will grow in a wide variety of soils, a sandy loam is best. All of the cole crops grow well in reasonably fertile, well-drained, moist soils with plenty of added organic matter.  The pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A pH in this range will cut down on diseases that plague this crop like clubroot disease and keep nutrients available to plants. A mulch will help with soil temperature and moisture retention.

Cultural Requirements

Planting: Although many of you may have different perspectives on this, it has been my experience that both broccoli and cauliflower do best when set out as transplants rather than planted from seed. A good transplant is 5 to 6 weeks old, sturdy with good color. Older plants or those that have already formed small heads won’t yield as well as younger plants so be selective at the nursery.

Your careful soil prep and correct planting time (not too early) will ensure vigorous growth once plants are planted to prevent the flowering heads of broccoli from “buttoning”. “Buttons” are small, unusable heads on small plants stunted by insufficient or inconsistent watering practices, weeds, or insects. A few days of low temperature (35oF to 50o F) can also cause buttons to develop. Choose your planting time carefully!

If you’re planting from seed, sow seeds 1/4 inch deep space rows 24 to 36 inches apart, setting transplants or thinning seedlings 18 inches apart. In the case of cole crops, proper spacing is important for maximum crop yield.

Fertilizing: Having done a soil test before planting and adding lots of good compost, your soil should be adequately fertile come planting time. One thing to keep in mind is that Broccoli (and cole crops in general) are heavy nitrogen feeders. Nitrogen is the most mobile of the macro nutrients and is taken up quickly by heavy N feeding plants like broccoli. Synthetic N can leach out of soil very fast through irrigation and run off. HGEL ALWAYS recommends avoiding synthetic fertilizers, using only organic materials that will provide the nutrients you need to replace/replenish.

Here’s a great guide from the University of Georgia: “How to Convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic One” – http://www.caes.uga.edu/Publications/displayHTML.cfm?pk_id=7170 .  Scroll down to Table 1. Guide to the Mineral Nutrient Value of Organic Fertilizers which shows you what nutrients the listed fertilizer will replace and how fast.

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity hence making your soil more fertile naturally. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants N needs can be met via cover cropping.

Crop Rotation: Crop rotation is an important cultural practice for cole crops to avoid disease problems. Rotate crops by alternating the location of plantings with a different crop each year. Try to avoid planting plants from the same family in the same place for at least two seasons…three is better. Here is a great resource from Iowa State on crop rotation: http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1998/3-27-1998/rotateg.html

Irrigation: Cole crops do require regular watering which is especially important if your soil texture tends toward the sandy side. Remember though that over-watering can lead to many problems like disease and even attract pests. HGEL always prefers a drip or micro-spray system as this cuts down water splashing and excessive leaf wetting which helps to avoid water transmitted fungal diseases like powdery mildew and blight. It also conserves water.

Photo via http://gourmandeinthekitchen.com/2012/creamy-broccoli-spinach-soup-recipe/

Weed Control and Mulching: Use shallow cultivation for weed control. Deep cultivation close to the plants will damage the root systems and reduce yield and quality. During the growing season, control weeds by mulching and hand-pulling. These strategies are the best means of control in a small planting. During the winter and spring months, periodically check the planting for the development of winter weeds that should be removed. Many organic growers apply natural mulches such as straw, leaves or compost around the plants, after they become established, to control weeds. This practice is well-worth the labor as it conserves soil moisture, attracts earthworms and eventually enriches the growing area with organic matter and nutrients.

Organic Pest/Disease Control -

Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site about some common pests and diseases of cole crops: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.cole-crops.html

Pest Management Pests/Insects: Pest problems will vary depending on where you’re gardening.

Flea beetles and root maggots can cause serious damage to cole crops, chewing away the roots of young seedlings so they wilt and die. Covering beds or rows with floating row covers of spun-bonded polyester for the first month of more of growth will prevent attacks by both these pests.

The larval stages of several different species of moths can also cause serious damage. Row covers left on throughout the growing season, or regular applications of Bt (Bacillus thuriengiensis), an organic bacterial poison that kills only caterpillars, will control cabbage worms of all species. http://www.planetnatural.com/site/safer-dust.html.

Disease Management: To control fungal and soilborne bacterial diseases, rotate your planting site (see above) and irrigate correctly.

Some common diseases…

Downy mildew caused by Peronospora parasitica is the major fungal disease in broccoli. University research has shown that foliage can suffer a substantial amount of mildew lesions without affecting yield or quality. Mildew-tolerant varieties are available.

Black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) occurs occasionally in Imperial County. It is usually introduced to a farm through infected seed or transplants. Field conditions are not usually conducive for development of this disease in the desert. Use disease-free planting material.

Cladosporium sp. are often surface contaminants on broccoli heads especially during rainy periods or when there is heavy morning dew.

Clubroot is a soil-borne disease causing stunted plants which wilt even in moist soil. Raise the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 if this disease is a problem. AGAIN – practice rotation!

