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Spotlight Edible of the Day: Peppers

GeriMiller — Fri, 05 Apr 2013 09:00:01 +0000

Heart with pepper, soul with garlic. ~ Russian proverb

What would our culinary creations be without the pretty pepper? An essential ingredient in my summer edible landscapes, these beauties can be sweet or hot, small or large, and very, very colorful – flowers, fruit and leaves!

Sweet bells growing among tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce and flowers at Four Daughters Kitchen in Manhattan Beach

Family: Solanaceae
Genus: Capsicum Species:annuum
(REMEMBER: Since this is a plant that belongs to the Solanaceae family, use crop rotation to avoid planting in the same garden area in consecutive seasons. Other Solanaceae family vegetables, fruits and flowers includes: potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, sweet peppers, chili… peppers (but not black pepper), tobacco and petunias.

CLIMATIC REQUIREMENTS

Being a tropical plant, peppers thrive best when temperatures are warm. Having said that, planting should not be done until the danger of frost is past in the spring. Ideal
temperatures are 70 to 80 degrees F during the day, and 60 to 70 degrees F at night.

Extremely high temperatures (90 degrees F or above) during
flowering often results in blossom drop. Fruit that set when temperatures average
above 80 degrees F may be small and poorly shaped due to heat injury to
the blossoms. Temperatures below 60 degrees F at night will also result in
blossom drop.

A shortage of water at bloom time can also result in
blossom drop or failure to set fruit. Usually, the plants set
satisfactory crops when temperatures are between 65 and 80 degrees F
and the soil is well-supplied with moisture. Avoid a soggy, water-logged soil
condition when growing peppers.

For centuries, growers have handed down methods to increase chilis pungency through slightly drought stressing plants after fruit set. Does this work? There has been some research done on this recently from New Mexico State University, College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences. Read more here: http://www.kasa.com/dpps/local_guide/local_guide_02/drought-stress-on-chile-draws-research_4649498. My experience has been that different varieties respond differently. I find fairly predictable responses from drought stress in Jalapenos and Serranos.

For such a small chile, it packs an incredibly fiery punch. Thai chiles range in color from red to green when fully mature. They are often used in Asian curries. Thai peppers should be used sparingly.

SOIL REQUIREMENTS

Pepper plants grow best in warm, well-drained soils of moderate fertility and good tilth. The plants are not particularly sensitive
to soil acidity, but best results are obtained in the 6.0 to 6.8 pH
range. Adjust soil fertility as indicated by soil test results.
Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your local
Cooperative Extension office. Organic fertilizers of a 1-2-2 ratio, such as
5-10-10 or 8-16-16 are often used for growing peppers.

A NOTE ABOUT BUYING NURSERY TRANSPLANTS

If you are buying transplants at a local garden center, select stocky, sturdy plants that have 3-5 sets
of true leaves. Although it’s tempting…avoid plants that already have flowers and fruit.

If you have no choice, be sure to remove the flowers before transplanting. This will signal the plant to shift its energy from it developing fruit to developing new roots. Water plants
thoroughly after transplanting. Avoid planting under conditions that will stunt the plants and lead to poor production, such as cold weather, lack of sufficient soil moisture, or lack of sufficient fertilizer.

Fish Peppers (Capsicum annum) were used to season fish and shellfish in the African-American communities around Baltimore and Philadelphia back in the 1930's and 1940's.

CULTURAL PRACTICES

If using traditional row planting scheme, space plants 18 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart. After the plants are well established, apply a mulch to conserve soil moisture, prevent soil compaction and help suppress weed growth. Once fruits have begun to set, an additional sidedressing of fertilizer will help promote greater plant productivity.
Control weeds – sorry guys – by hand-pulling. The disease can be reduced by proper spacing for air flow and by watering early in the day so leaves
dry well before evening. The best irrigation for veggie gardens is drip or by using soaker hoses.

PEST & DISEASE CONTROL

Check with your local Cooperative Extension for pest & disease control recommendations in your area (link to a National Database of IPM sites is below). Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.peppers.html. Aphids should be controlled as they may carry viral diseases that can affect peppers.

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will be stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop…gardeners are, above all else, patient. Unless you refuse to use any pesticides (we strive for this – organic or not), they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, In the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia) http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C853/C853.htm

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region: http://www.ipmcenters.org/

There is no guarantee that once an organic system is established there will never be a disease, weed, or insect problem. Stressful conditions that a gardener cannot control will occur, such as weeks of endless rains, droughts, periods of extremely high temperatures, hurricanes, plagues of grasshoppers, or hail. Likewise, if an airborne disease invades your area, your plants will probably be infected. However, with careful observation and preparation, an organic system should progressively have fewer pest problems as years go by.

HARVESTING AND STORAGE

Peppers are normally harvested in the immature green stage (but full size) for use in relishes, salads, for stuffing, and for flavor in many cooked dishes. However, if they are allowed to ripen on the plant they will be sweeter and higher in vitamin content. Other peppers are usually harvested at full maturity.
Be careful when breaking the peppers from the plants, as the branches are often
brittle. Hand clippers or pruners can be used to cut peppers from the plant to avoid breaking the stem. The number of peppers perplant varies with the variety. Bell pepper plants may produce 6 to 8 or more fruit per plant. In general, peppers have short storage life of only one to two weeks. Cool, moist conditions (45 to 50 degrees F) and 85 to 90 percent relative humidity are the ideal storage conditions for peppers.

Source: Ohio State Univ. Coop Ext, Cornell Univ Coop Ext

And, to do the pepper justice…a recipe video on the making of the Chili Pineapple Margarita from our friends at thedrinkchef.com

Learn about infographic design.

REMOVING OBSTACLES TO SUCCESS IN THE GARDEN

GeriMiller — Sat, 30 Mar 2013 07:00:26 +0000

Ever feel like life keeps putting boulders in our way in the garden? Yep, sometimes it sure feels that way. But, it seems to me that many times in our adult lives we abandon our bliss too quickly when we run into obstacles; not allowing time to figure a way through or around the thing blocking our way. This post is in response to some of the issues many clients and HGELers have identified to me on Facebook as being that “boulder” or “boulders” blocking their path. Let’s try to make gravel out of that boulder!

LACK OF KNOWLEDGE
BAD SOIL
HOW TO USE ORGANIC AMENDMENTS & FERTILIZERS
WHEN/HOW TO BUILD/USE RAISED BEDS
PEST MANAGEMENT
$$$

A few words on “success” and “failure”

First, remove any preconceived notions you have of both words especially when you’re a beginner. You know sometimes we just can’t seem to get out of our own way! If you have expectations that your first season gardening or your first season in a new site is going to end in some kind of “coffee table book” garden of eden…you’ll be setting yourself up for disappointment. Not only is gardening “on-the-job” training, but gardening forces we instant-gratification-loving humans to SLOW DOWN and learn within Mother Nature’s timetable….not our own. We learn by reading and discussing with other gardeners, of course, but nothing is a substitute for getting out there and getting dirty in your own garden!

This learning curve may take a few seasons to level out a bit to the point where you feel more confident. As a gardener, though, you are a life-long learner. You’re never finished learning which is why I love it. After a lifetime of gardening, certification as a Master Gardener and years teaching in school gardens, I continue to learn; returning to school last year for my certification in horticulture at UCLA. So…wipe away those expectations of grand “success” and look forward to small but important moments of success on which you will build season after season; improving poor soil, successfully starting your own seeds, taking your first harvest, becoming healthier and on and on. Whether big or small, they are all successes.

As for “failures”. When we were children we really had no fear. As we grew and developed a fear of peer disapproval when we didn’t get things right, we began to be afraid of trying new things. How sad is that? I have to quote my dear ol’ Dad who said “If you don’t fail, you don’t learn.” So, set your fears aside, follow your bliss and take that first step…or shovelful! We’ll be learning together!

Now…down to work! Here is a listing of some of the comments HGELers recently posted about what issues you all face in your gardens. I am listing some links that I think are helpful. When more info on a certain issue is available on http://www.groedibles.com/, I’ll put a link to the website as well. Have fun!

LACK OF KNOWLEDGE

In addition to HGEL on facebook, you have access to even more info on the Resourses page on groedibles.com in which you’ll find the “fall/winter gardening” and “spring/summer gardening” sections. This page will also list Gardening Classes and Events that may interest you. Be patient as the “spring/summer gardening section” is under construction. ALSO, the HGEL fan page on Facebook has been up since May 2009 so there are tons of links and postings that can help you. Pour yourself some coffee/tea or your preferred beverage and scroll down through the past postings. Wow, you might even find yourself spending as much time on HGEL as I do!!!

BAD SOIL

Now there really is no such thing as “bad soil” unless of course it’s contaminated. Otherwise, if you look around you’ll notice that something grows in your soil….maybe just not what you want to grow in your soil!