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

• Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?
• Is there a nutrient imbalance?
• Is the soil too wet or too dry?
• Has a good crop rotation been followed?
• Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.) http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western. Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region: http://www.ipmcenters.org/

http://ucanr.org/freepubs/docs/7251.pdf

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

Harvest/Storage Harvest:

Broccoli heads are removed by hand by snapping the stem. Broccoli requires rapid cooling to insure preservation of quality. Harvested heads should be taken to the cooler immediately.

“If bunched broccoli is stored at 32°F with a relative humidity of 90-95 percent, it should have a 10-14 day shelf life. At higher temperatures the shelf life will decrease drastically. Storage at 50°F, for example, will reduce the shelf life to 5 days. Excessive storage time will cause yellowing and softening of the tissue and beads. Off-flavor and bad odor may also develop.Broccoli should never be stored with ethylene sources such as ripening melons, avocados, bananas, apples, or pears. Exposure to ethylene will accelerate the yellowing of beads.” Keith S. Mayberry, Farm Advisor, U.C. Cooperative Extension, Imperial County.

Photo via gourmandeinthekitchen.com

Recipe: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/parmesan-roasted-broccoli-recipe/index.html

http://gourmandeinthekitchen.com/2012/creamy-broccoli-spinach-soup-recipe/

In honor of World Water Day!

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Water Facts…

 

Supply Facts

 

97.5% of the earth’s water is saltwater.

 

The water we drink has been circling around in the water cycle for millions of years – that means the same water exists now as when the dinosaurs were on the earth!

The amount of fresh water supply provided by the hydrological cycle does not increase. Water everywhere on the planet is an integral part of the hydrologic cycle.

 

Usage Facts

The average European uses 53 gallons of water every day. North Americans use 106 gallons.

It takes 634 gallons to produce a hamburger and 2,906 gallons to make a pair of jeans, including the water needed to grow the cotton.

Agriculture accounts for over 70% of the world’s water consumption. (UN Environment Programme (UNEP))

It takes at least 528 gallons to produce enough food for one person for one day.

Global water use is divided as follows: 70% Agriculture, 22% Industry, 8% Domestic.

 

Future Facts

On current trends over the next 20 years humans will use 40% more water than they do now.

Reaching the water target will require the provision of services to an additional 300,000 people a day over the next decade, requiring current efforts to be stepped up by almost one third.

Source: Protected Water Fund, World Health Organization

I’m sitting here anticipating the next rainfall no matter how slight. Previously a rare event in Los Angeles, this year, thankfully, it’s looking like the rain and I will become fast friends again. When I watch the rain drip down the window pane onto the pavement and down to the street makes me think about the whole water cycle process – what I’ve taught kinder and first graders about in school gardens over and over. Do you remember the song? Eva-por-ation, con-den-sa-tion, pre-cipi-ta-tion, a-ccumu-la-tion (or collection), cha-cha-cha!

That’s right…’round and ’round she goes…water on earth is a finite resource. After it’s gone, that’s it! We get no more!

So…why am I worrying about this now? The drought was deemed over last year here in California. Our fall has become (and looks like it will continue to be) a wetter one than expected. The water still flows freely when I turn the faucet on…so why worry? Yep, I am worried and you should be too. Many other parts of the U.S. have experienced water shortages or prolonged drought recently as well. States from Florida to Arizona suffered through droughts this year – the worst in 40 years. Globally, we haven’t fared much better – drought and floods have damaged crops and effected water supplies everywhere.

The US Department of Labor expects that civil engineer jobs (infrastructure designing/building including water systems) will increase much faster than the average for all occupations through 2018. Many colleges predict that hydrologists and hydrogeologists will be among the most in-demand jobs in the next 10 years. This reflects our local, state and federal governments’ anticipation that the increasing water demand will require the provision of services to an additional 300,000 people a day over the next decade, requiring current efforts to be stepped up by almost one third.

What can we do? Well…having just gone through a 6 year drought, we Californians know exactly what to do – continue to conserve water wherever we can. Over the last few years, many of us have installed the low-flow toilets, special shower heads, removed our lawns, planted natives, adjusted our irrigation timers, used mulches and drip irrigation in our gardens – whatever we had to do. But can we do more?

Many of us reap great harvests from our garden. What about harvesting rain? Yes, harvest our rain! Collecting rainwater is not a new concept! It is an ancient traditional practice. Historical records show that rainwater was collected in simple clay containers as far back as 2,000 years ago. Maybe it’s time to put some of these ancient techniques of rainwater harvesting back into practice!