For a little lesson on soil textures, composition and tilth, please visit the Soil Evaluation, Prep and Management section of the Spring/Summer Gardening page on groedibles.com and see both fall/winter and spring/summer gardening sections.
As a garden designer that also extensively uses native plants, I know that there is a plant for just about every soil type. BUT, since we’re talking about edibles here, we’ll start off talking about which types of soil most vegetables thrive in. But first a few “dirty” words:
1. Soil texture: Texture refers to the size of the particles that make up the soil. The terms sand, silt, loam and clay refer to relative sizes of the individual soil particles. Sand is made up of the largest sized particles. Silt is medium sized and clay has the smallest sized particles. So soil texture dictates not only how well your soil drains, but also how well it retains nutrients and moisture.
2. Soil texture types: Sand: Sand, being the larger sized particles, feels gritty. There is a major difference in soil characteristics between fine sands and medium to coarse sands. Fine sands add little to the soil characteristic and do not significantly increase large pore space. An example of fine sand is the bagged sand sold for children’s sandboxes. For a soil to take on the characteristics of a sandy soil it needs greater than 50-60 percent medium to coarse size sand particles. Sandy soils have good drainage and aeration, but low water and nutrient holding capacity. Source: Colorado Master Gardeners Program Colorado Gardener Certificate Training Colorado State University Extension. Silt: Silt has a smooth or floury texture. Silt settles out in slow moving water and is common on the bottom of an irrigation ditch, riverbed or lake. Silt doesn’t add much to the characteristics of a soil. Water holding capacity is similar to clay. Clay: Clay particles are very small. Clay feels sticky to the touch. Soils with as little as 20% clay size particles behave like a sticky clayey soil. Soils with high clay content have good water and nutrient retention ability, but the lack of large pore space restricts water and air movement. Clayey soils are also rather prone to compaction issues. Loam: Technically, loam refers to a specific, well-balance soil texture. This term is often used loosely by gardeners to describe “ideal” soil. Loam, therefore has a mixture of different sized soil particles that allow it to resist compaction, allow air and water movement, retention of nutrients and…of course, has plenty of organic material. In other words…we as gardeners strive for a “loamy” soil.
3. Soil Structure: Structure refers to how the soil particles hang together, how much of the soil particles form into clods or crumbs. No matter what your soil texture, loose crumbs and clods ensure ample pore space which allows air and water to pass through more easily. Keep in mind that good soil structure can compensate for less-than-perfect soil texture. Abundance of organic matter is the main indicator of good soil structure. Organic matter may be all you need powdery soil or large, hard clods.
4. Soil Tilth: The term soil tilth refers to the soil’s general ability to support plant growth and root growth. Tilth is technically defined as “the physical condition of soil as related to its ease of tillage, fitness of seedbed, and impedance to seedling emergence and root penetration.” A soil with good tilth has large pore spaces that allows for sufficient air and water movement. (Roots only grow where the soil tilth allows for adequate levels of soil oxygen.) It also holds a reasonable supply of water and nutrients. Soil tilth is a function of soil texture, structure, fertility, and the interplay with organic content and the living soil organisms that help make-up the soil ecosystem. Source: Colorado Master Gardeners Program, Colorado Gardener Certificate Training, Colorado State University Extension
5. Organic Matter: Organic matter consists of plant and animal material that is in the process of decomposing.
6. Humus: Humus is organic matter in its final stage of decomposition. It is a fine, dark substance that is chemically very complex. Humus gives rich, fertile soil its dark color. It promotes healthy plant growth in many ways, from keeping existing soil nutrients available to enhancing soil structure for good root growth.

Ok… now you know some of the soil lingo. Let’s get to the nitty gritty. If you evaluate your soil and decide that it’s in fairly good shape but needs some improving and you’re willing to put the time and energy into it in order to grow edibles, it CAN be done. Just remember that, for instance, to get a heavy clay soil to a loam state will mean that you’ll need to dedicate plenty of time and organic matter to soil improvement and then soil re-invigoration each and every year as your native soil will be constantly working to return to its native state…that’s just, well, natural!

READY FOR THE BIG SECRET? Shhhhh….edibles prefer a nice loose (large pores – yeah for once, they’re a GOOD thing!), rich in nutrient-rich humus (no, not the stuff that comes w/ pita chips) that has a fairly neutral to a bit acidic pH of around 6.8 to 7.2 There are exceptions…see “understanding the impact of soil pH” below.

Improving your Soil:

Before you begin, there are two things you need to know:
1. Knowing your soil texture. You must identify your soil texture and structure. Here’s a great resource on this from our friends ‘down under’, NSW Dept of Ag: http://www.namoi.cma.nsw.gov.au/sh_soiltexture.pdf.
2. Soil testing: If you haven’t ever done one or it has been awhile, it’s always a good idea to test your soil so that you can correct any deficiencies in pH or fertility BEFORE you plant. There are inexpensive soil test kits to use at home available from nurseries, hardware or “Big Box” home improvement stores but if you have concerns about other contaminates or heavy metals, there are many local labs that can do more detailed screening. Please contact your county’s local Cooperative Extension Office for a list. http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/
- Understanding the impact that soil pH has on your plants’ ability to access the nutrients in the soil is critical in maintaining a balanced growing environment and providing the best results: A BUMPER CROP! Here is a link to a helpful article about Soil pH Modification from the experts at the University of Minnesota. http://www.extension.org/pages/Soil_pH_Modification
- Most turfgrasses tend to grow best between 5.5 and 6.5. Many evergreen trees and shrubs prefer a pH range of 5.0 to 6.0. Potatoes tolerate a wide range in soil pH, but potato scab can be a problem if the pH is above 5.3. Other exceptions include blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons (acid-loving plants) that require acid conditions between pH 4.5 and 5.2. Blue hydrangeas also require a pH lower than 5.0 to induce the blue flower color. Carl J. Rosen, Peter M. Bierman, and Roger D. Eliason. Department of Soil, Water, and Climate. University of Minnesota. -
- Understanding Soil Fertility: Macro and Micro Nutrients:
  Macronutrients: Essential elements used by plants in relatively large amounts for plant growth are called macronutrients. The major macronutrients are:
  
  Nitrogen (N)
  
  * Nitrogen is a part of all living cells and is a necessary part of all proteins, enzymes and metabolic processes involved in the synthesis and transfer of energy.
  * Nitrogen is a part of chlorophyll, the green pigment of the plant that is responsible for photosynthesis.
  * Helps plants with rapid growth, increasing seed and fruit production and improving the quality of leaf and forage crops.
  * Nitrogen often comes from fertilizer application and from the air (legumes get their N from the atmosphere, water or rainfall contributes very little nitrogen)
  
  Phosphorus (P)
  
  * Like nitrogen, phosphorus (P) is an essential part of the process of photosynthesis.
  * Involved in the formation of all oils, sugars, starches, etc.
  * Helps with the transformation of solar energy into chemical energy; proper plant maturation; withstanding stress.
  * Effects rapid growth.
  * Encourages blooming and root growth.
  * Phosphorus often comes from fertilizer, bone meal, and superphosphate.
  
  Potassium (K)
  
  * Potassium is absorbed by plants in larger amounts than any other mineral element except nitrogen and, in some cases, calcium.
  * Helps in the building of protein, photosynthesis, fruit quality and reduction of diseases.
  * Potassium is supplied to plants by soil minerals, organic materials, and fertilizer.
  
  Calcium (Ca)
  
  * Calcium, an essential part of plant cell wall structure, provides for normal transport and retention of other elements as well as strength in the plant. It is also thought to counteract the effect of alkali salts and organic acids within a plant.
  * Sources of calcium are dolomitic lime, gypsum, and superphosphate.
  
  Magnesium (Mg)
  
  * Magnesium is part of the chlorophyll in all green plants and essential for photosynthesis. It also helps activate many plant enzymes needed for growth.
  * Soil minerals, organic material, fertilizers, and dolomitic limestone are sources of magnesium for plants.
  
  Sulfur (S)
  
  * Essential plant food for production of protein.
  * Promotes activity and development of enzymes and vitamins.
  * Helps in chlorophyll formation.
  * Improves root growth and seed production.
  * Helps with vigorous plant growth and resistance to cold.
  * Sulfur may be supplied to the soil from rainwater. It is also added in some fertilizers as an impurity, especially the lower grade fertilizers. The use of gypsum also increases soil sulfur levels.
  
  Micronutrients: Micronutrients are those elements essential for plant growth which are needed in only very small (micro) quantities . These elements are sometimes called minor elements or trace elements, but use of the term micronutrient is encouraged by the American Society of Agronomy and the Soil Science Society of America. The micronutrients are:
  
  Boron (B)
  
  * Helps in the use of nutrients and regulates other nutrients.
  * Aids production of sugar and carbohydrates.
  * Essential for seed and fruit development.
  * Sources of boron are organic matter and borax
  
  Copper (Cu)
  
  * Important for reproductive growth.
  * Aids in root metabolism and helps in the utilization of proteins.
  
  Chloride (Cl)
  
  * Aids plant metabolism.
  * Chloride is found in the soil.
  
  Iron (Fe)
  
  * Essential for formation of chlorophyll.
  * Sources of iron are the soil, iron sulfate, iron chelate.
  
  Manganese (Mn)
  
  * Functions with enzyme systems involved in breakdown of carbohydrates, and nitrogen metabolism.
  * Soil is a source of manganese.
  
  Molybdenum (Mo)
  
  * Helps in the use of nitrogen
  * Soil is a source of molybdenum.
  
  Zinc (Zn)
  
  * Essential for the transformation of carbohydrates.
  * Regulates consumption of sugars.
  * Part of the enzyme systems which regulate plant growth.
  * Sources of zinc are soil, zinc oxide, zinc sulfate, zinc chelate.

Adding Amendments and Using Organic Fertilizers

The simple secret to improving ANY soil type is adding plenty of organic matter (the best is from your very own compost pile of course but you can purchase it from a nursery or local source).
Cornell University Cooperative Extension "Fertilizing Garden Soil"

Most states’ recycling programs will have a directory to private producers of mulch and compost but BEWARE – make sure your source produces from green waste or ag and is organic. Here are some state links to searchable directories or listings of local producers:
California: http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/organics/SupplierList/default.asp
Southern CA: http://www.aguinagagreen.com/Mulch,_Compost,_Top_Soil,_and_more/Home.html
Pennsylvania: http://www.proprecycles.org/Compost%20Directory.html
Texas: http://www.texasdisposal.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=58&Itemid=136
USA National Listing: http://www.compostingcouncil.org/network/storefronts.php?category=all&product_category&state
Canada: http://www.compost.org/memberMap/memberMap.cfm

How much is effective? Well, it does depend on your soil, but typically I’d say you’d be wasting your $$ and time if you’re adding any less than two inches.