A Cautionary Note About the Safety of Rooftop Runoff: Not to burst your water conservationist bubble, but there are a few important things to consider before you can decide how to use your collected rainwater safely – especially if you’re thinking of irrigating edibles. You’ll have to evaluate if your roof is a safe source to collect runoff and use straight from a rain barrel for NON POTABLE USES (I am not talking about these roof systems being used to provide drinking water as I don’t think it’s safe). Roofs made from the following are NOT candidates for rainwater collection:

old tar and gravel,

asbestos shingles

treated cedar shakes

copper roofs or copper gutters

zinc (galvanized metal) anti-moss strips-usually mounted at the roof peak

roofs treated with moss, lichen or algae-killing chemicals within the last several years

Note: Today there are asphalt shingles on the market which have zinc particles imbedded in the surface. Check your shingle specifications if you have recently re-roofed.

Enameled steel and glazed tile roofs generate little or no contamination and rainwater harvested from them is commonly considered safe.

Of course, the location of your home should also be considered. If you live in an industrialized area or near an airport, your roof may collect heavy metal residue from the air. Talk to your local city water agency about the issue of environmental contaminants in your area that may affect rainwater quality. Adding a filtration system to your rain barrel can help reduce these contaminants to below EPA standards. Here’s a link for more info about filter systems: Slow Sand Filters FAQs

More on water quality:
Water Quality of Rooftop Runoff – North Carolina State University, Cooperative Extension

During my research there seems to be differing opinons about whether or not the rooftop runoff is safe to use in food gardens. Do your own research, talk to your local water district or county, have your runoff tested (contact your county’s public health department) and then decide if you feel comfortable using your rooftop collected rainwater in your garden. Check with your city or county as they may have prohibitions on the use of rooftop collected rainwater to irrigate food gardens.

Most websites say there hasn’t been research done to measure risk effectively and since much has to do with conditions at the individual location, I doubt there will be. It is because of this that I don’t recommend rooftop runoff collection for use in food gardens in schools especially because the location, maintenance and age of these facilities are often huge factors.

Here are some ideas and resources to capture, store and use your rain water from simple to complex:

Rain Barrels

Using rain barrels is probably the easiest place to start and can be a great first step towards finding a solution to our growing water shortage. Just look outside your window the next time it rains and imagine all the water that’s running down your driveway being put to beneficial use in your home and garden!

Installation

Here are some links to help you build and install your rain barrel:

http://www.swfwmd.state.fl.us/publications/files/rain_barrels_guide.pdf
(This article has info on how to paint your rain barrel)
http://lawrenceks.org/wrr/system/files/Rain+Barrel+Instructions_0.pdf
http://livingstonnj.org/Rainbarrels-FactSheet-coopext.pdf
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20045365,00.html
http://larainwaterharvesting.org/
http://larainwaterharvesting.org/images/Homeowner_How-To_Guide.pdf

Rain Gardens

If you’ve got a low lying spot in your yard that is constantly wet after a rain, installing a rain garden may be a perfect (and beautiful) solution! “A rain garden is a garden of native shrubs, perennials, and flowers planted in a small depression, which is generally formed on a natural slope. It is designed to temporarily hold and soak in rain water runoff that flows from roofs, driveways, patios or lawns. Rain gardens are effective in removing up to 90% of nutrients and chemicals and up to 80% of sediments from the rainwater runoff. Compared to a conventional lawn, rain gardens allow for 30% more water to soak into the ground. It is not a pond or wetland, but is dry most of the time and typically holds water during and following a rainfall event.” City of Lincoln – Watershed Education

Installation

More helpful videos and links….
4 Steps to installing your rain garden from University of Maryland…

http://www.uri.edu/ce/healthylandscapes/raingarden.htm
http://www.lowimpactdevelopment.org/raingarden_design/whatisaraingarden.htm
http://dnr.wi.gov/org/water/wm/dsfm/shore/documents/rgmanual.pdf

Cistern Systems

A rainwater cistern is a setup for collecting rainwater and storing it until it’s needed. Works in a similar way to a rain barrel, just bigger and can be above or below ground. Cisterns are a good option when you need to collect and store greater quantities of water.

Here are helpful links and videos…

http://www.treepeople.org/install-cistern-or-rain-barrel
http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/sites/washington_marietta/docs/plans_for_developing.pdf

Shawna Coranado – The Casual Gardener – Rain Exchange System Install

Grey Water Systems

Grey water (also spelled greywater, graywater, or gray water) is any non-industrial wastewater generated from household sources such as sinks, washing machines, showers and bathtubs. Grey water systems allow you to recycle the water that goes down your bathtubs, showers and laundry for use in your garden. Again, as in the use of rain barrels or cisterns, you need to consider these safety issues:

Local rules may be more restrictive than state rules. Check with your local health jurisdiction before planning a grey water reuse system.
You should consult with a certified grey water installer or plumber and your local authorities before you install this system. Grey water tends to be alkaline and high in sodium. Acid loving plants or plants that don’t tolerate salinity will not tolerate being irrigated with grey water. You should intermittently irrigate with regular water to flush out the sodium so that it will not build up in the soil.
Here are some helpful links…
http://www.clallam.net/waterconservation/Water_Conservation___Using_Greywater_Factsheet.pdf

http://www.greywaterrecycling.net/recycling-systems/legal-issues/

Ahhhh, I feel so much better! As it did when you all decided to embrace organic, sustainable gardening practices in your individual gardens, adopting these steps in conserving water will make a WORLD of difference for our children’s future!

May your blessings outnumber the shamrocks that grow, And may trouble avoid you wherever you go.
~Irish Blessing

The Cute Clover

Wishing you a Happy St. Paddy’s Day! Here’s hoping you come across many four leaf clovers! In case you were wondering about our venerable clover, here are a few fun factoids:

 

What do the leaves mean?

One leaf is for FAITH… The second for HOPE…

The third for LOVE… And the fourth for LUCK!

 

What about the three-leaf clover (Shamrock)?

In Irish Catholic tradition the Shamrock represents the Holy Trinity: one leaf for the Father, one for the Son and one for the Holy Spirit. When a Shamrock is found with the fourth leaf, it represents God’s Grace.

 

White clover (Trifolium repens forma minus, family Leguminosae)

White clover is Ireland’s original Shamrock and was held in high esteem by the early Celts of Wales as a charm against evil spirits. Clover Science and Technology. N.L. Taylor, 1985.

 

Druids

The Druids held the four leaf clover in high esteem and considered them a sign of luck.

Source: Clovers Online

Why is the clover “lucky” for gardeners?

 

White Clover is a very good nitrogen fixing cover crop!

It is being used in poorer countries as a sustainable way to rehabilitate top soil-depleted farm and pasturelands.

“Beside supplying N, white clover also mobilized other nutrients which led to increase their concentration in soil. White clover would enhance the nutrient status of soil if introduced in the
agriculture ecosystem” M. KALEEM ABBASI, et al. Department of Soil and Environmental Sciences, Faculty of Agriculture, University of Azad Jammu and Kashmir, Pakistan. Pak. J. Bot., 41(1): 41-51, 2009.

 

It’s a great grazing crop for livestock.

 

 

It attracts bees!

It also helps bees make delicious honey!

 

It’s a tasty and nutritious wild edible!

The leaves and blossoms of clover are high in calcium, chromium, magnesium, niacin, phosphorus, potassium, thiamine, and vitamin C. Read more about the medicinal qualities of red clover from the University of Maryland Medical Center. Considered a dark green vegetable, clover has the same healthy nutritional qualities that spinach does.

Clover Recipes

CLOVER SOUP

2 cups clover flowers and leaves
1 onion, chopped
3 Tbsp. butter
2 pints water
3 potatoes, peeled and quartered
Salt and pepper to taste

Clean and dip clover flowers and leaves in cold salted water. Remove and cut into pieces. In a large saucepan, sauté flowers, leaves and onions in butter. When all is softened add water, then potatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Cook gently for 20 minutes. Drain the cooking liquid and save it. Puree potato mixture and dilute with the cooking liquid, stirring constantly. Bring to a boil, the reduce heat and simmer for 3 minutes. Can sprinkle with grated cheddar cheese if desired.

CLOVER and DILLWEED SOUP

2 cups clover blossoms and leaves, fresh or dried
2 small wild onions, chopped
4 Tbsp. sunflower seed butter
1 quart water
12 groundnuts, or 3 medium potatoes, quartered
Chopped fresh dillweed to taste
Spicebush berries, dried (aka Appalachian Allspice), grated over soup to taste. Sauté the clover blossoms and leaves along with chopped onions in the sunflower seed butter. Add the water, ground nuts, and seasonings. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Serve hot.

Source: Manataka® American Indian Council

http://www.cultural-china.com/

CLOVER CHIMICHURRI

Click here for a cooking conversion calculator.
100g clover
blanched and chopped fine
20g parsley
blanched and chopped fine
20g cilantro, blanched and chopped fine
10g fresh chile
chopped fine
5g red chili flake
10g dried oregano
30g capers chopped fine
juice of one lime
15ml red wine vinegar
5 cloves garlic, chopped fine
40ml good olive oil
salt and pepper .

Preparations: Combine all ingredients and let sit for 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Should always be made the same day you plan to eat it, recipe can be scaled up or down with no difficulty.
kaleidoscope.cultural-china.com

So whatever you do on the 17th of March (besides wearing green), as you’re strolling take a glance or two toward your feet…who knows today might be your lucky day!

HAPPY ST. PATRICK’S DAY!