HGEL's M-Brace Raised beds finished at Post and Beam Restaurant, Baldwin Hills

WHEN/HOW TO BUILD/USE RAISED BEDS

Of course there are plenty of reasons to use raised beds for your edible gardens:
1. Native soil is just too much of a battle to improve to the point where it will support edibles.
2. Site is not level.
3. Ease of use (up higher than ground level).
4. Pest management.

Here are my design recommendations for raised beds:
1. Materials: There are many options when it comes to this. My preference is cedar or redwood. Do not use pressure treated wood. http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/treatedlumber.html I’ve also used ash blocks or broken concrete. Use recycled materials whenever possible.
2. Dimensions and depth: I don’t make the bed any wider than 4 ft just because that is what is comfortable for me to reach the middle and opposite side of the bed without . Depth: though many of these videos may recommend depths of just 6 inches, I prefer at least 18″ (24″ is even better) to accommodate the deeper rooting plants like tomatoes and watermelon.
3. Pest control: I attach hardware cloth or small square chicken wire (heavy gauge) to the bottom to keep out gophers and moles.

Here are some good links to information & videos on constructing your own beds (these were all posted on HGEL recently):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPrMvItUIuQ&feature=player_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHkLjtM-CwE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBKcoezxqkU&NR=1
http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/building-a-raised-bed/index.html
http://www.sunset.com/garden/perfect-raised-bed-00400000039550/
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/treatedlumber.html

Purchasing Raised Bed Systems

http://www.naturalyards.com/
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/la/gardening/look-small-space-tiered-planter-080906
http://www.minifarmbox.com/mfb/homebox.html
http://www.artofthegarden.net

PEST MANAGEMENT

My gospel: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/menu.homegarden.html
I choose to use biological or cultural controls first, then move to organic chemical treatments only if absolutely necessary.
Also see the HGEL photo album on pests and diseases and the fall/winter gardening section of groedibles.com for some pest info.
http://groups.ucanr.org/sonomamg/Feature_Articles/Stay_Away_Deer.htm
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
http://www.calicotardis.com/gophers.pdf (please see page 7 on barrier controls)

ONE MORE THING…$$$$

Economic Barriers to Gardening. Well, in addition to the free advice at HGEL, you also have your local county extension offices – the home of those great Master Gardeners: http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/ AND a great source for free seeds and advice for those of you that find yourself in need at http://www.dinnergarden.org/. They are a non-profit (also a fan of HGEL) whose mission is to end hunger in the US by giving folks who need them, free seeds and gardening support. Please visit their website, and if you can, donate to this worthy cause!

Happier Gardening!

Spotlight Edible Of The Day: Cole Crops – Broccoli

HGEL — Mon, 25 Mar 2013 10:00:00 +0000

“I do not like broccoli. And I haven’t liked it since I was a little kid and my mother made me eat it. And I’m President of the United States and I’m not going to eat any more broccoli.”
George H. W. Bush

Spotlight Edible of the Day: Broccoli

Besides that presidential dig some years back, broccoli is doing just fine, thank you very much! Consumption of broccoli has shot up in the last couple of decades. A third of American households are eating it at least once every two weeks, up 33 percent since that infamous quote! And since a Georgetown University study in 2011 found that isothiocyanates (ITCs) found in broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables caused cancer cells to die, well, let’s just say broccoli is no longer the awkward kid no one talks to at the party!

Family – Brassica oleracea var. italica. Cole crops are a group of veggies that belong to the mustard family – Brassicaceae (previously known as Cruciferae). The varieties included in this family are Broccoli (italica), Cauliflower (botrytis), Cabbage (capitat, tuba and sabauda), Brussel Sprouts (gemmifera), Kale and Collards (acephala) and Kohlrabi (gongyloides). Depending on the variety, these cool season crops may be herbaceous annuals, biennials or perennials.

Brassica oleracea var. italica, one of the oldest of the cole crops, originated in Europe and Asia and claim wild cabbage as their ancester. Broccoli comes in two types: sprouting (small shoots) and heading (one large head).

CLIMATE, SOIL AND CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS

Climatic Requirements – Cole crops are cool weather vegetables, growing best when daytime temperatures are between 65 and 80 F and planted in a

http://www.Naturalhealthyconcepts.com (click on image to enlarge)

sunny spot. Temperatures dipping below 40 F will cause harm and possibly early bolting. In many locations, broccoli is grown as a spring and fall crop.

Soil Requirements - HGEL recommends doing a soil test before planting in a new bed and at least once every three years after that. Tests are the only way to really know what steps you need to take to make your soil great. Without one, it’s a stab in the dark and you may waste money adding amendments and fertilizers you may not need.

Although broccoli will grow in a wide variety of soils, a sandy loam is best. All of the cole crops grow well in reasonably fertile, well-drained, moist soils with plenty of added organic matter. The pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A pH in this range will cut down on diseases that plague this crop like clubroot disease and keep nutrients available to plants. A mulch will help with soil temperature and moisture retention.

Cultural Requirements

Planting: Although many of you may have different perspectives on this, it has been my experience that both broccoli and cauliflower do best when set out as transplants rather than planted from seed. A good transplant is 5 to 6 weeks old, sturdy with good color. Older plants or those that have already formed small heads won’t yield as well as younger plants so be selective at the nursery.

Your careful soil prep and correct planting time (not too early) will ensure vigorous growth once plants are planted to prevent the flowering heads of broccoli from “buttoning”. “Buttons” are small, unusable heads on small plants stunted by insufficient or inconsistent watering practices, weeds, or insects. A few days of low temperature (35oF to 50o F) can also cause buttons to develop. Choose your planting time carefully!

If you’re planting from seed, sow seeds 1/4 inch deep space rows 24 to 36 inches apart, setting transplants or thinning seedlings 18 inches apart. In the case of cole crops, proper spacing is important for maximum crop yield.

Fertilizing: Having done a soil test before planting and adding lots of good compost, your soil should be adequately fertile come planting time. One thing to keep in mind is that Broccoli (and cole crops in general) are heavy nitrogen feeders. Nitrogen is the most mobile of the macro nutrients and is taken up quickly by heavy N feeding plants like broccoli. Synthetic N can leach out of soil very fast through irrigation and run off. HGEL ALWAYS recommends avoiding synthetic fertilizers, using only organic materials that will provide the nutrients you need to replace/replenish.

Here’s a great guide from the University of Georgia: “How to Convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic One” – http://www.caes.uga.edu/Publications/displayHTML.cfm?pk_id=7170 . Scroll down to Table 1. Guide to the Mineral Nutrient Value of Organic Fertilizers which shows you what nutrients the listed fertilizer will replace and how fast.

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity hence making your soil more fertile naturally. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL has often advised, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants N needs can be met via cover cropping.

Crop Rotation: Crop rotation is an important cultural practice for cole crops to avoid disease problems. Rotate crops by alternating the location of plantings with a different crop each year. Try to avoid planting plants from the same family in the same place for at least two seasons…three is better. Here is a great resource from Iowa State on crop rotation: http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1998/3-27-1998/rotateg.html

Irrigation: Cole crops do require regular watering which is especially important if your soil texture tends toward the sandy side. Remember though that over-watering can lead to many problems like disease and even attract pests. HGEL always prefers a drip or micro-spray system as this cuts down water splashing and excessive leaf wetting which helps to avoid water transmitted fungal diseases like powdery mildew and blight. It also conserves water.

Photo via http://gourmandeinthekitchen.com/2012/creamy-broccoli-spinach-soup-recipe/

Weed Control and Mulching: Use shallow cultivation for weed control. Deep cultivation close to the plants will damage the root systems and reduce yield and quality. During the growing season, control weeds by mulching and hand-pulling. These strategies are the best means of control in a small planting. During the winter and spring months, periodically check the planting for the development of winter weeds that should be removed. Many organic growers apply natural mulches such as straw, leaves or compost around the plants, after they become established, to control weeds. This practice is well-worth the labor as it conserves soil moisture, attracts earthworms and eventually enriches the growing area with organic matter and nutrients.

Organic Pest/Disease Control -

Here is a link to UC Davis IPM site about some common pests and diseases of cole crops: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.cole-crops.html

Pest Management Pests/Insects: Pest problems will vary depending on where you’re gardening.

Flea beetles and root maggots can cause serious damage to cole crops, chewing away the roots of young seedlings so they wilt and die. Covering beds or rows with floating row covers of spun-bonded polyester for the first month of more of growth will prevent attacks by both these pests.

The larval stages of several different species of moths can also cause serious damage. Row covers left on throughout the growing season, or regular applications of Bt (Bacillus thuriengiensis), an organic bacterial poison that kills only caterpillars, will control cabbage worms of all species. http://www.planetnatural.com/site/safer-dust.html.

Disease Management: To control fungal and soilborne bacterial diseases, rotate your planting site (see above) and irrigate correctly.

Some common diseases…

Downy mildew caused by Peronospora parasitica is the major fungal disease in broccoli. University research has shown that foliage can suffer a substantial amount of mildew lesions without affecting yield or quality. Mildew-tolerant varieties are available.

Black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) occurs occasionally in Imperial County. It is usually introduced to a farm through infected seed or transplants. Field conditions are not usually conducive for development of this disease in the desert. Use disease-free planting material.