“Spring is nature’s way of saying, “Let’s party!”
- Robin Williams

Spring equinox is March 20th around my part of the world and it’s coming up fast and furious. Now, I have to admit that doing my spring garden prep work was never a source of serious intestinal “knottage” in my earlier years. In fact it was a seasonal milestone that I really looked forward to…a sort of “back to school” feeling that everything was nothing but possibilities. It’s that “starting with a clean slate” enthusiasm that inspires all of us gardeners at the start of a new growing season. But times…oh how they have changed! As a professional edible landscaper, it’s not just ‘garden-play’ anymore. Now my professional rep depends on just how well I prep my own garden for the height of our growing year (Manhattan Beach is a small town and my neighbors know what I do for a living!) and, yes, my business depends on how well I organize…well… my gardening “stuff”. It’s no good when your garden managers can’t find the bone meal or the dead-heading scissors or struggle to find those drip emitters when they’re in a rush to get busy in your clients’ gardens! Yep… now the month of March always comes in like a lion for me and it keeps on roaring all the way through October!
How do I get my garden, my garden shed and myself ready for spring? Here are a few of my tips and a few I’ve “harvested” from the web.

Me, myself and I

• Getting yourself ready for bikini season and gardening season all at once

First and foremost, you can’t be a good gardener (let alone a professional one) if hurting, aching, huffing and puffing or running off to get your son or burly assistant to do the inevitable heavy lifting is part of your gardening reality. Folks, this stuff is hard work! It’s great exercise but you need to prepare your body just like any other form of exercise or sport you do.

A morning walk to the HGEL Reaney Design Co Garden in MB

In January I started walking. Not far, just a mile or so the first few weeks until I gradually worked up to 4 miles at least 3-4 times per week. Walk somewhere that is a calm and peaceful setting for you. This should be as much a mental stress reducer as it is a physical one. Go to a local park, community garden, beach, any place that you’d like to be even if you weren’t there to exercise. You’ll find that you’ll look forward to

Morning walk to Manhattan Beach Pier

your walk each day because it’s a special destination for both your mind and body. If you’re a fan on facebook, you’ll remember my occasional posts about my morning walks.
Even if you didn’t start your exercise routine in January, it’s really never too late. Start today!

• The value of a good garden warm-up routine

Like in any sport, the best coaches/trainers will tell you – WARM UP BEFORE YOU PLAY! Gardening is no different. Your body needs a good 10 minutes of a slow stretch and muscle warm up routine to help it avoid muscle strain and injury. Here is an easy-to-follow guide to some simple stretches you can do right there in the garden!

Click HERE to view picture on website

You know where you’re feeling muscle tightening so start by doing slow stretches targeting those muscles. For me, my problem zone are the muscles in my ‘back 40′ gluteus

Glute stretch seated

maximus region (no chuckling people!), which get shortened by over-use or long stints at the computer (yep, I’m not always in the garden!). Here is my favorite stretch:

1. Sit on a garden bench or chair and cross one leg over the other, with the ankle on top of the other knee.
2. Sit up straight, squeezing your shoulder blades together.
3. Lean slightly forward into the stretch. Ahhhhh! I can hear you all sighing from here!

• You are what you eat

Growing your own food already makes you more aware of the nutritional value of the food your garden gives you. Good start! If you think your diet could use some improvement (and whose doesn’t), start reading! There are lots of great books and articles out there to help. Of course consult your medical professional as well. Whatever you decide to do to improve the eating habits and health of yourself and your family, the most important goal to strive for is

“Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”

Michael Pollan, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto.

That means No Processed Food…Portion Correctly…and Fill Your Plate with Mostly Veggies! The table on the left and the plate graphic below will help you visualize how this should look. C’mon, with a little adjustment, this won’t be hard!
Of course, some of us will choose to eat nothing but plants and, with some knowledge about including enough protein, this can be a life-changing choice, but it’s not for everyone. For my family, a good fit is to try to follow a Mediterranean diet as much as possible – more emphasis on things that grow and less on things that go! ☺

Here are some good articles and books on the Mediterranean diet:

Mayo Clinic

New England Journal of Medicine

The Mediterranean Diet: Ten Books to Get You Reading
(a listing of the most popular reviewed books on Amazon)

The average serving size of meat on U.S. plates is 6-8oz. If you choose to start cutting back your family’s consumption of animal protein, don’t do it drastically overnight. Try cutting down the serving by 1oz over a period of a few weeks until you get to the recommended portion size of about 3oz. (about the size of a deck of playing cards). Who’s going to notice missing 1oz off their plate a week? Here are a view more visual cues to get you prepared to portion correctly. 

The look of normal portion sizes

• 1 oz. meat = size of a matchbox
• 3 oz. meat = size of a deck of cards or bar of soap (the recommended portion for a meal)
• 8 oz. meat = size of a thin paperback book

1 medium potato = size of a computer mouse

Getting Your Garden (and Garden Shed) in Shape

• Organizing your seeds

• Organizing your garden shed

• 20 Vegetable Garden Good Things from Martha

• Getting your soil ready

As many of my blog readers and facebook fans know, I’m a dirt nerd. EVERYTHING depends on this one thing. So let’s start from the ground up, shall we?

GroEdibles Blog: What’s in a teaspoon of soil: The Care and Feeding of the Soil Food Web

GroEdibles Resource Page: Soil Evaluation, Prep and Management

GroEdibles Class Handout: Master Earth & Water in Your Edible Garden

• A Review: The value of using your tools correctly to avoid injury


How to use a shovel correctly


How to select and use tools correctly


How to sharpen your tools safely



So I hope this helps you get on your path to being garden (and bikini) fit and ready! And, for our friends in colder climates, hey – consider yourself lucky – you’ve got a couple more months to prepare!

Happy Spring Everyone!

Vaniglia Sanguigno citrus - Vanilla Blood Orange

Vaniglia Sanguigno

Translated it’s “Vanilla Blood” and it does have a slight vanilla taste that makes this Blood worth a look (and taste). This is an acidless blood orange and is entirely different from any citrus I’ve tasted!  I had my first bite last month at International Garden Center in El Segundo, California. Nursery manager, Deno Soria explained that over the last couple of years the Vanilla Blood was just beginning to be introduced more widely to the commercial market here. Lucky us!

Having slightly smaller fruit than the other Bloods, larger seeds, a thinner rind and a lighter reddish pink interior, many thought this variety would be slow to ‘catch on’ with we home growers….until we tasted it!  They are strongly addicting. This is unfortunate because you can’t get them in the markets, so you’re just going to have to grow yourself, but we’re up for that, right?  Strictly speaking, it isn’t a true blood orange. It’s coloring agent is lycopene, instead of anthocyanins found in most oranges. Lycopene is what gives grapefruits and Cara Cara Orange, the pink navel variety their color.

That day in the nursery, Deno only gave me one off the little tree, but I can honestly tell you that I was tempted to sneak back for more! The wonderful thing about the Vaniglia Sanguigno is that the fruit can ripen as early as fall in climates with mild winters and warm summers.  They can also hold nicely on the tree well into spring and on the counter forever.

http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/vainiglia.html

Palestine Sweet Lime

Palestine Sweet Lime

Deno introduced me to this wonder that same day. “Sweet Lime”  has a sweet (edible) as opposed to a sour rind. It is of Middle Eastern derivation, hence the name. This variety’s fruit will turn deep gold, almost light orange when fully ripe. The grower reports that, like the Vanilla Blood, it also can hold on the counter for a couple of months after picking. In fact, it will become even sweeter and more flavorful. This variety can bear very heavily so be ready with your recipes! In the garden, it tends towards a spreading habit so plan accordingly.

Sweet limes aren’t true limes at all, but occupies a strange no-man’s land of a hybrid grouping that is from the coupling of a sour orange with a citron. It does tolerate a light freeze. A delicious and pucker-free bite told me that I’d found two more stars for my cocktail garden list!  http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/palestine.html

Enjoy!

If you need a general primer on the care and feeding of citrus (or anything in your backyard orchard), check out

University of CA’s THE BACKYARD ORCHARD

West Virginia University’s HOME ORCHARD MANAGEMENT

University of Arizona’s HOME ORCHARD CARE FOR MASTER GARDENERS

New Mexico State University’s PRUNING THE HOME ORCHARD

 

 

“The hours I spend with you I look upon as sort of a perfumed garden, a dim twilight, and a fountain singing to it. You and you alone make me feel that I am alive. Other men it is said have seen angels, but I have seen thee and thou art enough.”

George Moore

What makes a perfect Valentine’s Day? Many think it means material things given…a fine dinner, expensive jewelry, exotic perfume, a big box of chocolates. Really? I think all you and your love need do is spend some time in a garden. Well, ok…you can throw in the chocolates too.

History, chemistry and good ol’ fashioned folklore tells us that love lies within a garden. Cupid didn’t carry a bow and arrow, it was a trowel! For centuries flowers, herbs and, yes, even edibles have been inspiring love in every culture all over the globe. Here is a list of some of our garden favorites and their “love” attributes. And, yes, none of the following is research-based, all folklore! So take your love by the hand and stroll through the garden …

Love Lore

• APPLE BLOSSOM – you’re trying to attract love? Drop some apple blossoms in your bath.
• ASPARAGUS FERN – Fascination
• ASTER – Symbol of Love, Daintiness, Talisman of Love
• ASTER (CHINA) – Fidelity, Variety, I Will Think of Thee
• AZALEA – Take Care, Temperance, Fragile, Passion, Chinese Symbols of Womanhood

• BABY’S BREATH – Innocence, Pure of Heart
• BALSAM – Ardent Love
• BASIL -“A man taking basil from a woman will love her always.” Sir Thomas Moore. Basil is also believed to attract money, keep a lover faithful, and soothe headaches and heartaches. At one time young girls would place some on their windowsill to indicate they were looking for a suitor. In Tudor times, small pots of this were given by farmers’ wives to visitors as parting gifts.
• BIRD OF PARADISE – Often given today from a woman to man as a symbol of faithfulness