Cladosporium sp. are often surface contaminants on broccoli heads especially during rainy periods or when there is heavy morning dew.

Clubroot is a soil-borne disease causing stunted plants which wilt even in moist soil. Raise the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 if this disease is a problem. AGAIN – practice rotation!

Are the plants undernourished or stressed from growing too quickly?
Is there a nutrient imbalance?
Is the soil too wet or too dry?
Has a good crop rotation been followed?
Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.) http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western. Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region: http://www.ipmcenters.org/

http://ucanr.org/freepubs/docs/7251.pdf

Harvest/Storage Harvest:

Broccoli heads are removed by hand by snapping the stem. Broccoli requires rapid cooling to insure preservation of quality. Harvested heads should be taken to the cooler immediately.

“If bunched broccoli is stored at 32°F with a relative humidity of 90-95 percent, it should have a 10-14 day shelf life. At higher temperatures the shelf life will decrease drastically. Storage at 50°F, for example, will reduce the shelf life to 5 days. Excessive storage time will cause yellowing and softening of the tissue and beads. Off-flavor and bad odor may also develop.Broccoli should never be stored with ethylene sources such as ripening melons, avocados, bananas, apples, or pears. Exposure to ethylene will accelerate the yellowing of beads.” Keith S. Mayberry, Farm Advisor, U.C. Cooperative Extension, Imperial County.

Photo via gourmandeinthekitchen.com

Recipe: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/parmesan-roasted-broccoli-recipe/index.html

http://gourmandeinthekitchen.com/2012/creamy-broccoli-spinach-soup-recipe/

Looking over the Four Leaf Clover!

GeriMiller — Thu, 07 Mar 2013 09:05:46 +0000

May your blessings outnumber the shamrocks that grow, And may trouble avoid you wherever you go.
~Irish Blessing

The Cute Clover

Wishing you a Happy St. Paddy’s Day! Here’s hoping you come across many four leaf clovers! In case you were wondering about our venerable clover, here are a few fun factoids:

What do the leaves mean?

One leaf is for FAITH… The second for HOPE…

The third for LOVE… And the fourth for LUCK!

What about the three-leaf clover (Shamrock)?

In Irish Catholic tradition the Shamrock represents the Holy Trinity: one leaf for the Father, one for the Son and one for the Holy Spirit. When a Shamrock is found with the fourth leaf, it represents God’s Grace.

White clover (Trifolium repens forma minus, family Leguminosae)

White clover is Ireland’s original Shamrock and was held in high esteem by the early Celts of Wales as a charm against evil spirits. Clover Science and Technology. N.L. Taylor, 1985.

Druids

The Druids held the four leaf clover in high esteem and considered them a sign of luck.

Source: Clovers Online

Why is the clover “lucky” for gardeners?

White Clover is a very good nitrogen fixing cover crop!

It is being used in poorer countries as a sustainable way to rehabilitate top soil-depleted farm and pasturelands.

“Beside supplying N, white clover also mobilized other nutrients which led to increase their concentration in soil. White clover would enhance the nutrient status of soil if introduced in the
agriculture ecosystem” M. KALEEM ABBASI, et al. Department of Soil and Environmental Sciences, Faculty of Agriculture, University of Azad Jammu and Kashmir, Pakistan. Pak. J. Bot., 41(1): 41-51, 2009.

It’s a great grazing crop for livestock.

It attracts bees!

It also helps bees make delicious honey!

It’s a tasty and nutritious wild edible!

The leaves and blossoms of clover are high in calcium, chromium, magnesium, niacin, phosphorus, potassium, thiamine, and vitamin C. Read more about the medicinal qualities of red clover from the University of Maryland Medical Center. Considered a dark green vegetable, clover has the same healthy nutritional qualities that spinach does.

Clover Recipes

CLOVER SOUP

2 cups clover flowers and leaves
1 onion, chopped
3 Tbsp. butter
2 pints water
3 potatoes, peeled and quartered
Salt and pepper to taste

Clean and dip clover flowers and leaves in cold salted water. Remove and cut into pieces. In a large saucepan, sauté flowers, leaves and onions in butter. When all is softened add water, then potatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Cook gently for 20 minutes. Drain the cooking liquid and save it. Puree potato mixture and dilute with the cooking liquid, stirring constantly. Bring to a boil, the reduce heat and simmer for 3 minutes. Can sprinkle with grated cheddar cheese if desired.

CLOVER and DILLWEED SOUP

2 cups clover blossoms and leaves, fresh or dried
2 small wild onions, chopped
4 Tbsp. sunflower seed butter
1 quart water
12 groundnuts, or 3 medium potatoes, quartered
Chopped fresh dillweed to taste
Spicebush berries, dried (aka Appalachian Allspice), grated over soup to taste. Sauté the clover blossoms and leaves along with chopped onions in the sunflower seed butter. Add the water, ground nuts, and seasonings. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Serve hot.

Source: Manataka® American Indian Council

http://www.cultural-china.com/

CLOVER CHIMICHURRI

Click here for a cooking conversion calculator.
100g clover
blanched and chopped fine
20g parsley
blanched and chopped fine
20g cilantro, blanched and chopped fine
10g fresh chile
chopped fine
5g red chili flake
10g dried oregano
30g capers chopped fine
juice of one lime
15ml red wine vinegar
5 cloves garlic, chopped fine
40ml good olive oil
salt and pepper .

Preparations: Combine all ingredients and let sit for 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Should always be made the same day you plan to eat it, recipe can be scaled up or down with no difficulty.
kaleidoscope.cultural-china.com

So whatever you do on the 17th of March (besides wearing green), as you’re strolling take a glance or two toward your feet…who knows today might be your lucky day!

HAPPY ST. PATRICK’S DAY!

Oh, for the Love of Citrus! Two newer varieties showing up in commercial nurseries…

GeriMiller — Wed, 06 Feb 2013 13:06:30 +0000

Vaniglia Sanguigno citrus - Vanilla Blood Orange

Vaniglia Sanguigno

Translated it’s “Vanilla Blood” and it does have a slight vanilla taste that makes this Blood worth a look (and taste). This is an acidless blood orange and is entirely different from any citrus I’ve tasted! I had my first bite last month at International Garden Center in El Segundo, California. Nursery manager, Deno Soria explained that over the last couple of years the Vanilla Blood was just beginning to be introduced more widely to the commercial market here. Lucky us!

Having slightly smaller fruit than the other Bloods, larger seeds, a thinner rind and a lighter reddish pink interior, many thought this variety would be slow to ‘catch on’ with we home growers….until we tasted it! They are strongly addicting. This is unfortunate because you can’t get them in the markets, so you’re just going to have to grow yourself, but we’re up for that, right? Strictly speaking, it isn’t a true blood orange. It’s coloring agent is lycopene, instead of anthocyanins found in most oranges. Lycopene is what gives grapefruits and Cara Cara Orange, the pink navel variety their color.

That day in the nursery, Deno only gave me one off the little tree, but I can honestly tell you that I was tempted to sneak back for more! The wonderful thing about the Vaniglia Sanguigno is that the fruit can ripen as early as fall in climates with mild winters and warm summers. They can also hold nicely on the tree well into spring and on the counter forever.

http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/vainiglia.html

Palestine Sweet Lime

Deno introduced me to this wonder that same day. “Sweet Lime” has a sweet (edible) as opposed to a sour rind. It is of Middle Eastern derivation, hence the name. This variety’s fruit will turn deep gold, almost light orange when fully ripe. The grower reports that, like the Vanilla Blood, it also can hold on the counter for a couple of months after picking. In fact, it will become even sweeter and more flavorful. This variety can bear very heavily so be ready with your recipes! In the garden, it tends towards a spreading habit so plan accordingly.

Sweet limes aren’t true limes at all, but occupies a strange no-man’s land of a hybrid grouping that is from the coupling of a sour orange with a citron. It does tolerate a light freeze. A delicious and pucker-free bite told me that I’d found two more stars for my cocktail garden list! http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/palestine.html

Enjoy!

If you need a general primer on the care and feeding of citrus (or anything in your backyard orchard), check out

University of CA’s THE BACKYARD ORCHARD

West Virginia University’s HOME ORCHARD MANAGEMENT

University of Arizona’s HOME ORCHARD CARE FOR MASTER GARDENERS

New Mexico State University’s PRUNING THE HOME ORCHARD

Our Better Angels and How to Support Them

GeriMiller — Tue, 27 Nov 2012 09:43:51 +0000

Together, we can do anything

A small group of thoughtful people could change the world.
Indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.

Margaret Mead

There are so many ways you can help…with your time or donation. Just knowing that there are good people doing great things in your community can help inspire you. Here are just a few of HGEL’s favorite organizations:

Supporting Young Farmers

National Young Farmers Coalition: NYFC works for young farmers by strengthening their social networks, helping them hone their skills through the facilitation of peer-to-peer learning, and fighting for the policies that will keep them farming for a lifetime.

Beginning Farmers – “Beginningfarmers.org is an effort to develop a comprehensive and up to date compilation of information resources for new, experienced, and potential farmers, as well as educators, activists, and policy makers interested in the development of new farm enterprises.”

The Greenhorns: “The Greenhorns is a grassroots non-profit organization made up of young farmers and many collaborators. Our mission is to recruit, promote and support the new generation of young farmers in this ample and able 21st century America.”

End Hunger/Food Security

by Column Five Media. Learn about infographics software.

Hover your cursor over the picture and click on the ‘info’ icon to view enlarged infographic

The Dinner Garden – “The Dinner Garden is working to end hunger in the United States through home and community gardening. We are striving to create one garden for every six Americans.”

Feeding America – “Feeding America is the nation’s leading domestic hunger-relief charity. Our mission is to feed America’s hungry through a nationwide network of member food banks and engage our country in the fight to end hunger.” http://www.emagazine.com/view/?5467

Slow Food USA – “Slow Food is an idea, a way of living and a way of eating. It is a global, grassroots movement with thousands of members around the world that links the pleasure of food with a commitment to community and the environment.”

Roots of Change – “Roots of Change was created with the intent of growing a network of diverse stakeholders united by the vision of healthy, affordable, safe, just and ecologically responsible food and agriculture in California by the year 2030.”

Food Declaration – “…serve the good food movement by collaborating with others on a declaration that could be used to spark the public’s action on national policy.”

Food Gatherers -”Food Gatherers exists to alleviate hunger and eliminate its causes in our community by: reducing food waste through the rescue and distribution of food; coordinating with other hunger relief providers; educating the public about hunger; and developing new food resources.”

Create the Good- Fight Hunger – “Create The Good is where good people get connected to opportunities to make a positive impact.”

Community Food Security Coalition – “The Community Food Security Coalition (CFSC) is a North American coalition of diverse people and organizations working from the local to international levels to build community food security.”

Community Food Advocates – “Community Food Advocates is a new organization with a rich history and a big mission: to end hunger and create a healthy, just, and sustainable food system.”

California Food and Justice Coalition -”The California Food and Justice Coalition (CFJC) is a state-wide membership coalition that promotes the basic human right to healthy, affordable food while advancing social, agricultural, environmental and economic justice.”

Toronto YOUTH Food Policy Council – “As a group of food passionate youth, we will continue to create routes of agency for our peers within Toronto municipal food policy sector and become a hub for our City’s many young people who care about the future of their food supply.”

Growing Hope – “Growing Hope grew out of the efforts of the Perry Learning Garden (PLG), originally conceived in 1999 as a single school and neighborhood garden site. Growing Hope has been empowering local communities to grow and eat healthy food.”

Kitchen Gardeners International – “Kitchen Gardeners International is a 501c3 nonprofit community of over 20,000 people from 100 countries who are growing some of their own food and helping others to do the same, both near and far. Our mission is to empower individuals, families, and communities to achieve greater levels of food self-reliance.”

The Wholesome Wave Foundation – “The mission of Wholesome Wave is to nourish neighborhoods by supporting increased production and access to healthy, fresh, and affordable locally grown food for the well-being of all.”

Detroit Black Community Food Security Network – http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=103029193924&v=info – “Detroit Black Community Food Security Network has worked tirelessly to raise our awareness about food, where it comes from, who controls it, and the role it plays in building healthy families and communities. We have created models of community self-determination and grassroots citizen engagement that have attracted national attention.”

Detroit Food Justice Task Force – “The Detroit Food Justice Task Force is a consortium of People of Color led organizations and allies that share a commitment to creating a food security plan for Detroit that is: sustainable; that provides healthy, affordable foods for all of the city’s people; that is based on best-practices and programs that work; and that is just and equitable in the distribution of food, jobs and profits.”

Freedom/Freedom Growers – “The Feedom-Freedom Growers of Detroit began in 2008 in order to address community needs and grow community institutions that were otherwise being dismissed. It started as a single garden bed, and has grown to large parcels of land, as well as within the hearts and minds of the Manistique community.”

Sustainable Economic Enterprises of LA (SEE-LA) – “The mission of SEE-LA is to promote and engage in self-sustaining community and economic development activities within the City of Los Angeles, including sustainable food systems, social and cultural progams, and economic revitalization projects such as the Hollywood Farmers Market (among many others) and The Farmer’s Kitchen.”

Any Foodbank! For a national listing by zipcode, click HERE.

Community Food Security Coalition – “The Community Food Security Coalition (CFSC) is a North American coalition of diverse people and organizations working from the local to international levels to build community food security.”

Cooperative Food Empowerment Directive - “CoFed is a new Berkeley-based, national training program and research institute empowering students to create ethically-sourced, cooperatively-run sustainable food storefronts and cafés on college campuses.”

Real Food Challenge – “Uniting students for just and sustainable food.”

The Food Project - “Since 1991, The Food Project has built a national model of engaging young people in personal and social change through sustainable agriculture.”

The California Student Sustainability Coalition – “The California Student Sustainability Coalition unites, connects, supports, and empowers students from across California to transform their educational institutions and communities into models of ecological, economic, and social sustainability.”

GoSo (Go Serve Others) - ”To transform the lives of our youth, growing an awareness of the value of community through life in the garden. GoSo has operated its agricultural program since 2005 in St. Charles , IL in partnership with UIC Champaign Horticultural Dept. The program has now expanded to Geneva, IL, West Englewood and North Lawndale communities.”

City Harvest – “City Harvest is and always has been the New York City community’s response to hunger. We link the food industry and countless organizations, foundations, corporations and private citizens together to help feed their hungry neighbors. Each week we help feed more than 300,000 hungry men, women and children.”

Supporting School Gardens

Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Program in Your County – These volunteers have been working to improve food security and education for decades. MG’s have been an integral part of establishing and teaching in many school gardens all over the country. With deep budget cuts negatively effecting these programs in every state, your support is sorely needed!

“Seeds to Success” Youth Farmstands — Glassboro, Paulsboro & Woodbury (Rutgers University) – “Now in its 8th year, Seeds to Success combines year-round, in-school business training and lifeskills education with a paid summer work experience. From September through June, youth in Bankbridge Regional and Glassboro, Paulsboro and Woodbury High Schools receive training in a variety of work-related and health topics.”

Washington Youth Garden (National Arboretum) – “Using the garden cycle as a tool, the mission of the Washington Youth Garden at the U.S. National Arboretum (WYG) is to inspire children and families to engage in self-discovery, explore relationships with food and the natural world, and contribute to the health and well-being of their communities.”

Chez Panisse Foundation (Edible Schoolyard) – “We believe every child has a right to fresh, healthy food. And we believe public school is the best place to provide it. Like physical education programs—established forty years ago in response to a presidential commission concerned about the fitness of our nation’s youth—food education and access to fresh, healthy food must become part of the public school experience.”

Garden School Foundation (Los Angeles) – “A community partnership with Los Angeles Unified School District dedicated to bringing verdant traffic buffers, sports facilities, native gardens, science gardens, kitchen gardens, and teaching kitchens to public schools. Our founding members include chef Nancy Silverton, teacher Linda Slater, principal Grace Yoon, designer Karen Haas, United Neighborhood Council representative Marva Maxey, and La Brea Bakery. Our prototype is 24th Street Elementary School in central Los Angeles.”

California School Garden Network – “By encouraging and supporting a garden in every school, we create opportunities for our children to discover fresh food, make healthier food choices, and become better nourished.”

Supporting Organics, Locavore, Sustainable, Food Safety & Policy

Organic Consumers Association – “The Organic Consumers Association (OCA) is an online and grassroots non-profit 501(c)3 public interest organization campaigning for health, justice, and sustainability. The OCA deals with crucial issues of food safety, industrial agriculture, genetic engineering, children’s health, corporate accountability, Fair Trade, environmental sustainability and other key topics.”

Organic Seed Alliance – “Seed is the foundation of our organic food system. Organic Seed Alliance (OSA) works nationally with farmers like Nash, as well as researchers, independent seed companies, and organic advocates, to create healthy, community-based seed systems.”

Pesticide Action Network International – “Pesticide Action Network (PAN) is a network of over 600 participating nongovernmental organizations, institutions and individuals in over 90 countries working to replace the use of hazardous pesticides with ecologically sound and socially just alternatives.”

ATTRA – National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service: ” Your source for the latest in sustainable agriculture and organic farming news, publications and resource materials.”

Rodale Institute - “Rodale Institute is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit dedicated to pioneering organic farming through research and outreach. For over sixty-years, we’ve been researching the best practices of organic agriculture and sharing our findings with farmers and scientists throughout the world, advocating for policies that support farmers, and educating consumers about how going organic is the healthiest options for people and the planet.”

Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York – “NOFA NY, Inc is an organization of consumers, gardeners, and farmers working together to create a sustainable regional food system which is ecologically sound and economically viable.”

Cornucopia Institute – “Seeking economic justice for the family-scale farming community. Through research, advocacy, and economic development our goal is to empower farmers – partnered with consumers – in support of ecologically produced local, organic and authentic food.”

Center for Food Safety – “The Center for Food Safety (CFS) is a non-profit public interest and environmental advocacy membership organization established in 1997 by its sister organization, International Center for Technology Assessment, for the purpose of challenging harmful food production technologies and promoting sustainable alternatives.”

Chef’s Collaborative – “Chefs collaborative is a national chef network that’s changing the sustainable food landscape using the power of connections, education and responsible buying decisions.”

Greener Partners – ”Greener Partners is contributing to the resurgence of farming activity within the Greater Philadelphia region. By reestablishing sustainable, organic farming operations, Greener Partners is impacting the way people think about their food and the environment.”

Animal/Environmental Welfare

The Gentle Barn – “Ellie and Jay Weiner see their 130 rescued farm animals as teachers, healers, friends and hero’s. Every animal at their place has been rescued from horrible abuse, neglect, and loneliness, and yet they have all survived using forgiveness, trust, love, and courage. We work with children from the inner city, group homes, mental health care facilities, foster homes, and schools to teach them that even though we are all different on the outside, on the inside we are all the same and are deserving of the same rights, respects and freedom.”

To find a farm animal shelter in your state, click HERE.