• CACTUS – Endurance, My Heart Burns with Love
• CALLA LILY – Magnificent Beauty
• CAMELLIA – Admiration, Perfection, Good Luck Gift for a Man, Gratitude

• CAMELLIA (PINK) – Longing
• CAMELLIA (RED) – You’re a flame in my heart
• CAMELLIA (WHITE) – Adoration, Perfection, Loveliness
• CARNATION (GENERAL) – Fascination, Devoted Love
• CARNATION (PINK) – I’ll never forget you, Women’s Love
• CARNATION (RED) – My heart aches for you, Admiration
• CARNATION (DEEP RED) – Alas! for my poor heart
• CARNATION (WHITE) – Sweet & Lovely, Innocence, Pure Love, Woman’s Good Luck Gift
• CATCHFLY (RED) – Youthful Love, I Fall Victim
• CHAMOMILE – Stands for perseverance in adversity and humility; helps a person overcome feelings of melancholy and anger; attracts love and prosperity.
• CHRYSANTHEMUM (RED) – Love
• CHRYSANTHEMUM (WHITE) – Truth
• CHRYSANTHEMUM (YELLOW) – Slighted Love
• CLOVER (FOUR-LEAF) – Be Mine
• CLOVER (WHITE) – Think of Me
• COXCOMB – Unfading Love
• DAFFODIL – Regard, Unrequited Love, Sunshine, Respect, The sun shines when I’m with you

• DAFFODIL (YELLOW ) – Chivalry
• DAHLIA – Dignity and Elegance, Forever Thine
• DAISY – Innocence, Loyal Love, I’ll Never tell, Purity, Beauty
• DANDELION – Faithfulness, Happiness, Love’s oracle
• DILL – Lust

• FERN (MAIDENHAIR) – Secret bond of love, Discretion
• FERN (ROYAL) – Reverie
• FORGET ME NOT – True Love, Memories
• FUCHSIA (SCARLET) – Confiding Love, Taste
• FURZE – Love for All Occasions

• GARDENIA – You’re lovely, Secret love, Purity, Refinement
• GARLIC – Courage, Strength, Get well, Ward Off Evil & Illness. It is also seen to be an effective aphrodisiac.
• GLOBE AMARANTH – Unfading Love
• GLOXINIA – Love at first sight

• HEART’S EASR/PURPLE/JOHNNY JUMP UP – You Occupy My Thoughts
• HELIOTROPE – Devotion
• HENBANE – For Males to Attract Love from Females
• HIBISCUS – Consumed by Love, Delicate Beauty
• HONEYFLOWER – Sweet, Secret love, Generous Affection, Sweetness of Disposition
• HONEYSUCKLE – The Bond of Love
• HONEYSUCKLE (CORAL) – I Love You

• IPOMACA – I Attach Myself to You
• IRIS – Faith, Wisdom, Promise in Love, Hope, Wisdom & Valor
• IRIS (YELLOW) – Passion
• IVY – Wedded Love, Fidelity, Friendship, Affection

• JAPONICA – Sincerity, Symbol of Love
• JASMINE (INDIAN) – Attachment
• JASMINE (SPANISH) – Sensuality
• JONQUIL – Love Me, Affection Returned, Desire, Sympathy

• LAVENDER – Love, Devotion. It was once a custom to scent a bride’s bedclothes with lavender on her wedding night to soothe her fears.
• LEMON BLOSSOM – Fidelity in Love; I Promise to be True
• LETTUCE – A bit of a contradicting lore here, the Romans believed that the lettuce plant was a powerful aphrodisiac. It was also served in quantity at feasts and weddings for these reasons and also because it was thought to prevent drunkenness.
  In England on the other hand country people traditionally believed that planting lots of lettuce in the garden could prevent conception!
• LILAC (PURPLE) – First emotions of love
• LILY (WHITE) – Virginity, Purity, Majesty, It’s Heavenly to be with You, Youth
• LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING/AMARANTHUS – Hopeless, Not Heartless, Desertion
• LOTUS – Estranged love, Forgetful of the Past
• LUNGWORT – Thou Art My Life

• MARIGOLD (COMMON) – Pretty Love, Sacred,Affection, Caress, Sorrow
• MARJORAM – Joy, Happiness
• MIMOSA – Secret Love
• MINT – Virtue. Represents both the coldness of fear and the warmth of love. Hang a sachet in your window for good luck, happiness, parting of the ways, new beginnings, and release of anger.
• MISTLETOE – Kiss me, Affection, Difficulties, Sacred plant of India,
• MORNING GLORY – Affection
• MOSS – Maternal Love, Charity
• MOTHERWORT – Secret Love

• ONION – Carve each lover’s name on an onion and then set them aside; whichever onion sprouts first is the lover for you. Some sources insist that this works best when performed on December 1.
• ORANGE BLOSSOM – Innocence, Eternal Love, Marriage, Fruitfulness
• ORANGE, MOCK – Deceit
• ORCHID – Love, Beauty, Refinement, Chinese Symbol for Many Children, Thoughtfulness