Nature Conservancy – “The Nature Conservancy is the leading conservation organization working around the world to protect ecologically important lands and waters for nature and people.”

National Wildlife Federation – “The National Wildlife Federation is America’s largest conservation organization. We work with more than 4 million members, partners and supporters in communities across the country to protect and restore wildlife habitat, confront global warming and connect with nature.”

Grist.org – “Grist has been dishing out environmental news and commentary with a wry twist since 1999 — which, to be frank, was way before most people cared about such things.”

Pollinator Partnership – The Pollinator Partnership’s mission is to promote the health of pollinators, critical to food and ecosystems, through conservation, education, and research. Signature initiatives include the NAPPC (North American Pollinator Protection Campaign), National Pollinator Week, and the Ecoregional Planting Guides.

The Xerces Society - The Xerces Society is a nonprofit organization that protects wildlife through the conservation of invertebrates and their habitat. Established in 1971, the Society is at the forefront of invertebrate protection worldwide, harnessing the knowledge of scientists and the enthusiasm of citizens to implement conservation programs.

What is so uplifting is how many of these groups are springing up all over the globe. This small list includes organizations that HGEL has chosen to contribute to or has disseminated information from but doesn’t come close to listing all our worthy organizations. If you know of similar organizations that you’d like HGEL fans to know about, please list them in a comment here along with their website link.

A Thank You Note to HGEL Friends New and Old…

GeriMiller — Mon, 19 Nov 2012 08:43:01 +0000

This installment of my GroEdibles Blog was originally posted at the close of HGEL’s first year and the first year of the Great Recession. Though most of us are still struggling, we are starting to see the light on the horizon. Your inner strength you discovered three years ago will continue to carry you through. On this Thanksgiving day, we still have much to be thankful for.

Times are hard everywhere, for everyone.

Circumstances over the last few years have forced many of us to rethink the way we live our lives. So much of what has happened may have more than a few of us feeling powerless to change the course of the wild ride we’re on. I want to remind you that no matter what challenges you face, YOU possess the talent and ability to change your life and that of those around you.

Whether it’s looking for a new job, starting a new business, committing yourself to help others in need or just committing yourself to learning something new…your belief in yourself will make it happen.

In my own case, the HGEL fan page on Face book was born out of a simple need to better support my fellow gardeners and further the mission of Master Gardeners. Out of that came, very accidentally, a different path for me that I would have never recognized had I not been “open” to the possibility.

So set your fears aside, seek your bliss, embrace and give thanks for what’s truly important in your life and take that first step… or shovel-full. Be patient. We’re all starting over in some way. This is an opportunity to re-examine the way we live, the path we’re on and do something better.

Live a bit simpler...closer…greener… focussing on what’s really important.

And if you need a little inspiration, watch the videos below that tells the story of a very special volunteer project about how a local Big Business, a talented young chef, HGEL fans and I came together to restore an edible garden.

Be sure to lean a little more on friends and family now. After all, we are all in this together. I send my thanks out to the wonderful HGEL friends I’ve made, old and new, THANK YOU. You have truly been an incredible gift!

You continue to inspire me everyday!

With great gratitude,
Geri Miller

Pansy: (many varietal names) Black prince, Black Magic, Black Accord, Rippling waters – These edible flowers are about as close to true black as you can get, very striking! COOL SEASON
Elephant ears: ‘Black magic’ & ‘Illustris’- ‘Black magic’ are just gorgeous, solid “black” leaves, while ‘Illustris’ has green veins, nice contrast. EARLY WARM SEASON (Dig up bulbs for winter)
Geranium: ‘Solstice chocolate’, ‘Aristo Black’- Rich mohagany flowers, not exactly black, but still lovely, ‘Black Velvet Salmon’ – black leaves w/ green edges and salmon blooms.
Tulip: ‘Queen of Night’ EARLY WARM SEASON
Columbine: ‘William Guiness’- Just plain pretty EARLY WARM SEASON
Torenia: ‘Clown violet’- I don’t think these are marketed as black flowers (purplish black), but they are very close!
Nemophila: “Penny black”- A true black flower, very cute little buttons of ebony with a ruffled white edge. Blooms in summer.
Snapdragon: ‘Black prince’ – The foliage does have a dark cast, but the flowers are really just deep red. COOL SEASON
Black Hollyhocks: This variety of this beloved biennial is a gorgeous color. My Hollies are still blooming in my Southern California garden.
Alternathea: Purple Knight
Aster: ‘Liliput moon’ WARM SEASON
Millet Grass: ‘Purple majesty’ COOL SEASON
Scabiosa: ‘Ace of spades’ WARM SEASON
Chocolate morning glories WARM SEASON
Husker red penstemon – purplish-black foliage w/ a pretty white flower WARM SEASON
Mystic Illusion Dahlias: dark ‘black’ foliage w/ striking flowers
DAHLIA Mystic Enchantment (‘Another Pet’)
DAHLIA Mystic Haze (‘Dark Side of the Sun’)
DAHLIA Mystic Illusion (‘Knockout’)
DAHLIA Mystic Dreamer (‘Zone 10′)
DAHLIA Mystic Spirit (‘Best Bett’)
DAHLIA ‘Mystic Wonder’ – blackish foliage w/ yellow flowers (in my garden now) WARM SEASON
Heuchera micrantha: ‘Palace Purple’ WARM SEASON
Ipomoea batatas ‘Black Heart’ - beautiful spreading ground cover. I use it in containers too. (in my garden now)
Ajuja: “Chocolate Chip” Lovely spreading ground cover with purplish-black leaves and a beautiful spike of lavender flowers in summer.
Flowering Kale: “Osaka Red”, “Nagoya Red”
Ceanothus: “Tuxedo”
Sweet Potato Vine: “Blackie”
Purple Smoke Bush
Purple Fountain Grass
Coleus: “Dark Star”

Dark, Purplish, Spooky Colored Edibles

Pak Choi, purple
Purple Peacock Broccoli
Tomatoes: Black from Tula (Mid-season heirloom from Russia),
Japanese Black Trifele-Tomato (Late season Russian heirloom)
Black Crimson Heirloom Tomato: (Black Krim) Mid-season Russian (love this one!).
Brussel Sprouts: “Falstaff” (Very Cool!!!!)
Kale: “Redbor”, “Nero Di Toscana Kale”, “Winter Red Kale”,
Kohlrabi: “Purple Vienna”
Mustards: “Osaka Purple”, “Mizuna Purple”
Red Cabbage: “Ruby Ball”, “Ruby Perfection”
Basil: “Purple”, “Purple Ruffles”, “Red Rubin (Purple Passion)”

Other Spooky Colors – Edibles and Ornamentals

Edibles
Any Green Lettuce:“Green Oak Leaf”, “Green Buttercrunch”, “Green Romaine”
Any of the silvery green colored edibles:broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, cabbage: “Savoy – looks like a brain!”, cauliflower: “Snowball”, “Romanesco”
Chard:“Giant Fordhood Chard” (look like bones in the garden!)
Eggplant:“Casper”
Calendula: Various Varieties
Pansies: “Orange”
Peas

Ornamentals
Lysimachia: “Goldi”
Sweet Potato Vine: “Margarita”
Calocephalus: “Silver Sand”
Leonotis leonurus: “Lion’s Tail”
Coleus:“Royal Glissade”, “Kingswood Torch”, “Life Lime”, “Sedona”

Here’s a link to a great guide from Clemson University on how to plant a BAT GARDEN! Bwahaahhhaa! The Halloween Garden – A Very Gothic Thing! Extension Clemson University South Carolina

Making the Case for Heirloom/Open Pollinated Seeds Without Saying a Word…

GeriMiller — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 17:22:54 +0000

upworthy.com

Click HERE to view this infographic on its website.

Spotlight Edible of the Day: Cool Season Crops – Leeks

GeriMiller — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 07:30:34 +0000

“I would desire you to eat it…if you can mock a leek, you can eat a leek”

William Shakespeare (1564-1616) King Henry V

A beautiful and ancient monocot, the leek is, as far as I’m concerned, a necessity in any serious cool season culinary garden. Certainly, there is hardly a European garden without the gorgeous blue-green stand of leeks in winter. In the U.S., however, the leek remains under-appreciated.

From the edible landscaper’s perspective, the leek provides a productive upright, structural element that broadens our design palette with its coloration (white to blue-green to dark green and even purple). From a chef’s perspective, leeks are an integral ingredient in a production garden that provides an elegant, mild, delicate flavoring to sauces, salads, soups, and a myriad of other dishes.

Genus: Allium. Alliums (garlic, leek, onion, scallion & shallot) are a genus of plants that have provided flavorful seasoning in food for thousands of years. Onions and garlic were two of the most important crops consumed in ancient Egypt. Islamic legend has it that when Satan left the Garden of Eden after the fall of man, garlic sprang up where his left foot stepped, and onions grew where his right foot was placed.

Family: Alliaceae (subfamily Allioideae of Amaryllidaceae)

Species: Allium ampeloprasum (porrum) – which includes leeks, elephant garlic

A bit of botantical history –

The leek is a biennial onion relative that is grown as an annual for its long, thick stem, the white to pale green part of which is used as a staple in the home and professional kitchen. The modern leek is related to the wild leek of the Mediterranean and the Canary Islands, Madeira, and the Azores. While leeks have long been a staple winter vegetable of Northern Europe, they are decidedly unsung and underappreciated in the U.S. Let’s change that!

Medicinal qualities –

All of the foods in the Allium family are full of antioxidants and phytonutrients. Organic sulfuric compounds give these plants their unique piquant flavors and make them highly regenerative; the more pungent the flavor, the more powerful the health benefits. Garlic and scallions, along with onions, leeks, chives and shallots, are rich in flavonols (substances in plants that have been shown to have anti-tumor effects). New research from China confirms that eating vegetables from the allium group can reduce the risk of prostate cancer. Throughout the history of medicine, leeks have been known to clean your arteries and retard the growth of viruses, yeasts, ferments and other pathogenic organisms. They are also full of manganese, Vitamin C, and B6. They do not have the same antibacterial properties of garlic, but they do have similar cancer fighting benefits and they stabilize blood sugar much like onions. Leeks are also high in iron and folate. See the GroEdibles blog “The Pharmacy in Your Garden – The Hidden Medicinal History of Your Favorite Plants”.

Varieties:

I love leeks. These three key words from UCCE, Stanislaus County sums them up perfectly:

Stalwart—Cold tolerant, overwintering through the snows of winter unharmed.
Long—Tall; some winter varieties achieve the same dimensions as a baseball bat. In fact, leeks, unlike most vegetables, achieve full flavor and ideal texture as they size up. A full-size, mature leek eclipses a young baby leek in both categories.
Slow and steady—While many books and catalogs I have seen indicate 4–8 weeks from seeding to transplant and 50–100 days from transplanting to maturity, 10–12 weeks from seed to transplant and 90–120, or even 180 days from transplanting to harvest is the norm in my experience.

There are two basic types of leeks: summer types (long shanked—bulbless) and winter types (short shanked—slight bulbing).

Summer varieties

Summer varieties feature taller plants with light- to mid-green foliage, almost to the point of appearing nitrogen deficient. The shanks are long (8–12 inches) and self-blanching. They are “quicker” to maturation (90–100 days; all dates are from transplants) than winter types and have a lighter, slightly milder taste. Summer types are more heat tolerant and less cold hardy than winter varieties. They are generally grown spring to fall, although in mild winter areas (like parts of So. Cal.) they are overwintered.

Kilma (90 days) – Fast-growing summer leek with 10–12-inch shanks. Only tolerates slight frosts.

King Richard and Titan (90-100 days from transplant) – Virtually indistinguishable from one another. One of the earliest-maturing varieties. Long (10–12 inch) self-blanching shanks. Light green foliage. Light, sweet texture and taste. More heat tolerant than any other variety. Some cold tolerance (35˚–32˚F), but not truly winter hardy. Will deteriorate quickly with extensive winter rains.

Lincoln – Often used for baby leeks or bunching, leaves similar to King Richard.

Blue Solaize (100-120 days from transplant) – This is a beautiful French heirloom, truly blue-colored leaves that turn violet after a cold spell. Very large, 15-20″ stalks, sweet medium-long shaft, extremely hardy. Good for short-season areas and winter harvest.

Winter varieties

Winter varieties possess dark, almost blue-green foliage with shorter, squat plants. They are slower to mature (120 –180 days) and the shanks are fatter, growing 3–4 inches across, often with some basal bulbing. Even with hilling there is less blanched, succulent edible portion of the stem. They offer a richer, meatier taste and texture. Winter types feature minimal heat tolerance and excellent cold tolerance for gardeners dealing with temperatures consistently in the teens.

American Flag (130 days) — Pure white blanched stems with mild sweet flavor and good winter hardiness.

Blue De Solaise (105 days) – Old French variety with bluegreen to almost blue foliage tinged with red. Extremely cold hardy with fat, succulent shanks.

Broad London (120 days) – Very squat, short (4–6 inch) shanked, sweet, creamy-textured old variety. Some heat tolerance and moderate cold tolerance.

Giant Musselburg – Old German variety, 150 days to maturation, pure white, sweet, tender, short shank, dark green foliage.

Unfortunately, with rare exceptions, U.S. seed catalogs usually offer only one to three varieties of leeks. Northern European seed companies usually feature greater varietal diversity, types and varieties. Here are some U.S. seed companies that seem to carry the rarer leek varieties: Irish Eyes, Heirloom Seeds, Sustainable Seed Co., Cherry Gal, Seed Savers

Until the 1990s all leeks were open pollinated (OP) varieties, not proprietary F1 hybrids with corporate ownership. New methods have made hybridizing them possible, so now many seed catalogs offer both.

A word about open pollinated (OP) v. hybrid: It is, of course, a personal choice but HGEL urges its clients to use open pollinated or heirloom seeds whenever possible. There are many instances when a hybrid choice is preferred (increased vigor or disease resistance for a challenging garden site or beginner gardener). I have my own hybrid favorites but my choice is to use open pollinated (OP) as often as I can.

Open pollinated seeds are pollinated by wind or bees and their traits are somewhat fixed within an exceptable range of variability. Heirloom seeds have been passed down for many years and have been preserved and kept true. The heirloom usually yields a superior product regarding taste, color, flavor and texture; all qualities that are of paramount importance to a commercial or home edible garden grower. As long as there is no cross pollination, you can harvest the seeds for next year and expect to get similar results. Hybrids result from a deliberate cross between two inbred lines. They are becoming increasingly popular because they usually are more disease resistant and vigorous than open-pollinated varieties. Seed saved from hybrids produces many different plant types and are not true to the parent plant which may be a disappointment for gardener who has unknowingly saved and planted hybrid seed. Seeds saved from hybrids usually do not produce the desired results.

To be sure, check the package to see if it says “F1 hybrid.” F2 plants are not hybrids and lend themselves to seed saving. Most importantly, however, using open pollinated or heirloom seeds will insure the continuation of our seed source, increase sustainability and support our smaller seed companies.

Climatic Requirements:

Along with kale, leeks are the most cold-tolerant of vegetables. If established in late summer they can overwinter through the frozen ground and snow pack. In fact, the colder the temperature, the sweeter the taste. On the other end of the spectrum, they will survive, but are not at all fond of temperatures consistently above 85˚F.

Soil Requirements:

All alliums are shallow-rooted crops that tolerate a wide variety of soil textures, however, dense clay soil or rocks can hinder growth and development. Prepare most garden beds with at least 2 inches of compost mixed into the soil to create ideal conditions for alliums. A soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is optimum.

Cultural Practices:

Blanching

Hill or mound soil up around the lower parts of the stem (shank) to “blanch” or make white that portion of the shank. This produces a larger, more succulent useable area of the plant. Do this several times during the season as the plant grows taller. Doing it heavily just once tends to rot the shank.

Irrigation

When watering alliums, keep garden soil moist, but not soggy. Allow it to dry out somewhat between watering. Avoid wetting the plant when applying water in order to avoid disease and pests. If possible, irrigate with drip lines, or soaker hoses. If using overhead (sprinkler) irrigation, do it in the morning so the plants dry quickly as the day warms.

Weed control

Weed control is important. None of the alliums like competition, so remove any weeds growing in your garden bed. Weed carefully between the bulbs, as they are easily bruised. Because leeks are shallow-rooted, hand pulling is recommended in lieu of using tools. Cultivate lightly to avoid root damage. Applying organic material as mulch can provide a temporary weed barrier adding nutrients to the soil as it degrades.

Planting Requirements and Propagation

Leeks are better as transplants versus direct sowing. A transplantable seedling (10–12 weeks old, 1/4-inch stem diameter) can be raised in intensively broadcast sown flats or nursery beds. Because they are monocots with a vigorous fibrous root system and a narrow, waxy leaf surface, leek transplants can be barerooted with minimal transplant shock. Grow leeks, which can take up to five months to mature, like long-season onions.

Growing alliums from seed takes patience and persistence (c’mon – we’ve got plenty of that…we’re gardeners after all!). Germination can be a difficult proposition as seedlings grow slowly and are very sensitive to competitive weeds. Plant seeds in containers and transplant seedlings into your garden, or plant seeds directly into your garden bed. Sow seeds 1/2” deep, 1/2” apart in rows 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart. Seeds are tiny, so if you can’t space them apart, sprinkle them along the row and then thin later (if you’re like me, you do NOT like to thin!). The size you choose to harvest your leeks will determine your spacing: more space in between plants that your intend to grow to a 3-4″ diameter. In my small space gardens and combined with the fact that most of my chefs prefer their leeks at the 1-2″ diameter size, I can get away with planting mine closer together.

Fertilization

Alliums grown in compost enriched soil will not need additional fertilizer. If you wish to fertilize, use a liquid kelp or balanced fertilizer 3 weeks after planting. Stop fertilizing 6-7 weeks before harvest.

Cornell University Cooperative Extension, "Fertilizing Garden Soil"

I stress that just by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost to the soil before planting and seasonally you will increase the level of nutrients, improve soil microbial activity, and increase water-holding and nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter also improves the physical condition or texture of the soil for cultivation and improves soil structure so the surface of the soil does not crust. Any soil can be/should be improved through the addition of organic matter. As HGEL advises, cover crops are also an important, inexpensive way to add organic matter to the soil, and much of plants nitrogen needs can be met via cover cropping. Before applying amendment or fertilizer it is always a good idea to do a soil test so that you know exactly what is in or isn’t in your soil. Contact your local County Extension office for information on soil testing. Fertilizer may be either broadcast and worked into the soil before planting time or side dressed two inches to the side and three inches below the seed at the time of planting.

The Quick and Easy Guide to Organic Fertilizers – Cornell University Cooperative Extension

How to convert an Inorganic Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic (Univ. of Georgia)

Pest/Disease Control:

Pests & Disease

Leeks are virtually bulletproof when it comes to pest and disease problems.