• PARSLEY – Bad luck will come your way especially if you cut some for your cooking and you are in love at the same time, or transplant it, or give it away.
• PANSY – Merriment, Thoughts (You Occupy My Thoughts)
• PEAR – Affection
• PEACH BLOSSOM – I am your Captive
• PEONY – Happy Marriage, Compassion, Bashfulness
• PEPPERMINT – Cordiality
• PERIWINKLE/VINCA/MYRTLE – Early Recollections, Pleasures of Memories, Sweet Memories
• PETUNIA – Your Presence Soothes Me
• PHLOX – Our souls are united, Unanimity
• PINK- Pure Affection
• POPPY (RED) – Pleasure
• PRIMROSE – I Can’t Live Without You, Woman

• RANUNCULUS – I am Dazzled by your Charms
• RHUBARB – Advice
• ROSE (BRIDAL) – Happiness. Rosebuds symbolize love and devotion: White roses symbolize innocent love; red roses, passionate love; pink roses, simple love; yellow roses, friendship. To revitalize your love life, sprinkle rosewater on the bed. As a flower essence, rose dispels shame about sexuality and helps users fulfill their true desire.
• ROSE (CORAL) – Desire
• ROSE (DAMASK) – Freshness, Persian Ambassador of Love
• ROSE (HIBISCUS) – Delicate, Beauty
• ROSE (LEAF) – You may Hope
• ROSE (LAVENDER) – Enchantment
• ROSE (ORANGE) – Fascination
• ROSE (PINK) – Perfect Happiness, Secret Love, Grace & Sweetness, Indecision
• ROSE (DARK PINK) – Thankfulness
• ROSE (PALE PINK) – Grace, Joy
• ROSE (RED) – Love, I love you, Respect, Beauty
• ROSE (TEA) – I’ll Remember – Always
• ROSE (THORNLESS) – Love at first sight, Early Attachment
• ROSE (YELLOW) – Joy, Jealousy, Friendship (one yellow rose with 11 red ones means love & passion)
• ROSEBUD (RED) – Pure & Lovely
• ROSEBUD (MOSS) – Confessions of Love
• ROSES (Bouquet of full bloom) – Gratitude
• ROSES (Single full bloom) – I truly love you, Simplicity.
• ROSE (MUSK CLUSTER) – Charming
• ROSE-OF-SHARON – Consumed by Love
• ROSEMARY – Remembrance

• SAGE – Wisdom, Great Respect, Speedwell Female Fidelity
• SNAPDRAGON – Gracious Lady, Strength
• SPEARMINT – Warm Sentiment
• SPIDER FLOWER – Elope with me
• STOCK- Bonds of Affection, Promptness, You’ll Always Be Beautiful to Me
• SUNFLOWER ( DWARF) – Adoration
• SWEETPEA – Good-by, Departure, Blissful Pleasure, Thank You for a Lovely Time
• SWEET-SULTAN – Felicity, Happiness
• SWEET-WILLIAM – Grant me one smile, Gallantry

• TRUMPET FLOWER/ANGEL’S TRUMPET/DATURA – Separation
• TULIP (GENERAL) – Perfect Lover, Fame, Flower Emblem of Holland
• TULIP (RED) -Believe me, Declaration of Love
• TULIP (VARIEGATED) – Beautiful eyes
• TULIP (YELLOW) – There’s Sunshine In Your Smile
• TURNIP – Charity

• VALERIAN – Accommodating Disposition
• VERONICA SPEEDWELL – Fidelity
• VIOLET – Modesty, Virtue, Affection
• VIOLET (BLUE) – Watchfulness, Faithfulness, Love
• VIOLET (WHITE) – Let’s Take A Chance On Happiness
• VIRGIN’S BOWER/CLEMATIS – Filial Love (Filial: referring to a son or daughter)

• WALL FLOWER/GILLY FLOWER – Faithful in Adversity, Fidelity, Lasting Beauty
• WINDFLOWER – Sincerity, Symbol of Love
• WORMWOOD/ARTEMISIA – Absence, Do not be discouraged
• YARROW – Cure for heartache

• ZEPHYR FLOWER- Sincerity, Symbol of Love
• ZINNIA (MAGENTA) – Lasting Affection
• ZINNIA (MIXED) – Thinking (or in memory) of an Absent Friend
• ZINNIA (SCARLET) – Constancy
• ZINNIA (WHITE) – Goodness
• ZINNIA (YELLOW) – Daily Remembrance

So next time you’re buying flowers for your sweetheart, keep this list of love lore in mind to make sure you’re saying what you mean and you mean what you say!

Source:

Home and Garden Magazine, Love of Lore July 2010, Lisa Trusdale

victorianbazzare.com, The History and Language of Flowers

angliangardener.co.uk/lore/vegetables.htm

Click HERE for more on the meaning of flowers