Follow this link for some things to watch for: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/onions.html

In an organic system pest and disease management is based on prevention. The goal is to have a healthy, balanced plant and soil system in which pest populations will stay within tolerable limits. In a conventional system, synthetic pesticides may help a grower save the current crop from an immediate pest problem; however, in many cases, the problem recurs or another develops AND the cumulative effect of using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides is damaging to the environment, humans and animals. The organic approach is based on the theory that major pest problems usually occur when something is out of balance in the system. These are questions organic gardeners should ask themselves when things seem to be going wrong:

-Is there a nutrient imbalance?

-Is the soil too wet or too dry?

-Has a good crop rotation been followed?

-Is there a diversity of plants to support beneficial insects?

Studying the problem and trying to determine why it occurred should help prevent similar problems in the future. This will, of course, take time to learn and develop. Unless gardeners refuse to use any pesticides, they may at times choose to apply some organic pesticides to save a specific crop.

A Word about the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach

This is system is well-suited for organic production and one, as a Master Gardener, I always recommend. IPM is a system in which insects, diseases, and weeds are closely monitored, and different methods are used to keep pest populations at levels that are not economically damaging with minimal adverse environmental effects. IPM encompasses use of cultural and biological control methods, use of resistant varieties, and a VERY judicious use of pesticides. HGEL recommends that, in the event pesticides must be used, select ORGANIC ones with low toxicity, non-persistent residues, narrow spectrum of control, and low environmental impact.

A Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management (Cornell Univ.)

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/index.php

There are four regional IPM centers in the U.S. – North Central, Northeastern, Southern and Western.

Here is a link to a searchable database to find the IPM sites in your region:

http://www.ipmcenters.org/

Harvest/Storage:

Harvest

Leeks are ready for harvest when the bulb is 1” in diameter. Don’t look for the flags (leek leaves) to turn brown as other alliums do…they stay green. Harvesting is all about size. Most of my chefs prefer to use them on the smaller size. Certainly, in my smaller gardens, harvesting them at a smaller size makes perfect sense. Use a spading fork to loosen the ground around the leeks, then gently pull them from the garden. Leeks will last longer if left in the ground until ready for use.

Storage

Once harvested, they can be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Favorite Recipes

Home Grown Edible Landscapes » edible

Spotlight Edible of the Day: Peppers

CLIMATIC REQUIREMENTS

SOIL REQUIREMENTS

A NOTE ABOUT BUYING NURSERY TRANSPLANTS

CULTURAL PRACTICES

PEST & DISEASE CONTROL

HARVESTING AND STORAGE

And, to do the pepper justice…a recipe video on the making of the Chili Pineapple Margarita from our friends at thedrinkchef.com

REMOVING OBSTACLES TO SUCCESS IN THE GARDEN

A few words on “success” and “failure”

LACK OF KNOWLEDGE

BAD SOIL

Improving your Soil:

Adding Amendments and Using Organic Fertilizers

HGEL's M-Brace Raised beds finished at Post and Beam Restaurant, Baldwin Hills WHEN/HOW TO BUILD/USE RAISED BEDS

PEST MANAGEMENT

ONE MORE THING…$$$$

Spotlight Edible Of The Day: Cole Crops – Broccoli

Organic Pest/Disease Control -

Looking over the Four Leaf Clover!

The Cute Clover

What do the leaves mean?

What about the three-leaf clover (Shamrock)?

White clover (Trifolium repens forma minus, family Leguminosae)

Druids

Why is the clover “lucky” for gardeners?

White Clover is a very good nitrogen fixing cover crop!

It’s a great grazing crop for livestock.

It attracts bees!

It’s a tasty and nutritious wild edible!

Clover Recipes

HAPPY ST. PATRICK’S DAY!

Oh, for the Love of Citrus! Two newer varieties showing up in commercial nurseries…

Vaniglia Sanguigno citrus - Vanilla Blood Orange Vaniglia Sanguigno

Palestine Sweet Lime

Palestine Sweet Lime

Our Better Angels and How to Support Them

Together, we can do anything

A small group of thoughtful people could change the world. Indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.

Margaret Mead

There are so many ways you can help…with your time or donation. Just knowing that there are good people doing great things in your community can help inspire you. Here are just a few of HGEL’s favorite organizations:

Supporting Young Farmers

National Young Farmers Coalition: NYFC works for young farmers by strengthening their social networks, helping them hone their skills through the facilitation of peer-to-peer learning, and fighting for the policies that will keep them farming for a lifetime.

Beginning Farmers – “Beginningfarmers.org is an effort to develop a comprehensive and up to date compilation of information resources for new, experienced, and potential farmers, as well as educators, activists, and policy makers interested in the development of new farm enterprises.”

The Greenhorns: “The Greenhorns is a grassroots non-profit organization made up of young farmers and many collaborators. Our mission is to recruit, promote and support the new generation of young farmers in this ample and able 21st century America.”

End Hunger/Food Security

The Dinner Garden – “The Dinner Garden is working to end hunger in the United States through home and community gardening. We are striving to create one garden for every six Americans.”

Feeding America – “Feeding America is the nation’s leading domestic hunger-relief charity. Our mission is to feed America’s hungry through a nationwide network of member food banks and engage our country in the fight to end hunger.” http://www.emagazine.com/view/?5467

Slow Food USA – “Slow Food is an idea, a way of living and a way of eating. It is a global, grassroots movement with thousands of members around the world that links the pleasure of food with a commitment to community and the environment.”

Roots of Change – “Roots of Change was created with the intent of growing a network of diverse stakeholders united by the vision of healthy, affordable, safe, just and ecologically responsible food and agriculture in California by the year 2030.”

Food Declaration – “…serve the good food movement by collaborating with others on a declaration that could be used to spark the public’s action on national policy.”

Food Gatherers -”Food Gatherers exists to alleviate hunger and eliminate its causes in our community by: reducing food waste through the rescue and distribution of food; coordinating with other hunger relief providers; educating the public about hunger; and developing new food resources.”

Create the Good- Fight Hunger – “Create The Good is where good people get connected to opportunities to make a positive impact.”

Community Food Security Coalition – “The Community Food Security Coalition (CFSC) is a North American coalition of diverse people and organizations working from the local to international levels to build community food security.”

Community Food Advocates – “Community Food Advocates is a new organization with a rich history and a big mission: to end hunger and create a healthy, just, and sustainable food system.”

California Food and Justice Coalition -”The California Food and Justice Coalition (CFJC) is a state-wide membership coalition that promotes the basic human right to healthy, affordable food while advancing social, agricultural, environmental and economic justice.”

Toronto YOUTH Food Policy Council – “As a group of food passionate youth, we will continue to create routes of agency for our peers within Toronto municipal food policy sector and become a hub for our City’s many young people who care about the future of their food supply.”

Growing Hope – “Growing Hope grew out of the efforts of the Perry Learning Garden (PLG), originally conceived in 1999 as a single school and neighborhood garden site. Growing Hope has been empowering local communities to grow and eat healthy food.”

The Wholesome Wave Foundation – “The mission of Wholesome Wave is to nourish neighborhoods by supporting increased production and access to healthy, fresh, and affordable locally grown food for the well-being of all.”

Any Foodbank! For a national listing by zipcode, click HERE.

Community Food Security Coalition – “The Community Food Security Coalition (CFSC) is a North American coalition of diverse people and organizations working from the local to international levels to build community food security.”

Cooperative Food Empowerment Directive - “CoFed is a new Berkeley-based, national training program and research institute empowering students to create ethically-sourced, cooperatively-run sustainable food storefronts and cafés on college campuses.”

Real Food Challenge – “Uniting students for just and sustainable food.”

The Food Project - “Since 1991, The Food Project has built a national model of engaging young people in personal and social change through sustainable agriculture.”

Supporting School Gardens

California School Garden Network – “By encouraging and supporting a garden in every school, we create opportunities for our children to discover fresh food, make healthier food choices, and become better nourished.”

Supporting Organics, Locavore, Sustainable, Food Safety & Policy

Organic Seed Alliance – “Seed is the foundation of our organic food system. Organic Seed Alliance (OSA) works nationally with farmers like Nash, as well as researchers, independent seed companies, and organic advocates, to create healthy, community-based seed systems.”

ATTRA – National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service: ” Your source for the latest in sustainable agriculture and organic farming news, publications and resource materials.”

Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York – “NOFA NY, Inc is an organization of consumers, gardeners, and farmers working together to create a sustainable regional food system which is ecologically sound and economically viable.”

Cornucopia Institute – “Seeking economic justice for the family-scale farming community. Through research, advocacy, and economic development our goal is to empower farmers – partnered with consumers – in support of ecologically produced local, organic and authentic food.”

Chef’s Collaborative – “Chefs collaborative is a national chef network that’s changing the sustainable food landscape using the power of connections, education and responsible buying decisions.”

Greener Partners – ”Greener Partners is contributing to the resurgence of farming activity within the Greater Philadelphia region. By reestablishing sustainable, organic farming operations, Greener Partners is impacting the way people think about their food and the environment.”

Animal/Environmental Welfare

To find a farm animal shelter in your state, click HERE.

Nature Conservancy – “The Nature Conservancy is the leading conservation organization working around the world to protect ecologically important lands and waters for nature and people.”

Grist.org – “Grist has been dishing out environmental news and commentary with a wry twist since 1999 — which, to be frank, was way before most people cared about such things.”

A Thank You Note to HGEL Friends New and Old…

Times are hard everywhere, for everyone.

HGEL's M-Brace Raised beds finished at Post and Beam Restaurant, Baldwin Hills

WHEN/HOW TO BUILD/USE RAISED BEDS

Vaniglia Sanguigno citrus - Vanilla Blood Orange

Vaniglia Sanguigno

A small group of thoughtful people could change the world.
Indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.

With great gratitude,
Geri Miller